[Cho Yongjun's Journey Across the Land] The Breathtaking Scenery of Geumodo's Bireong Trail Reserved Only for Walkers

Maebong Observatory Overlooking the Dadohae
The Thrill of the Coastal Cliffs at "Bireongdari" Suspension Bridge
18.5 km of Scenic Beauty Along Five Bireong Trail Courses
A Spectacular Camellia Primeval Forest in Spring

The Deeper You Walk, the More Beautiful the Bireong Trail Becomes

A Perfect Day Where the Sea and Cliffs Meet

Geumodo Island: "An Island Where Time Flows Slowly"

The Most Scenic and Challenging Section: Course 3 out of 5

The suspension bridge called 'Bireong Bridge' connecting the sea cliffs

The west coastal cliff of Geumodo Island where the Bireong Trail continues

Walking along Bireonggil, you will encounter steep coastal cliffs.

Geumodo Island, where the late autumn atmosphere is vividly felt despite the early winter warmth

Coastal cliff transitioning from Course 2 to Course 3

After passing through the forest tunnel, the sea suddenly appears.

There are 317 islands scattered off the coast of Yeosu-truly a sea of many islands, or Dadohae. Among them is one island that mainlanders visit most frequently: Geumodo, whose name means "golden turtle island" due to its shape. It is the second largest island after Dolsando, which is now almost part of the mainland, and the 21st largest in Korea. Its physical size is impressive, but the scale of its scenery is even more overwhelming. On this island, there is a coastal cliff trail called the "Bireong Trail," which offers breathtaking views of the Dadohae. "Bireong" is the Yeosu dialect for "cliff." Originally, this path connected villages and was used by locals to gather firewood and go fishing. While there are some ups and downs, the trail is not particularly difficult. Just walking alongside the dazzling sea is an exhilarating experience. But that's not all-Geumodo is also famous for its coastal angelica. It is said that 95% of the coastal angelica distributed nationwide comes from Geumodo. The plant became famous for its reputed ability to prevent strokes. After hiking the Bireong Trail, enjoying a plate of coastal angelica pancakes or a bowl of coastal angelica abalone noodle soup is an unexpected luxury that leaves a lasting impression.

The ferry departing from Dolsan Singi Port in Yeosu arrived at Yeocheon Port on the northern side of Geumodo in just 20 minutes. As soon as I set foot on the island, the late autumn scenery caught my eye. Although winter was approaching, the southern wind was warm, and the memories of late autumn lingered longer here.

Passenger ferry bound for Geumodo departing from Dolsan Singi Port

The five courses of the Bireong Trail on the island's western side stretch a total of 18.5 kilometers and take about 8 hours and 30 minutes to complete. As "Bireong" means "cliff," the trail circles the island along its cliffs. Built upon old paths that once connected villages, the trail allows you to feel the presence of Geumodo's residents at every turn. If you hurry, you can complete the whole trail in a day, but to truly enjoy the natural beauty, a two-day, one-night trip is ideal. If you must return the same day, one or two courses are recommended. Following the advice of the tourist information center, I chose to walk Course 3.

I started Course 3 at Jikpo Village. Among the Bireong Trail's sections, this one has the most elevation changes, but it is not particularly strenuous. It features all the highlights of the Bireong Trail: observatories, a suspension bridge, and forests.

From the very start, a dense camellia forest forms a tunnel. Although the sky occasionally peeks through, the forest remains lush for about one kilometer until you reach the Galbaramtong Observatory. Small birds flitted swiftly from tree to tree, chirping cheerfully as if singing. The gentle sound of waves provided a soothing background to the entire scene.

Deck path below Maebong Observatory

Coastal cliff appearing past Galbaramtong Observatory

Although I came to see the sea along the Bireong Trail, the dense forest hid it completely. Geumodo is covered with thick forests of nutmeg, camellia, pine, hornbeam, citron, and more. There are so many tree species that it is overwhelming. In the past, people called Geumodo "Geomeu-seom," meaning "black island," because from afar, the dense forests made it look entirely dark. There is a reason for this: Until 1884, civilians were not allowed to live on the island. The Joseon Dynasty designated it as "Bongsan" (a restricted mountain), forbidding indiscriminate tree cutting. All the timber harvested here was sent to Hanyang (Seoul) for making royal coffins.

After walking for quite some time, the forest suddenly opened up, revealing a breathtaking view of the sea. This is the Galbaramtong Observatory, perched on a sheer cliff. The sea's colors defy simple descriptions like "emerald" or "jade"-the spectrum is simply too varied and beautiful.

After standing for a while to admire the sea, I returned to the forest path. This time, it was a dense camellia forest. The sky appeared and disappeared through the branches of trees that had already shed their leaves. Although it was not yet time for camellias to bloom, and I could not see their red flowers, I was so immersed in the forest that I soon arrived at Maebong Observatory.

Bireongdari

The Sea of Dadohae

Travelers resting at Maebong Observatory

The view of Geumodo from the observatory was different again. As the highest observatory on the Bireong Trail, it offered a vast panorama of the sea that made me feel completely liberated. Standing at the edge of the cliff, listening to the waves, the noise of the city and the burdens of daily life seemed to vanish like the wind. In the distance, small villages nestled in the coves. Behind Hakdong Village, the endpoint of Course 3, I could faintly see Simpo Village, and the islands of Ando and Sorido floated on the sea.

Descending from the observatory, I crossed the "Bireong Bridge," a suspension bridge connecting narrow coastal cliffs carved by the sea. The middle of the bridge is finished with transparent glass, allowing you to feel the dizzying drop of dozens of meters below. Each step on the swaying bridge made my legs tremble. With a sheer drop to the sea below, it's no wonder. Sometimes, playful travelers crossing the bridge would make others cling to the railings before daring to cross. After the Bireong Bridge, the path leads back to Jikpo Village, the starting point of Course 3. If you came by car, it's best to return from either Maebong Observatory or Bireong Bridge. If you want to take the village bus or continue to Course 4, you should head to Hakdong Village, the endpoint of Course 3. About 20 minutes past the Bireong Bridge, you reach a small coastal area-Hakdong Village, the endpoint. Looking back at the late autumn sea with some regret, I saw the water was completely still, with only the dazzling sunlight sparkling on its surface. The sunlight was so bright, it was almost impossible to look at the sea.

Geumodo (Yeosu) = Written and photographed by Cho Yongjun, travel journalist

◆Travel Information

▲Getting There: The Bireong Trail on Geumodo consists of five courses (18.5 km) along the island's western coastline. Ferries depart from Yeosu Coastal Passenger Terminal, Dolsan Singi Port, and Baekya Island Pier. Among these, the Dolsan Singi Port-Geumodo Yeocheon route has the most frequent sailings. The one-way fare for adults is 5,000 won.

▲Local Food: Coastal angelica is famous here, and it tastes best when harvested between March and April. There are several places on Geumodo that serve dishes made with coastal angelica. Among them, the Eco-friendly Coastal Angelica Abalone Noodle House is run by a grandmother who has lived on the island for 30 years since following her husband here. She lovingly prepares coastal angelica pancakes and coastal angelica abalone noodle soup (10,000 won, pictured), both of which are delicious.

▲Sights: With the opening of Ando Bridge, Ando Island has become connected to Geumodo and is not to be missed. The island is quiet, and the low hill to the right of the pier is worth climbing. From the summit, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Ando's small, beautiful pebble beach and the distant Dadohae seascape. The best scenic spot on Ando is undoubtedly Baekgeumpo Beach. Its fine sand and shallow water make it perfect for swimming in summer, and the water is a pale emerald color.

The sunset scenery on Geumodo is truly exceptional. At dusk, the pastel blue sea is tinged with the colors of the setting sun, shifting from deep yellow to orange to a reddish purple as time passes. The best place to view the sunset is above Hamgumi Village. For an inspiring sunrise, climb the beacon mound on Mangsan Mountain (344 meters) early in the morning.