[Akyung Wine Cellar] A Mouthful of Fresh 'Wildness'... The Essence of Sauvignon Blanc

Family-Owned Winery 'Domaine Henri Bourgeois' in Sancerre, Loire Valley
The Essence of French Sauvignon Blanc Overflowing with Minerality
'Clos Henri': The Bourgeois Family's New Zealand Project

Editor's NoteNo two wines are ever the same under the sky. Even when grapes grown on the same land are vinified and aged in the same way each year, the results are always different. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine, disappearing silently after leaving only a single vivid memory, carries its own fascinating story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' brings you the unique stories of wines, each crafted and matured under different circumstances.

A panoramic view of the village of Chavignol in the Loire Valley, France, where Henri Bourgeois is established.

'Sauvignon Blanc' is one of the most renowned grape varieties in the world. The name Sauvignon Blanc comes from the French word 'sauvage,' meaning 'wild,' and the wild, untamed aroma of Sauvignon Blanc is a major factor in its current popularity and recognition.

Sauvignon Blanc originated in Bordeaux, France, and as Bordeaux varieties gained popularity in the 19th century, it began to spread worldwide. In particular, the New Zealand wine industry enthusiastically embraced Sauvignon Blanc in the 1970s, rapidly expanding its cultivation. The region's distinctive crisp acidity and herbaceous character made New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wines widely popular and highly recognizable.

Henri Bourgeois' main grape variety 'Sauvignon Blanc'

However, the fresh grassy aroma is only one facet of Sauvignon Blanc's diverse wildness. While the hallmark of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is its grassy note, French Sauvignon Blanc from its homeland is characterized by 'minerality.' In wine, minerality is a complex and ambiguous concept that is difficult to define in a single word. Some interpret it as the result of mineral ions from the soil being absorbed by the grapes and influencing the wine's flavor, while others see it as the impact of the unique geology and soil of the vineyard on the wine's taste profile. Most commonly, minerality is understood as the lively, vibrant sensation of stone or minerals perceived in the wine.

The French unanimously agree that Sancerre in the Loire Valley is the premier region for Sauvignon Blanc brimming with minerality. Sancerre's Sauvignon Blanc is a wine true to its wild etymology, with a tingling sharpness and stony firmness. It is pure, razor-sharp, precise, and intense, leaving no room for error.

Henri Bourgeois, Maestro of Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc

Jean-Marie Bourgeois, owner of Henri Bourgeois, visited Korea and is introducing the winery.

'Domaine Henri Bourgeois' is an essential name when discussing leading producers in Sancerre. For ten generations, the Bourgeois family has been making wine in harmony with nature in the village of Chavignol, at the heart of Sancerre, driven by a deep affection for the land and a spirit of challenge. Capturing the unique character of each soil and expressing nature's story in a bottle like a work of art?and a strong sense of responsibility to share the region's unique terroir with the world?are the core winemaking philosophies that have been passed down through generations of the Bourgeois family.

The family's reputation today owes much to Henri Bourgeois, the eighth-generation descendant. In the 1950s, he began focusing on terroir-driven wine production from a small 1.5-hectare vineyard on the hills of Chavignol. The unprecedented quality of his wines quickly spread by word of mouth. In the 1960s, his son and current owner, Jean-Marie Bourgeois, joined him, expanding the vineyards into Sancerre and neighboring Pouilly-Fume. Today, with 72 hectares under cultivation, the family continues to focus on expressing the purest essence of the terroir.

A panoramic view of La Cte des Monts Damns, considered one of the best vineyards in Sancerre.

Henri Bourgeois's vision for grape growing and winemaking is defined by relentless pursuit of perfect precision. During his recent visit to Korea, Jean-Marie Bourgeois emphasized, "Just as a goldsmith crafts with meticulous care, we pay close attention to every detail in the vineyard and the cellar. The sum of these small details at every stage of a wine's life is what creates the craftsmanship of Henri Bourgeois."

The Unique Character of Soil Captured in a Single Bottle

Since minerality is a characteristic derived from the soil, understanding terroir is essential to appreciating both Sancerre and Henri Bourgeois. The Loire is considered France's most diverse wine region, stretching along the Loire River. The river begins in the volcanic craters of the Massif Central in central France, flows north for about 480 km, then turns west for another 480 km before joining the Atlantic Ocean. Nearly 500 km of the river's east-west course is lined with the Loire's top wine regions, with Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume located at the easternmost edge.

Map of Loire Valley. Henri Bourgeois is located in Sancerre, Centre region in the east.

Facing each other across the Loire River, these two regions experience a pronounced continental climate with cold winters and hot summers. The area's exceptional wines are rooted in its diverse soils, which are mainly classified as 'Lime Stone,' 'Kimmeridgian Marl,' and 'Silex.' Around the village of Chavignol, Kimmeridgian Marl formed during the Jurassic period produces wines with rich directionality and power. This soil, containing traces of seashells, imparts intense tropical fruit flavors and excellent structure.

Soil of Saint-Cyr and Pouilly-Fume. (From left) 'Clay Limestone', 'Kimmeridgian Marl', and 'Silex'

Closer to the center of Sancerre, soils mixed with limestone and gravel yield delicate wines with brilliant aromatics, while the central area, with a higher proportion of Silex, produces long-aging wines with mineral aromas and flavors. Generally, wines from limestone soils are fresh and fruit-forward, while those from Silex-based soils are known for their elegant smokiness and refined mineral character.

Pouilly-Fume's soils are also composed of Silex (flint), limestone, and Kimmeridgian Marl. Compared to Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume has a higher proportion of Silex, and the prevailing theory is that the name 'Fume' (meaning 'smoky') comes from the smoky aromas and flavors imparted by these soils. Meanwhile, Pouilly is said to be named after Paulus, a Roman general who once resided in the area.

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, facing each other across the Loire River.

Wines born from the fresh terroir along the Loire River all offer a rich sense of minerality. Sauvignon Blanc grown on the limestone and clay hillsides along both banks of the Loire produces wines of delicacy and complexity unmatched anywhere else in the world. Both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume produce high-quality wines, making it difficult for non-experts to distinguish between them. Generally, Sancerre is considered a more robust style with fuller body and pronounced flavors, while Pouilly-Fume is noted for its richer aromatics.

'Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Baronnes'

Henri Bourgeois, with its 72 hectares of vineyards spread like a mosaic, showcases the diverse nuances and layers of flavor found in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume wines. Its flagship wine is 'Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Les Baronnes.' Les Baronnes exemplifies the typical elegance of Sancerre terroir and the crispness unique to Sauvignon Blanc, achieving a delicate harmony. To preserve the pure beauty of white wine, it is fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks and aged on lees for 5 to 6 months before bottling. The nose is filled with citrus fruit aromas, followed by a rounded, radiant palate with hints of eucalyptus. The finish is marked by the region's signature freshness and pronounced minerality. Jean-Marie Bourgeois described it as "the perfect choice if you're looking for a wine to enhance the pleasure before a formal meal."

'Henri Bourgeois Pouilly Fume' is the flagship of Pouilly-Fume. The clay and limestone soils impart the distinctive minerality of Pouilly-Fume. Like Sancerre, it is aged at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks, developing intense and delicate aromas, and matured on lees for 5 to 6 months before bottling. The wine offers fresh floral notes, ripe citrus, kiwi, and eucalyptus aromas, with the region's characteristic flinty note lingering on the palate.

'Henri Bourgeois Pouilly Fume'

'Clos Henri': Henri Bourgeois's New World Terroir Project

In the 21st century, Henri Bourgeois turned its attention to New Zealand, a land blessed with pristine nature. Building on their experience in France, they aimed to produce Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines?varieties in which they excel?in a new terroir. In 2002, they purchased 99 hectares of former sheep pasture in the Wairau Valley, Marlborough, opening 'Clos Henri.'

Jean-Marie Bourgeois explained, "The hillside plot acquired by Henri Bourgeois has perfectly balanced organic matter in the soil, so chronic problems like fungal diseases do not occur, and no chemical interventions are needed during cultivation. Based on our experience in France, we determined that the soils of gravel, alluvium, and clay could express the great potential of these two varieties, which is why we established ourselves here."

'Clos Henri Waimaunga Single Vineyard Pinot Noir'

'Clos Henri Waimaunga Single Vineyard Pinot Noir' is the flagship Pinot Noir of Clos Henri, made from 100% Pinot Noir. Waimaunga is a terroir that expresses the delicacy of Pinot Noir grown in clay soils. Following French tradition, very high planting density is maintained to produce concentrated and powerful fruit.

Twenty percent of the grapes are fermented as whole clusters, while the rest are destemmed and left uncrushed, allowing for natural extraction by gravity. Fermentation and pre-fermentation maceration last up to three weeks, and the wine is aged for 12 months in 100% French oak barrels. The wine opens with intense notes of ripe plum and spice. Cherry and boysenberry notes blend with tannins to create excellent structure. The complex, lingering finish, highlighted by the terroir's minerality, is especially impressive, and the wine pairs well with foods that have strong aromas, such as aged hard cheeses.

A view of Henri Bourgeois's winery located in Chavignol.