[AKyung Wine Cellar] Bordeaux's Treasure 'Lafite'... The Ultimate 'Balance' Transcending Time

<14> France's 'Domaine Barons de Rothschild Lafite'

Six Generations of Family Management Since Acquisition by the Rothschild Family in 1868
Distinguished Elegance Among Bordeaux's "Five Great Chateaux"
Anseiang, Lafite's Gift Presented After 100 Years

Editor's NoteThere is no wine under the sky that is the same. Even when using grapes grown on the same land every year and employing the same methods of brewing and aging, the results differ each time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are brewed and matured according to their unique circumstances.

"People say that the location of the Lafite vineyards is one of the most beautiful places in M?doc. I wanted to see it with my own eyes. So I came here, and in the end, I saw it. I love what I saw."

In September 1868, Baron James Mayer de Rothschild, who established the French branch of the Jewish financial dynasty Rothschild, left Paris and headed to Bordeaux. It was a long journey for his seventy-six-year-old body, but he was more excited than ever. The Bordeaux M?doc winery 'Chateau Lafite' he had purchased a month earlier was waiting for him. Changing from carriage to steamboat, the Lafite he reached did not disappoint him. He was captivated and wrote that he loved what he saw. Three months after the long-awaited first meeting with Lafite, he passed away.

Front view of 'Chateau Lafite Rothschild'.

Rothschild Seizes Bordeaux's Treasure 'Lafite'

After James acquired it, the name Chateau Lafite was appended with his surname Rothschild, becoming the familiar name 'Chateau Lafite Rothschild.' The Lafite he longed for until his last moments was already a winery boasting high reputation throughout France before his purchase. The name Lafite derives from 'la hite,' a Gascon dialect term in southern France meaning 'small hill,' and records show that vineyards were established here producing wine since 1234.

Lafite's wine began to gain prominence in the early 18th century when Nicolas Alexandre, Marquis de S?gur, the then owner, improved winemaking techniques. Lafite's wines frequently graced the table of Louis XV, earning the title 'Wine of Kings,' and were introduced to high society, gaining international fame. A notable overseas customer was Thomas Jefferson, the third President of the United States. A wine enthusiast, Jefferson personally visited Chateau Lafite in 1784 to purchase wine and remained a lifelong customer.

Baron James Mayer de Rothschild (left) and the coat of arms of 'Domains Barons de Rothschild Lafite'.

Although Lafite had long maintained a high reputation, the most decisive event establishing its current absolute status was the Bordeaux Grand Cru classification system established in 1855. Officially called 'Grand Cru Class? en 1855,' this classification was created in conjunction with the Paris World's Fair sponsored by Emperor Napoleon III. The emperor requested the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce to classify wines from the M?doc region, Bordeaux's premier production area, to promote French wines at the fair. Based on quality, reputation, sales price, and records, 61 chateaux were selected and classified into five Grand Cru classes from first to fifth.

At this time, Chateau Lafite Rothschild and three other wineries were included in the first class, and except for Chateau Mouton Rothschild's promotion from second to first class in 1973, the classification has remained unchanged for 170 years. Classifying wines into five ranks was revolutionary at the time, and the intuitive numerical criteria greatly contributed to the international recognition and fame of Bordeaux wines.

Of course, debates continue about how accurately the 1855 classification reflects current wine quality, but the system still holds immense influence. The five wineries, including Lafite, have been called the 'Five First Growths' and have maintained their solid status as representatives of Bordeaux wineries.

Front view of 'Chateau Lafite Rothschild'.

"The Premier of the Premiers" Lafite... Bordeaux's Pride Stands Tall

Chateau Lafite Rothschild is regarded as the most prestigious winery among the first growth chateaux, so much so that Napoleon III called it the 'Premier des Premiers' (First of the First). The best word to describe Lafite is 'balance.' A wine that is powerful without being overwhelming, intense yet retaining elegance and freshness?this exquisite balance culminates in elegance, sustaining Bordeaux's pride for centuries. Lafite itself describes its wine as "consistently strong yet delicate and subtle," promising to maintain today's delicacy and subtlety unchanged even after a thousand years amid the capriciousness of nature that shows different faces every year.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild is rooted in the village of Pauillac in the Bordeaux M?doc region. Pauillac is located on the left bank of the Gironde estuary, about 40 km north of Bordeaux city. Thanks to the mildness of the estuary and the diverse soils originating from the Pyrenees, Pauillac boasts excellent climate and geological conditions for producing outstanding wines.

Lafite's vineyards have excellent drainage and optimal sunlight. The clay-gravel soil has excellent moisture regulation capabilities and provides ideal aging conditions for the main grape variety, Cabernet Sauvignon. Besides Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc are also cultivated, contributing to a balanced blend.

'Grand Vin Chateau Lafite Rothschild'

Lafite's wines undergo extremely precise winemaking. The top wine, 'Grand Vin Chateau Lafite Rothschild,' uses only grapes harvested from vines over ten years old. Depending on the characteristics and ripeness of the cultivated plots, grapes are fermented separately in oak, stainless steel, and concrete tanks. The grapes undergo maceration for about three weeks, and fermentation proceeds at 18°C for 15 days. Among the first wines produced, only the highest quality wines are selected for blending, followed by aging for 15 months in new French oak barrels to complete the final product.

While there is no dispute that Chateau Lafite Rothschild is the core winery and wine at the pinnacle of Lafite, Lafite is not limited to Chateau Lafite Rothschild alone. The Rothschild family created the Lafite Collection (DBR Lafite Collection) to inherit the meaning of high-end wines befitting Bordeaux's top winery reputation, expanding both wineries and wines. This collection forms a kind of holding company called 'Domains Barons de Rothschild Lafite (DBR).'

The winery of 'Domains Barons de Rothschild Lafite (DBR)'.

DBR currently operates ten wineries under its umbrella, including Chateau Lafite Rothschild. The first milestone was the acquisition of 'Chateau Duhart-Milon' in the same Pauillac region in 1962. Subsequently, in 1984, they acquired 'Chateau Rieussec,' a first growth in Sauternes, and 'Chateau Paradis Casseuil' in Entre-Deux-Mers; in 1990, 'Chateau L'Evangile' in Pomerol; and in 1999, 'Domaine d'Aussieres' in Languedoc.

They then expanded overseas, acquiring 'Vina Los Vascos' in Chile's Colchagua Valley, 'Bodegas Caro' in Mendoza, Argentina, and 'Domaine de Long Dai' in China. Recently, they also added the prestigious Burgundy Chablis estate 'Domaine William Fevre,' solidifying their status as one of the world's top wine producers.

Anseillan, Lafite's First New Release in 100 Years

'Anseillan du Chateau Lafite Rothschild'

The Rothschild family has continued the wine business for six generations since acquiring Lafite in 1868. Currently, Saskia de Rothschild has been managing the winery as the sixth owner since 2018, succeeding her father. Since Saskia took over, DBR has been undergoing changes.

The release of 'Anseillan du Chateau Lafite Rothschild,' known simply as 'Anseillan,' is a representative example. Anseillan is the first new wine introduced by Chateau Lafite Rothschild in 100 years, which previously only offered two wines: the main wine Grand Vin Chateau Lafite Rothschild and the second wine 'Carruades de Lafite.' The first vintage of Anseillan, 2018, also marked the 150th anniversary of the Rothschild family's acquisition of Lafite.

A view of the wine cellar of 'Chateau Lafite Rothschild'.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild is priced high due to its reputation, making it difficult to access easily. Anseillan is the third wine from Chateau Lafite Rothschild, aiming to offer a wine at a reasonable price while preserving Lafite's elegant character. Anseillan utilizes Lafite's winemaking techniques and resources to express the character of Lafite and Pauillac more directly and simply. The vineyards for Anseillan have a higher clay content than those used for the Grand Vin, and unlike the Cabernet Sauvignon-centered Grand Vin, Merlot, which thrives in clay soils, is the main grape. For the 2020 vintage, the blend was 63% Merlot and 37% Cabernet Sauvignon. Kim Sung-guk, DBR's brand ambassador and sommelier, explained, "Anseillan is another persona of Lafite, focusing on expressing Lafite more clearly and simply."

Besides expanding the lineup, efforts toward sustainability are also prominently emphasized. Saskia considers listening to and protecting nature her mission and cultivates grapes organically in all vineyards. Through these changes, all DBR wines have obtained 'B-Corp (Benefit Corporation)' certification. B-Corp is a global certification system operated by the U.S. nonprofit 'B Lab,' targeting companies that pursue both profit and social value creation. The certification evaluates corporate performance in five areas: environment, employees, customers, community, and governance. It serves as a new standard for judging good companies beyond simple financial performance or one-time social contribution activities.

The underground cellar of 'Chateau Lafite Rothschild'.

Sommelier Kim Sung-guk recalled, "Before 2018, Lafite's vineyards were so meticulously managed that all vines had the same shape and the same number of grape clusters." However, since Saskia took over as owner, the vineyard's appearance has completely changed. Kim explained, "Now, wildflowers and weeds are left as they are in the vineyards to preserve biodiversity," adding, "This philosophy is shared across all DBR wineries, not just Chateau Lafite Rothschild."

Expanding beyond Bordeaux to France and worldwide, DBR continuously reviews and adapts its cultivation and winemaking practices to the times wherever they operate, maintaining their identity of elegant balance. This is because they cherish the ultimate balance they have cultivated as a result of embracing constant change through capricious seasons over more than a century, painstakingly building it layer by layer.

Vineyard view of 'Chateau Lafite Rothschild'.

This content was produced with the assistance of AI translation services.