The Brand Coveted by China... Who Created "MUJI"? [Japan Inside]

CEO and Author Seiji Tsutsumi
Minimizing Waste in Materials and Processes, Focusing on Function
Born from Concerns Over Bubble-Era Consumer Culture

When I have some spare time before an appointment or feel like refreshing my home with something new as the seasons change, I occasionally browse MUJI. Sometimes, I discover clever products that make me wonder, "Did they always have this?" The image that comes to mind with MUJI is always one of simplicity and minimal packaging.

This week in Japan, there has been a lot of talk about MUJI. The brand became embroiled in a trademark battle in China and ultimately lost the case. Before MUJI entered the Japanese market, a Chinese company launched a similar brand called "MUJI Natural Mill" in China. When the original MUJI announced its entry into China, the Chinese company filed a lawsuit, claiming the brands were too similar and requesting that MUJI be barred from using its trademark. News that the original MUJI failed to secure the rights to its own trademark in China caused quite a stir in Japan as well.

So, how did MUJI become such a renowned brand that others would covet it from afar? Today, let me share the story of the late Seiji Tsutsumi, the founder of MUJI in Japan.

Tsutsumi was born in Japan in 1927 and passed away in 2013. His father, Yasujiro Tsutsumi, was the founder of what is now the Seibu Group, which owned Seibu Department Store and more. Because Seiji was not born to the main wife, he experienced family discord from a young age. Against this backdrop, he entered the University of Tokyo, joined the Japanese Communist Party, and actively pursued a career as a writer under a pen name. As a result, many of his novels explore themes of conflict and understanding between fathers and sons.

Tsutsumi was continually pushed aside in the Seibu Group’s succession struggle. After his father, the previous chairman, passed away, the leadership of the Seibu Group went to his half-brother. Some say his political activities as a student worked against him, and Tsutsumi himself was not the type to overturn the family order. It was during this period that he published his first novel, "In the Season of Wandering." Rather than focusing on business, he delved deeper into his identity as a writer during this time.

Nonetheless, Tsutsumi inherited the distribution division of the Seibu Group when his father died. He joined Seibu Department Store and became involved in managing this sector. He even visited the home of the chairman of Hankyu Department Store to learn the ins and outs of distribution management. At the same time, he published poetry collections, straddling the line between business executive and artist.

The time had come for MUJI to emerge. It was 1980, when Japan was entering an economic boom. Tsutsumi also managed Seiyu Mart, the distribution arm, and began releasing private brand (PB) products at Seiyu. In fact, Japanese retailers had started developing PB products as early as the 1960s. In 1975, Seiyu launched kelp and canned goods for cooking, which generated higher-than-expected sales. This success led Seiyu to strategize expanding its PB product lineup.

PB products released at Seiyu Mart at that time. Yangpum Plan homepage.

They took into account the opinions of their main customers, housewives, and one question stood out: "Why do you sell whole mushrooms, but when it comes to sliced mushrooms, you cut off the ends to make them look neat?" The question was essentially: Why add unnecessary processing steps and waste ingredients? Based on this feedback, Tsutsumi established three guiding principles: do not waste materials during product development, avoid unnecessary processing that leads to extra costs, and consider whether a feature is truly needed by the user. The concept was to supply practical products at low cost, which became MUJI's initial philosophy: "There is a reason, so it's cheap (Wake atte, yasui)."

This philosophy closely aligned with Tsutsumi's own beliefs. He was concerned about the consumer culture of the 1980s bubble era. He was especially influenced by philosopher Jean Baudrillard's book, "The System of Objects." Tsutsumi is known for saying, "No matter how affluent life becomes, we must not forget our humanity. If we only pursue material abundance, life becomes trivial." Watching the bubble era, when products with little intrinsic value gained popularity solely due to brand names, inspired him to create MUJI, a brand that deliberately pursued "no brand." The "MU" in "MUJI" (MUJIRYOHIN) means "no mark" or "no brand." In Japan, MUJI is often called "Mujirushi," taking the first two characters of its name.

A promotional poster for MUJI's canned salmon. It introduces the phrase "Salmon is salmon all over (Shake wa zenshin shake nanda)." From the MUJI Keikaku website.

MUJI then began to promote this "no waste" concept with striking clarity. The most iconic advertisement featured the slogan, "Salmon is salmon all over (Shake wa zenshin shake nanda)." At the time, other brands sold canned salmon using only the belly portion, cut into neat circles. However, during the development of MUJI's PB canned salmon, a Seiyu staff member remarked, "Every part of the salmon, from head to tail, is delicious, but it's hard to enjoy the whole fish from a can." Based on this, they released a canned salmon product using the entire fish, including the head and tail. By utilizing every part except the belly, they could offer a tastier product at a lower price.

In 1981, MUJI introduced baby clothes with the slogan, "Love does not embellish (Ai wa kazaranai)," appealing to parents' desire to give their children something pure and simple. These slogans cut straight to the core. As Japan entered a prolonged economic slump after the bubble burst, these functional and affordable products gained attention, allowing MUJI to maintain steady sales even during tough times.

Looking at MUJI's story, it seems clear that what endures is what gets to the essence. However, Tsutsumi later overextended himself by expanding into real estate, leisure, and other subsidiaries, eventually falling into debt. In 2000, in his seventies, he stepped down from business management.

After Tsutsumi's death in 2013, those who worked with him recalled that he always felt slightly out of place in the world. Though he wanted to be a creator of novels and poetry, he was also compelled to fulfill the role of a successful businessman. He once told close friends, after meeting with people in the business world, "Everyone else is wearing dress pants, but I feel like I'm the only one in shorts." Having such an antithesis as a business leader must have brought a refreshing change to the market.