[New Word Dictionary] Gunssak - Mouthwatering

Gunsak is a shortened form of "군침이 싹 도네," meaning "mouthwatering," and it became a popular word along with the image of Loopy, a character from the animation Pororo. Illustration by artist Oh Seongsu

[Asia Economy Reporter Kim Heeyoon] “Ah, what is this delightful thing? What is this hazy, soft, plain, and mild thing? (Omitted) This is like the white steam rising all day from the fields of Eundaengi Yedegari near the remote mountain of Eonni Yangjigwi or Neungdal, carrying the scent of beef tallow fire on a plate, coming into the kitchen like a mountain mist.” Considering that in Jeongju, Pyongan Province, the hometown of poet Baek Seok, naengmyeon (cold noodles) was called guksu (noodles), it is presumed that the poet’s praise of noodles is directed toward the mild Pyongyang-style local dish, Pyongyang naengmyeon. In the southern granary regions, rice was more common than buckwheat, so noodles were not missed, but in the barren Pyongan Province, buckwheat, a famine-relief crop, was widely cultivated, and noodle dishes developed accordingly. Choi Namseon defined in “Joseon Common Sense” that “the development of noodles originated from the life of slash-and-burn farmers.” The earliest historical record of noodles is found in the Goryeo period in Dongguk Isanggukjip by Yi Gyubo, with the phrase “Three distinguished scholars have become guests at your soup and rice,” describing relatives gathering to eat noodles on the third day after a child’s birth to celebrate. In the past, when wheat was scarce, noodles were a precious dish served only at feasts or to honored guests, eaten sparingly to whet the appetite.

“Gunsak” is a shortened form of “saliva sprouts” (mouth-watering) and became popular along with the image of Loopy, a character from the animation Pororo. Even when facing Baek Seok’s noodles, he does not call them directly but refers to them as “this delightful thing,” subtly expressing the feeling of mouth-watering and elevating it to a state of praise. The noodles, appearing only in the poem’s title, transcend the poet’s memories to become “passing through the proud hearts of the villagers who are born and die generation after generation, passing through the dull dreams (omitted), coming as if the great grandfather from long ago is coming.” Indeed, the “Dongguk Sesigi,” which records seasonal customs of the Joseon Dynasty, states, “Buckwheat noodles mixed with radish kimchi and napa cabbage kimchi, with sliced pork added, are called naengmyeon,” and “Pyongan naengmyeon is considered the best.” The poet’s insight, capturing the mouth-watering best taste of all eight provinces and the history of life and death of a person and village, may be inviting us today to enjoy a bowl of noodles filled with joyful memories.

Example

A: Finally, it’s time to get off work. What should we eat tonight?
B: A new Malatang place opened nearby. Want to go there?
A: Mala is always right. Do you have photo reviews?
B: Yeah. Check out the Instagram photos. The visuals are just...
A: Wow, totally gunsak. Let’s go quickly. There will be a line.