When Casting the Fishing Line, a Rockfish as Big as an Arm... The Island Famous for Winter Trips [Digging Travel]

⑦Ongjin-gun Soijakdo, Attractive for Beautiful Coast and Sea Fishing Experience
From Pirate Hideout to Healing Treasure Island
Enjoy Scenery Along the Coastal Walking Trail

A safe hideout chosen by pirates. During the Joseon Dynasty, pirates who plundered grain ships traveling the seas were called Ijeok (伊賊) at the time. While searching for islands to hide on the vast ocean, they found two places and made them their bases: the islands of Daeijakdo and Soijakdo in Jawol-myeon, Ongjin-gun, today. Because these islands were bases for Ijeok, they were called Ijeokdo, which evolved into Ijeokdo → Ijakdo, and eventually became the current place names.

As the island's charm as a tourist destination gradually became known, the Incheon Tourism Organization launched the 'Living Proudly on Ongjin Island' program, allowing visitors to stay and experience the local attractions, receiving a warm response.
[Photo by Korea Tourism Organization]

As expected from a region chosen by sea-savvy thieves, Soijakdo has somewhat rugged terrain but is tranquil, and recently, it has been attracting visitors who enjoy sea fishing. As the island’s charm as a tourist destination gradually became known, the Incheon Tourism Organization launched the ‘Live Gracefully on Ongjin Islands’ program, allowing visitors to stay and experience the local attractions, which has received a warm response. As of October this year alone, 1,400 people have visited, and the tourist satisfaction rating reached 4.5 out of 5, establishing it as a highly satisfactory product. To verify the charm of ‘that island’ known only by word of mouth, we visited Soijakdo ourselves.

The ferry departing Incheon Port Passenger Terminal at 8:30 a.m. arrived at Soijakdo, Ongjin-gun, Incheon Metropolitan City, at 10 a.m. The over two-hour sea route was shortened to 1 hour and 20 minutes with the introduction of the ferry. The ferry, which stops at Jawoldo, Seungbongdo, Soijakdo, and Daeijakdo, briefly docked at Soijakdo pier, and passengers disembarked and immediately boarded pension shuttle vans. If the number of passengers slightly exceeds capacity, vehicles from neighboring pensions pick up passengers and take them to their respective pensions, a heartwarming scene commonly seen here.

Soijakdo, a place where pirate legends have been passed down and even lent its name to the island, is a charming travel destination full of tranquility and peace.
[Photo by Heeyoon Kim]

An island without buses, convenience stores, or restaurants. Therefore, pensions must provide accommodation, meals, and transportation all in one. Sea fishing on Soijakdo is not optional but essential. Recently, Soijakdo has become popular among campers who want to fully enjoy the island’s beautiful scenery by combining camping and sea fishing.

Soijakdo is an island stretching long from east to west, featuring hilly mountainous terrain (highest peak 159m) with high mountain peaks and overall rugged geography. Walking along the coastal trail encircling the island, you can find small boundary stones and various objects hidden along the path. Exploring every corner of the island, you will notice residents’ vegetable gardens, where wild greens unique to this island offer unforgettable flavors once tasted.

After a simple lunch at the pension, we moved to a small pier with the captain to go sea fishing. The island’s terrain, surrounded by rocky shores, creates a natural fishing ground where it is said no one returns empty-handed. Since it was my first time sea fishing, I closely observed the captain and crew’s preparation process. Attaching a heavy sinker to a transparent long fishing line, hooking two fishing hooks baited with ragworms and loaches, and winding the reel completed the setup.

On Soijakdo Island, anyone can become an urban fisherman through a boat fishing experience.
[Photo by Kim Heeyoon]

Before departure, the captain gave a detailed lesson on boat fishing techniques, but until you actually feel the tug, the explanation just passes by like the sea breeze. Once the fishing line is lowered into the water and the heavy sinker touches the underwater rocks, gently lifting and lowering it entices the fish. Whether it was beginner’s luck or the bait coming to life through clumsy movements, the wait soon turned into a strong tug on the line.

After catching five rockfish that day, the captain jokingly offered to scout me. Since the fish caught on the boat would become the ingredients for dinner, everyone had to give their best effort in fishing. Our group enjoyed a bountiful feast that day, catching rockfish, striped beakfish, black rockfish, and flatfish, combining beginner’s luck and earnestness with cosmic energy. Everyone admired and applauded the skate and large flatfish caught in the captain’s net, which was spread out in case a guest’s fishing failed.

The fish species caught that day soon appear as sashimi on the dinner table, fully satisfying the five senses. The place the reporter visited is Hanul Pension, where the lady manager's skill and sense stand out with impressive heart-shaped plating.
Photo by Kim Heeyoon

Thanks to the skillful hands of the pension’s lady owner, the rockfish and flatfish we caught were served as sashimi, and the skate was steamed, filling the table. Once again, I would like to express my gratitude to the owner of Hanul Pension and the captain couple. Their skills were so impressive that after the trip, our group gained 3 kg when we weighed ourselves, having fully enjoyed the sea feast of sashimi, steamed dishes, stews, and fried foods throughout the journey. Thanks to adding taste and style to an otherwise somewhat bland island trip, what was meant to be a healing trip for the eyes became a memory satisfying all five senses.

The next morning, we indulged in a hangover cure with flower crab ramen cooked by the pension owner on the outdoor terrace overlooking the sea. For lunch, the fish caught the previous day were served as fried fish, marking the finale of our food journey. The ferry from Soijakdo to Incheon Port departs at 2:45 p.m. Before that, a village tour program is prepared, where visitors explore every corner of the island with the village chief, offering diverse experiences until the very end of the trip.

Standing tall against the sea breeze and waves, the 'Sonjagak Rock' has weathered over time to take the shape of an index finger. It is said that if you make a wish here, it will come true.
[Photo by Kim Heeyoon]

With village chief Jeong Gwang-yeon, we toured old houses scattered around Geunmal behind the passenger ferry pier and heard long-standing island stories. The oldest resident on the island, a 98-year-old grandmother, is still busy farming her vegetable garden. Living on an island with good water, clean air, and tranquility naturally leads to longevity. Walking along the continuous walking trail on the island, we reached Soijakdo’s famous Finger Rock. The rock’s shape, formed by the weathering effects of sea and wind, closely resembles an index finger. There is a legend that if you make a single wish here, it will come true, making it a must-visit spot for tourists.

Among the Soijakdo Gaetti Trail courses, the Pirate Forest Trail features the remains of huts where pirates once gathered, directly conveying the island’s history and culture. Soijakdo’s catchphrase, ‘Beautiful Treasure Island, Pirate Island,’ reminds those who have lived busily outside the island that the unique experiences and memories they can have here are true treasures.

'Living Proudly on Ongjin Islands,' operated by Incheon Metropolitan City, Ongjin County, and Incheon Tourism Organization, offers a 40% discount on various experiential tours that allow you to fully enjoy the charm of the islands in the Incheon area.
[Photo by Incheon Tourism Organization]

Incheon Metropolitan City has a total of 168 islands, of which 40 are inhabited. Since 2021, Incheon Metropolitan City, Ongjin-gun, and the Incheon Tourism Organization have been operating the ‘Live Gracefully on Ongjin Islands’ project.

This project offers ▲‘Village Story Tours’ led by local guides, ▲‘Full Tide Experiences’ enjoyed by riding fishing boats, ▲and ‘Marine Story Tours’ explaining marine ecosystems such as dolphins. Depending on the season, visitors can also enjoy leisure activities such as ‘mudflat experiences’ digging for clams, ‘net fishing experiences,’ and ‘paddle boating.’

How to get to Soijakdo

▲Ferries to Soijakdo operate from Incheon Port Coastal Passenger Terminal (1599-5985) and Bangameori Pier in Daebudo.

▲From Bangameori Pier in Daebudo, there is one daily service (08:30) taking 1 hour and 50 minutes. Ferries departing from Daeijakdo operate once daily (15:00). Steel-hulled ferries can carry vehicles. One-way fare is 10,700 KRW, and vehicle one-way fare is 42,000 KRW.

▲From Incheon Coastal Passenger Terminal, there are two daily services (07:50 by Daebu Shipping for 14,300 KRW, 08:30 by Goryeo Express Ferry for 22,600 KRW).