[AKyung Wine Cellar] The Origin of New World Sparkling Wine... A Symbol of US-China Friendship

<16> USA 'Schramsberg'

The First American Producer of Champagne-Method Sparkling Wine
A Symbol of US-China Relations Normalization During the Cold War
The Undisputed Top Sparkling Wine in the USA

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when grapes grown on the same land each year are vinified and aged using the same methods, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are crafted and matured under different circumstances.

Wine from Schramsberg.

At 7 a.m. on February 21, 1972, U.S. President Richard Nixon boarded a plane departing from Guam. After a four-hour flight, he set foot in Shanghai, China. Nixon was the first U.S. president to visit China. During an eight-day tour of Beijing, Hangzhou, and Shanghai, he held several meetings with Communist Party Chairman Mao Zedong (毛澤東) and others. Subsequently, the two governments signed the 'Shanghai Communique,' which laid the foundation for bilateral relations, ending hostility and declaring normalization of relations.

At the time, Nixon's visit to China was regarded as a turning point that dramatically changed the history of U.S.-China relations during the Cold War era. Particularly notable was that Nixon, known as a staunch anti-communist, met with leaders of the communist bloc and sought to improve relations, which caused a significant stir. Since then, the phrase "Nixon goes to China" has become an idiomatic expression referring to a political leader attempting to improve relations with a long-standing adversary.

U.S. President Richard Nixon and Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai enjoying a dinner in 1972.

At the final dinner with Premier Zhou Enlai (周恩?), who concluded Nixon's visit to China, Nixon raised a toast with his country's sparkling wine to celebrate the achievements. The wine in the glass was the 1969 vintage of 'Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs' from the Calistoga region in Napa Valley, California. Known as the "Toast to Peace," Schramsberg's wine has since been frequently used at White House state dinners by every president up to the 46th, Joe Biden, becoming a representative American sparkling wine brand.

At the time, Schramsberg was a relatively unknown winery in the U.S., which attracted attention. The influential American daily, The Washington Post, covered Nixon's choice of Schramsberg for the dinner in an article titled "Champagne Treat." The Post reported that Schramsberg produced only about 5,000 bottles annually, making it a rare wine. To use it at the White House dinner, 180 bottles worth $1,300 were purchased and airlifted from the West Coast to the East Coast by Air Force plane.

(From the left) An article about Schramsberg from The Washington Post during U.S. President Richard Nixon's visit to China in 1972, Blanc de Blancs wine used at the dinner, and Schramsberg's underground wine cellar built in 1881.

Dreaming of 'America's Best Sparkling Wine'

Schramsberg's history dates back to the 19th century. In 1862, German immigrant Jacob Schram settled in the Diamond Mountain area in northern Napa County, California. He purchased 200 acres (about 250,000 pyeong) of land from the government and began the wine business by constructing an underground cellar stretching two miles (about 3.2 km). The winery prospered, producing about 30,000 cases of wine around 1890 and building a second underground cellar. However, after Jacob passed away in 1905, the winery lost its leader and ceased operations in 1912.

The winery, buried and forgotten for 50 years, was revived by the couple Jack and Jamie Davies. Dreaming of a meaningful life and seeking a new home, the young couple found an old winery site on the foothills of the Saint Helena area. It was a 19th-century Victorian-style mansion with a once-grand garden and underground storage, but when they first discovered it, the winery had long been neglected and faded. However, the couple did not miss the hidden light within. They decided to acquire and revive the old winery and moved from Los Angeles to the current location in 1965.

Jack and Jamie Davies, the couple who founded the Schramsberg Winery.

The Davies couple were ambitious. They never intended to be just another ordinary wine producer. With a single-minded goal of becoming a world-class wine producer, they aimed to create "America's most respected premium sparkling wine." They wanted their wine to be one enjoyed by special people and also to express their own tastes. Under this clear vision, they produced their first wine by the end of that year, which was the first sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes in the United States.

Focus on Quality... Laying the Foundation for American Sparkling Wine

With the establishment of Schramsberg, California sparkling wine entered a new era. Until then, most sparkling wines produced in the U.S. were inexpensive bubbly wines made using the 'Charmat Method,' a process involving secondary fermentation in stainless steel tanks that allowed mass production. However, the Davies couple chose the traditional 'Methode Champenoise' used in the Champagne region of France instead of the easier path.

The Methode Champenoise is the most labor-intensive among various sparkling wine production methods but produces the highest quality wines. Its hallmark is the secondary fermentation inside the bottle to create bubbles. The base wine blend is bottled, and a mixture of yeast and sugar called 'Liqueur de Tirage' is added before sealing with a crown cap. The bottled wine undergoes secondary fermentation over several weeks at a low temperature of about 12?14°C, generating carbon dioxide.

A scene of riddling work to remove sediment at Schramsberg Winery.

After secondary fermentation, yeast sediment remains at the bottom of the bottle. Instead of immediately removing the yeast, the wine is aged together with the sediment. Once aging is complete, a process called riddling is performed to remove the sediment. Schramsberg carries out all riddling manually. Through riddling, sediment collects in the bottle neck, which is then dipped into a calcium chloride solution to freeze the sediment. When the cap is removed, the pressure of the carbon dioxide expels the frozen sediment along with a small amount of wine. The lost wine is then topped up, completing the final wine.

What differentiates Schramsberg's sparkling wine from other California sparkling wines is the use of oak barrel fermentation and aging. Schramsberg ferments 25?40% of the juice extracted from grapes in oak barrels rather than the usual stainless steel tanks, producing a rich and smooth style. Unlike other California wineries that typically use base wines aged 1?3 years, Schramsberg uses base wines aged up to 10 years, adding complexity and sophistication.

The flagship product among these wines is the Blanc de Blancs, Schramsberg's first creation in 1965. Blanc de Blancs holds the distinguished title of being the first wine in the U.S. made using the traditional Champagne method. It uses 100% Chardonnay sourced from the optimal northern California coastal region and is aged with yeast in the bottle for two years before release. It offers bright and fresh fruit flavors of grapefruit, mango, apricot, lemon, and white peach, along with notes of freshly baked bread and vanilla cream pie, finishing with a powerful lingering impression. It is excellent to enjoy alone as an aperitif and pairs well with fresh oysters, shellfish, crab dishes, ceviche, and grilled white fish.

'Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs'

Innovation Continuing Tradition... The Background of Exceptional Sparkling Wine

Schramsberg's wines are produced from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes grown in vineyards across four counties in Northern California's coastal region: Napa, Mendocino, Sonoma, and Marin. Winemakers harvest grapes from over 78 specific vineyards and 172 blocks, producing more than 250 base wines annually. Through optimal blending, they create 12 to 14 unique sparkling wines each year.

Map of the vineyards in Schramberg.

The top-tier wine among these is the 'Schramsberg J. Schram Blancs.' Named after Jacob Schram, Schramsberg's highest-grade wine was first introduced with the 1987 vintage and has been regarded as a symbol of American character and modern elegance. Initially released under the name J. Schram, it was renamed J. Schram Blanc in the 2013 vintage to emphasize its Chardonnay-centric style.

J. Schram Blanc is primarily made from Chardonnay grapes grown in Schramsberg's coldest vineyards. About 35% of the base wine is barrel fermented, and after a long eight-year bottle aging, it is finally released. It can be aged for over 10 years. The first sip features flavors of apricot and baked apple, with aromas of brioche and warm peach. On the palate, it offers a soft and dense texture, followed by smooth and refreshing acidity that finishes elegantly and with a long finish.

Schramsberg J. Schram Blancs

When the Davies couple first purchased Schramsberg, they had several options. They could have torn down the old house and built a modern structure or cleared the forest to expand the vineyards. However, from the beginning, they chose preservation. They restored and used the old wine house and raised their children there. Moreover, they kept most of the 200-acre property as forest, using only 43 acres for vineyards. Preservation has always been an important part of Schramsberg's plan.

The Davies couple's legacy is now carried on by their son, Hugh Davies. Born and raised in the vineyards and holding a master's degree from the prestigious UC Davis in winemaking, he became Schramsberg's president in 2005 and currently serves as the head winemaker. Based on a firm commitment to land preservation and management, he continues the pride of being "America's best sparkling wine producer," crafting sparkling wines of exceptional caliber.

Scenery of the vineyards in Schramsberg.