[Interview] "Wine Is Art"... The Words That Changed a Life, Barolo

Interview with G.D. Vajra Winemaker
Barolo Winery in Piedmont, Italy
Modern Details Added to Classic Barolo
"Bricco delle Viole," a Wine Containing the Soul of the Family

"Wine is the art that distinguishes humans from animals. We can live without good wine, but such a life would lack art and inspiration."

Giuseppe Vaira, the second-generation winemaker leading G.D. Vajra, a winery in Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, recently told The Asia Business Daily in an interview that this phrase he once heard from his father changed his life. Although he passed the entrance exam for medical school, he ultimately returned to the vineyards and winery. "To participate in winemaking is to lend a hand in elevating people’s lives," he said.

Giuseppe Vaira, winemaker of G.D. Vajra, interviewed by The Asia Business Daily.

"Wine is the Art that Elevates Humanity"

The Vaira family has cultivated the hills of Barolo since the 1600s, making them one of the region’s oldest farming families. Centered around high-altitude vineyards in Vergne, near the village of Barolo, they grow a variety of grape varieties, from Nebbiolo to Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, and Moscato. Since the 1970s, Aldo Vaira, the winery’s founder and Giuseppe’s father, began organic farming, making them one of the earliest producers in Piedmont to receive organic certification.

Despite the family-run background, Aldo Vaira never forced his children to take over the business. Giuseppe recalled, "My father always told us to do what we truly wanted, but he made one thing clear: there is no middle ground." He emphasized that whatever we chose, we had to commit to it wholeheartedly. Giuseppe’s options eventually narrowed down to becoming a doctor or a winemaker, and at that point, he asked his father, "What is the social purpose of winemaking?"

After a brief silence, his father pointed to a painting by Constantino Ruggeri hanging in the dining room and replied, "We can live without art-without paintings, poetry, or music. But a life without those things is a much poorer life. The same goes for wine. Wine is a tool that allows humans to live as more elevated beings." In that moment, wine became more than just a family business for Giuseppe-it became a vocation to which he could assign his own meaning.

A view of the Bricco delle Viole vineyard by G.D. Vajra.

Barolo in Constant Transformation: "Wine That Sends You on a Journey"

Giuseppe Vaira, winemaker of G.D. Vajra, interviewed by The Asia Business Daily.

The Barolo world has long been divided by the debate between traditionalism and modernism, and G.D. Vajra was no exception. Since the village of Barolo is a small community of only about 600 people, Giuseppe was often confused by childhood friends saying, "Your father is a traditionalist," or, "No, he’s a modernist." Giuseppe himself dislikes such dichotomies. He defines his style as "clean traditional." He explained, "What we call traditionalism is not about fearing change and clinging to the past. It’s more about respecting where we come from and our roots, while striving to improve with each vintage."

This philosophy is clearly reflected in their winemaking methods. The basic structure follows the traditional Barolo approach-long maceration fermentation, use of large Slovenian oak barrels, and traditional vineyard management. However, while maintaining this foundation, they have continuously introduced meticulous improvements with a modern sensibility. Examples include triple hand-sorting of grapes, tasting every barrel each morning, and recording aroma and structure profiles for each cask. Rather than fitting themselves into the opposition between traditionalism and modernism, they have steadily accumulated small changes with the goal of making Barolo that is accessible and preserves pure fruit character.

When Giuseppe thinks of Barolo, he imagines "lying in a field, gazing up at the night sky." He said, "Stars may appear still, but as the Earth rotates, they move little by little. Likewise, Barolo in the glass may seem at rest, but as time passes and it meets the air, its aroma, flavor, and texture constantly evolve." He added, "With other wines, you can often guess the taste just by smelling them, but that’s not the case with Barolo. It’s not a wine you finish after one sniff; it’s a wine that invites you to linger over a glass and have a long conversation."

A Year That Will Never Return... Captured in a Bottle

Barolo Bricco delle Viole

Giuseppe Vaira named "Barolo Bricco delle Viole" as the wine that best represents G.D. Vajra. "Bricco delle Viole is the vineyard that embodies the soul of our family," he explained. "Its high elevation and unique soil make it the clearest expression of the 'Vaira style' of Barolo." Barolo Bricco delle Viole is known for its ripe plum and black cherry aromas, with a touch of minerality and firm, powerful tannins. Among G.D. Vajra’s Barolos, it is regarded as having a strong and masculine style.

This does not mean that other wines are mere side branches. "We are still a young winery, only in our second generation," he said. "I hope people recognize that we have a range of wines, each playing a different role." Notable examples include "Barolo Albe," "Langhe Nebbiolo," and the entry-level "Langhe Rosso." Although these are priced lower than single-vineyard Barolos, Giuseppe is confident: "In terms of quality, they can hold their own against other single-vineyard Barolos from the same region."

For him, each vintage is a record of a year that will never return. "These days, almost everything is backed up in the cloud, so we believe we can recover anything we lose. But in agriculture, there is no backup," he pointed out. "If a year’s harvest is poor, it takes another 365 days to start over." He emphasized, "The awareness of this irreversibility is what draws me back to the vineyard whenever things get tough." As he said, a glass of Barolo is not just a drink, but a record of a year’s waiting and of time that cannot be reclaimed. Perhaps the quiet yet lingering impression left by G.D. Vajra’s Barolo comes from this calm, documentary approach.