[Akyeong Wine Cellar] "Reproduction through Imitation"... The Origin of Italian Sparkling 'Spumante'

<8> Italy's 'Gancia'

170 Years of History as Italy's Sparkling Pioneer
1865: Creator of Italy's First Sparkling 'Asti Spumante'
Famous in Korea as Producer of 'Moscato d'Asti'

Editor's NoteThere is no wine under the sky that is the same. Even when grapes grown on the same land every year are used and fermented and aged in the same way, the results differ each time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Wines that silently disappear after leaving only a single intense memory all carry fascinating stories. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are brewed and ripened according to their unique circumstances.

The ancient Greek philosopher Aristotle said in "Poetics" that humans have a nature to 'represent' through 'imitation.' Here, imitation is closer to being inspired by nature or its creations or creating new works in one's own way based on them, rather than simply copying something as it is. Through this representation, artistic creation and creativity begin.

Panoramic view of Gancia's Canelli vineyard.

There is a story of new creation achieved through imitation and representation even in sparkling wine. When talking about sparkling wine, most people first think of France's 'Champagne.' Champagne has always been regarded as the epitome of premium sparkling wine and is loved by many. However, just because Champagne holds the throne does not mean that other sparkling wines are inferior to Champagne. Especially on hot days like these, many wine enthusiasts think of Italian sparkling wines chilled cold with fresh aromas and crisp flavors that cool the body's heat before Champagne.

The winery that is the origin of Italian sparkling wine is 'Gancia.' It started as an imitation and representation of Champagne but ultimately succeeded in creating a unique Italian style. It is a monumental winery marked as the first in the history of Italian sparkling wine 'Spumante.'

Champagne Recreated in Piemonte... Becoming the First Spumante

(From the left) Carlo Gancia, the founder of Gancia, and the winery building as it appeared in 1850 when it was established.

Carlo Gancia, born in 1829 in Narzole, Piemonte, Italy, went to study in Reims, the center of Champagne production, in 1848 before he was even twenty. Working at a Champagne house in Reims, he systematically learned the traditional Champagne production method (Traditional Method, Methode Champenoise). In 1850, he returned to Piemonte and founded 'Fratelli Gancia' with his brother Edouardo Gancia.

Based on the knowledge and experience he gained in France, Carlo began producing high-quality sparkling wine. However, at that time, the main grape varieties used for Champagne, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, were not cultivated in Piemonte. Therefore, the alternative chosen was Moscato Bianco, which was widely grown in Piemonte. Moscato is a white grape variety widely cultivated in northern Italy, characterized by intense floral aromas and flavors of peach and pear, also known as 'Muscat.'

Wine-producing region of Piemonte, Italy. The green area in the center is 'Asti,' the main production area of the Moscato variety.

Gancia used Moscato as the main ingredient and began making premium sparkling wine using the same secondary bottle fermentation method as Champagne. After long experiments and process improvements, in 1865, they introduced the first Italian sparkling wine. Sold at the time under the name 'Moscato Champagne,' this wine was Italy's first Spumante made by the secondary bottle fermentation method. Later, legal restrictions were imposed allowing only sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France to use the term Champagne, so the name was changed to 'Moscato Spumante.'

The two brothers moved in 1866 to Canelli, a long-established wine production center, to lay their foundation, and they continue to cultivate grapes and produce wine centered in this region. Subsequently, based on high quality, Gancia was designated as the official wine supplier to the Italian king Vittorio Emanuele II in 1870, earning the title 'Provveditori di Sua Maest? il Re' (Supplier to His Majesty the King). They also raised their profile by winning awards at the Vienna Exhibition in Austria in 1873 and the Paris Exhibition in France in 1878, continuing their growth.

Transition to the Charmat Method... Gaining Global Recognition

'Gancia Asti Spumante'

Spumante refers to Italian sparkling wine. The precise classification distinguishes Spumante as Italian sparkling wine with strong carbonation and 'Frizzante' as lightly sparkling, but often both are collectively called Spumante. The Spumante first introduced by Gancia, known as Moscato Champagne and Moscato Spumante, is now called 'Asti Spumante.' Asti is a wine-producing area in southeastern Piemonte and the main production area of the Moscato grape; sparkling wines made in this region are called Asti Spumante.

The Asti Spumante first made by Carlo remained popular into the 20th century but faced a turning point around World War II. After the war, the demand from American soldiers who enjoyed Spumante in the region exploded. To meet the rapidly increasing demand, Asti Spumante producers switched from the time-consuming and costly traditional secondary bottle fermentation method to the Charmat Method, which allows mass production.

The Charmat Method was first developed and patented in 1895 by Federico Martinotti, a winemaker from Asti. In 1907, Frenchman Eugene Charmat improved and patented the method, which is now better known as the Charmat or tank method. Unlike the Champagne method, which conducts secondary fermentation in the bottle, the Charmat Method carries out secondary fermentation in stainless steel tanks through carbonation.

Exterior view of Gancia's underground wine cellar.

According to the Charmat Method, base wine is placed in stainless steel tanks, and yeast and sugar are added. Secondary fermentation occurs under pressure at low temperatures in the tank, producing bubbles. The carbon dioxide generated dissolves into the wine inside the tank without escaping. The fermentation period of the carbon dioxide is directly related to quality. A longer fermentation period preserves the wine's aroma better and produces finer, longer-lasting bubbles. After fermentation, yeast is removed through filtration, and the wine with dissolved carbon dioxide is bottled. However, unlike the typical Charmat Method, Asti Spumante uses grape juice instead of base wine for fermentation, called the Asti Method.

Along with changes in production methods, the name of Asti Spumante also changed. In 1993, the Asti region was elevated to DOCG, the highest classification under Italy's wine classification system DOC. Consequently, the word Spumante was dropped, and the wine uses the designation 'Asti (Asti DOCG).' Following the name change, 'Gancia Asti DOCG,' which removed Spumante from its name, remains Gancia's second highest-selling flagship wine. Gancia Asti, with an alcohol content of 7.5%, features a straw and pale golden color, delicate floral aromas, orange, and sweet honey scents, finishing with a sweet aroma and refreshing, pleasant taste as a semi-sweet sparkling wine.

The Familiar Yet Still Sweet Name 'Moscato D'Asti'

'Gancia Moscato D'Asti'

While Asti Spumante and Gancia made the names Asti and Gancia known worldwide, the most familiar and famous Asti to Koreans is undoubtedly 'Moscato D'Asti.' Meaning Moscato from the Asti region, Moscato D'Asti is a lightly sparkling Frizzante wine that is also very popular among beginners starting to drink wine outside Korea.

Moscato D'Asti is a light, sweet wine with rich aromas. According to DOC regulations, the carbonation pressure must not exceed 2.5 atmospheres (atm). Because it is lightly sparkling, it is softer and less intense in aroma and carbonation compared to Asti Spumante, which usually has over 4 atm. Its alcohol content ranges from a minimum of 4.5% to a maximum of 6.5%, making it easy to drink. Its excellent fruity and floral aromas and sweet taste make it popular as a dessert wine.

'Gancia Prosecco'

Although it does not match Moscato D'Asti in Korea, Gancia's best-selling wine worldwide, including Italy, is 'Gancia Prosecco,' accounting for about half of sparkling wine sales. There is no dispute that Prosecco holds the top spot in sales and preference among Spumante wines.

Prosecco is the most produced and beloved Spumante in Italy, produced in the northeastern regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Prosecco must contain at least 85% Glera, a white grape variety with light apple and melon flavors. It is made using the Charmat Method in stainless steel tanks, resulting in a clean style with fresh fruit flavors. Unlike the sweet Moscato D'Asti, Prosecco is made in a dry style with little sweetness.