The Secret of the Colorful Sweets on the Ritual Table... Why They Are Stacked Like a Tower [Delicious Stories]

Vividly Colored Okchundang and Palbodang: Traditional Sweets with Centuries of History
Originally Royal Cuisine... Stacked Like Towers for Spectacular Displays
"A Culinary Heritage That Elevated Food to Artistic Mastery"

Editor's NoteIt is said that the first sweets were discovered in ancient Mesopotamian civilization. In other words, sweets have accompanied every moment of human history. From biscuits and chocolate to ice cream, we bring you delicious stories behind the treats we love.

There are colorful sweets that always appear on the ancestral ritual table during holidays. For larger ritual tables, these sweets are sometimes stacked like a tower, creating a spectacular display. These sweets are called Okchundang and Palbodang, traditional royal confections made with sugar and natural coloring. It is estimated that they have been made on the Korean Peninsula for at least several centuries, and they were once rare delicacies served only during royal banquets for guests at the palace.

Vividly Colored Okchundang and Palbodang: Traditional Sweets with Centuries of History

Okchundang (left) and Palbodang. Moran Buddhist Supplies homepage

Okchundang is a round, flat sweet with a reddish hue, while Palbodang is a small, flower-shaped sweet in a single color. Both are decorative confections that appear at major events such as ancestral rites, memorial services, and first birthday celebrations.

As their names suggest-'dang' meaning sugar-they both have a sweet flavor. Traditionally made Okchundang and Palbodang are flavored with rice flour, syrup, and grain syrup, while the modern versions are made by melting sugar and pouring it into molds to harden. Natural coloring is added using ingredients like gardenia and mint, resulting in their vibrant hues.

The snack inside the red circle is Okchundang. Korean Studies Advancement Center

Okchundang and Palbodang are sweets with a history of at least several hundred years. According to sources such as the Korean History Network, the name Okchundang already appears in records from the late Joseon Dynasty. A royal record from the 19th year of King Jeongjo's reign (1795) describes a banquet table topped with a tower of Okchundang stacked up to 6 chi (about 18 cm) high.

Originally Royal Cuisine... Creating Sculptures with 'Goimsae'

Both Okchundang and Palbodang were strictly royal foods. According to an article contributed by Han Bokryeo of the Royal Cuisine Research Institute to the National Heritage Administration, Okchundang and Palbodang were prepared when making 'Gobaesang.' Gobaesang refers to the grand banquet table of the Joseon Dynasty, featuring 40 to 70 side dishes, set for royal celebrations wishing for the king's longevity.

A pile of palbodang and yakgwa. The photo shows the royal banquet table "Jineodaetakchan," celebrating the 30th anniversary of King Gojong's reign in 1892, recreated by the Royal Cuisine Research Institute. Jongno-gu Office Blog

The highlight of Gobaesang was a tower-shaped food arrangement known as 'Goimsae.' Okchundang or Palbodang would be stacked to a height of 10 to 20 centimeters. The unique colors of Okchundang and Palbodang would blend together to create intricate patterns, and appreciating this spectacle was considered one of the charms of Gobaesang. The process of creating Goimsae with Okchundang and Palbodang was entrusted to skilled artisans. One researcher described it as "a proud Korean culinary heritage that elevated food to the level of artistic mastery."

Since the mid-20th century, Okchundang and Palbodang Goimsae have also appeared at national events, traditional weddings, 60th birthday celebrations, and large local feasts for ancestral rites or memorial services. As for how the know-how of royal cuisine spread to the general public, one researcher speculated, "Foods served at royal banquets would have been passed down to noble households after the events. The nobility would have tasted royal sweets and rice cakes and learned the recipes in their own way, eventually passing them on to the general public."

Rakugan and Four-Color Candy: Sugar Sweets of Northeast Asia

Japan Rakugan (left) and Chinese four-colored candy. Cake Japan, R-MAN Studio homepage

The culture of "colorful decorative sweets made with sugar or syrup" is not unique to the Korean Peninsula. In Japan, there is a sugar craft sweet called Rakugan, which is also placed on ritual tables.

Rakugan is made by kneading grain flour with sugar and syrup, then pressing the mixture into molds to harden. It comes in various shapes, such as flowers or rectangles. The taste is simply sweet, and the texture is hard, but its elegant appearance makes it popular for ceremonial use.

In China, there are "four-color candies" served at wedding banquets. These include square sugar, winter melon candy, tangerine candy, and longan fruit candy. The bride and groom walk around the banquet hall and hand out these candies as gifts to their guests after the ceremony.