[Akyung Wine Cellar] The Wine Loved by Romans... Restoring the Ashen 'Pompei' After 2,000 Years

The 'Grape Archaeologist' Who Revived Ancient Wine
Nobility Forged by Volcanoes... 'Fiano' and 'Greco'
Pride of Southern Italy's Indigenous Varieties: 'Taurasi'

Editor's NoteNo two wines are ever truly the same under the sky. Even when grapes are grown on the same land and vinified and aged in the same way every year, the result is always different. Wine is a 'serendipitous drink' born from the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine, fading away in silence after leaving behind a single, intense memory, carries its own fascinating story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' brings you these unique stories of wines, each crafted and matured under different circumstances.

Ceiling mural of the Mastroberardino wine cellar.

The wine most cherished by the Romans came from 'Campania Felix,' meaning 'fertile land.' This region, where ancient Greeks once crossed the sea to establish the new city of 'Neapolis,' has continued to bear the name 'Campania' and has become the heart of southern Italy. Neapolis has grown into 'Napoli,' the largest city in the Campania region.

While Napoli developed into the largest city in southern Italy, the city on the opposite side of Mount Vesuvio remained frozen in time, preserving memories of the past for 2,000 years in the Roman era. This place is 'Pompei,' where time stopped when Mount Vesuvio erupted on August 24, 79 AD, burying the city in volcanic ash. Once a flourishing resort for Roman aristocrats, Pompei was also a center for wine production and commerce. However, the volcanic eruption reduced it to ashes in just one day, erasing it from history for centuries.

Wine bar excavated in Pompei.

In 1996, the Italian government launched a project to restore the wine once beloved by Romans in the time-frozen city of Pompei. 'Villa dei Misteri,' meaning 'Villa of Mysteries,' aimed to recreate the region's vineyards, grape varieties, cultivation techniques, and winemaking methods as they existed before the eruption. The restoration team analyzed soil traces on vine roots and DNA from grape seeds found in volcanic ash, revealing that the ancient wine was made from the 'Piedirosso' and 'Sciascinoso' varieties. Using the same methods as 2,000 years ago, they cultivated and vinified grapes, releasing the 'Villa dei Misteri 2001' wine in 2003. Most of this wine was sold at auction, with proceeds used to fund research for wine regions in Campania, including Pompei.

The 'Grape Archaeologist' Who Revived Ancient Wine

The Villa dei Misteri project, which unlocked the secrets of ancient Italian wine, owed much to the winery 'Mastroberardino.' The Mastroberardino family has been involved in wine production in Campania for centuries. The modern history of the winery began in 1878, when Angelo Mastroberardino, a knight of the Kingdom of Italy, officially registered the winery with the Avellino Chamber of Commerce.

Angelo's son Michele then focused on wine exports, centering on a logistics company established in Rome. His son Antonio became renowned as a 'grape archaeologist,' reviving numerous ancient varieties and leading the Pompei project.

(From the left) Angelo Mastroberardino, founder of Mastroberardino, and his son Michele Mastroberardino.

Currently, Piero Mastroberardino leads the winery, succeeding his father Antonio. Since taking over as CEO in 1996, Piero has expanded the vineyards to 260 hectares, invested in modern production facilities, achieved an annual output of over 2 million bottles, and exports to 50 countries.

Since 2015, he has served as president of 'Istituto Grandi Marchi,' the Italian premium wine consortium. Founded in 2004, Istituto Grandi Marchi is an association of prestigious Italian wine families, including 'Antinori,' 'Masi,' 'Tenuta San Guido,' 'Donnafugata,' and 'Michele Chiarlo.' This May, he was awarded the 'Cavaliere del Lavoro,' a knighthood given to 25 entrepreneurs who have made significant contributions to Italy's economy and industry, following in his father's footsteps.

The current owner of Mastroberardino, Piero Mastroberardino.

Nobility Forged by Volcanoes... 'Fiano' and 'Greco'

Campania has hot, dry summers and mild winters, resulting in a long grape-growing season. Its volcanic soils are excellent for preventing pests and diseases such as phylloxera. Breezes from the Mediterranean blow across the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennino mountains, cooling the region and helping to enhance the grapes' acidity. The inland Irpinia area, located at altitudes of 400 to 700 meters, experiences large temperature swings between day and night, which is key to developing the grapes' acidity and complex aromas.

Irpinia, a wine-producing area in the eastern inland part of Avellino in Campania, is home to the region's three major DOCGs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita). DOCG is a designation granted by the Italian government to wines produced in outstanding regions, with strict regulations on permitted grape varieties, cultivation, and winemaking methods. Mastroberardino's history also began with the establishment of its first winery in the village of Atripalda, in the heart of Avellino.

The representative green grape variety of Mastroberardino, 'Fiano'.

Until the 20th century, Campania relied so heavily on Mastroberardino that the winery produced more than half of the region's DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) wines and over 90% of Taurasi DOCG wines. However, from the late 20th century, modernization and focused investment in vineyard management, harvesting methods, and winemaking techniques significantly improved wine quality, leading to overall industry growth. Today, there are more than 100 wineries in the region.

Both red and white wines are produced in Campania, but the white wines 'Fiano di Avellino DOCG' and 'Greco di Tufo DOCG' are particularly outstanding. Made from the 'Fiano' and 'Greco' grape varieties respectively, these DOCG wines benefit from the region's hilly terrain, which allows grapes to be grown at high altitudes in a cool climate, resulting in wines with excellent acidity.

Panoramic view of Mastroberardino's 'Fiano di Avellino DOCG' vineyard.

Among these, Fiano di Avellino is a white wine produced on the high hills surrounding the village of Avellino, west of Taurasi. Traditionally, the Fiano grape is known for reaching very high sugar levels, making temperature control during alcoholic fermentation difficult. As a result, the wine used to contain residual carbon dioxide, but Mastroberardino was the first to produce it as a dry wine, leading the modernization of the variety. Fiano di Avellino is characterized by its rich mineral character, thanks to volcanic soils, and its aromas of nuts and ripe fruit.

'Radici Fiano di Avellino DOCG' is a 100% Fiano wine produced from the single vineyard 'Santo Stefano del Sole,' selected after extensive research into the terroir best suited to the Fiano variety among Mastroberardino's vineyards. This wine is recognized as the driving force behind Fiano's reputation as Campania's noble white wine. Made without oak aging, it showcases the pure character of the Fiano grape, with excellent acidity and a soft, full-bodied texture. It also boasts impressive aging potential, lasting 10 to 20 years or more.

Greco di Tufo is a small DOCG located just above Fiano di Avellino, producing white wines with deep mineral notes, thanks to apple peel aromas and volcanic tuff soils. 'Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo DOCG' is a fresh, well-structured wine that exemplifies the Greco variety. The clay-limestone and volcanic soils of the village of Tufo impart minerality to the wine, with notes of yellow fruit, minerals, and almonds, making it a versatile wine that pairs well with a variety of foods.

'Radici Fiano di Avellino DOCG'

Pride of Southern Italy's Indigenous Varieties: 'Taurasi'

While both Fiano and Greco demonstrate the high quality of Campania wines, the region's signature and most prestigious grape is the indigenous red variety 'Aglianico.' Aglianico forms the foundation of Taurasi, one of southern Italy's most famous red wine DOCGs. It has an earthy hue and offers aromas and flavors of chocolate, leather, and tar with a fantastically bitter edge. It is also the basis for the longest-aging wines in southern Italy.

Taurasi, where the finest Aglianico is produced, is the heart of Mastroberardino. Until the early 1990s, Mastroberardino was the only producer exporting Taurasi wines abroad. Aglianico thrives at high altitudes, and Taurasi's vineyards are usually located at elevations of 300 to 400 meters or higher. During his recent visit to Korea, Piero Mastroberardino said, "Mastroberardino's Taurasi vineyards, located at an altitude of 700 meters, allow for a longer aging period than other vineyards." He added, "Even with recent climate change causing earlier harvests overall, we still harvest in November." He emphasized, "This results in high tannins and excellent structure, giving the wine outstanding aging potential."

Mastroberardino's 대표 red grape variety 'Aglianico'

Under DOCG regulations, Taurasi must contain at least 85% Aglianico, with a minimum legal alcohol content of 12%. It must be aged for at least 36 months, including at least 12 months in oak barrels. For Taurasi Riserva, the minimum alcohol content is higher at 12.5%, and the minimum aging period is 48 months, including 18 months in oak barrels.

While other wineries in Campania have turned their attention to international grape varieties, Mastroberardino has maintained relentless research and passion for indigenous varieties. The pinnacle of this dedication is the 'Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi DOCG Riserva.' 'Radici' means 'roots,' symbolizing Mastroberardino's deep commitment to preserving and reviving the Aglianico grape, the root of Campania.

Radici Taurasi Riserva is made from 100% Aglianico, carefully selected from the highest-altitude plots of the Montemarano vineyard, which features clay soils with limestone. The wine displays a dark ruby color with garnet highlights and offers impressive aromas of red cherry, black pepper, balsamic, dried herbs, licorice, leather, and smoke. With exceptional complexity, a long finish, and great aging potential, it is the iconic wine of both Taurasi and Mastroberardino.

Icon wine 'Mastroberardino Radici Taurasi DOCG Riserva'.