[Akyung Wine Cellar] The Flavors of Four Seasons in a Glass... The Star of the 'Judgment of Paris'

Founded in Calistoga, Napa Valley in 1882
Champion of the "Judgment of Paris"... Leading the Rise of New World Wines
"Focused on Effectively Conveying the Character and Essence of Terroir"

Editor's NoteNo two wines are ever the same under the sky. Even when grapes are grown on the same land and vinified and aged in the same way each year, the results are always different. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created through the harmony of humans and nature. Wines that disappear silently, leaving behind only a single vivid memory, each carry their own intriguing stories. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' brings you the unique stories of wines, each shaped and matured by their own circumstances.

The front view of the 'Chateau Montelena' winery located at 1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, California, USA. This building has also been listed as a National Historic Landmark in the United States.

"The goal of Chateau Montelena is to capture the weather of each year in a single glass of wine."

Matt Crafton, the head winemaker of Chateau Montelena who recently visited Korea, said, "I'm not interested in recreating specific flavors in our wines every year." As Chateau Montelena prioritizes winemaking that focuses on the present rather than the past, the winery concentrates on capturing the unique flavors of each season that emerge from the ever-changing weather, which presents itself differently each year.

Chateau Montelena is the winery that won the "Judgment of Paris." However, while the Judgment of Paris is a source of honor for them, it is also a memory they must be most wary of. Bo Barrett, owner and CEO of Chateau Montelena, says, "The proud past of the Judgment of Paris is only one chapter in our beautiful history." He emphasizes that the legacy of the past 140 years comes with the responsibility to keep growing, and that they will never become complacent.

Matt Crafton, the head winemaker of Chateau Montelena, who recently visited Korea.

Proving the Potential of New World Wines with a 'Judgment of Paris Victory'

The 140-year history of Chateau Montelena began in 1882, when American entrepreneur Alfred Tubbs purchased about 103 hectares (approximately 310,000 pyeong) of land in the northwestern Calistoga region of Napa Valley, California. Tubbs, who made a fortune in the rope business during the 19th-century Gold Rush, was captivated by the land he discovered while visiting a resort near Calistoga, a region famous for its hot springs. He planted grapevines and established Chateau Montelena winery there.

The winery steadily grew in reputation within Napa Valley. However, with the implementation of Prohibition in 1920, wine production was halted, and Tubbs sold the winery, which had lost its winemaking function, causing the history of Chateau Montelena to fade into obscurity. It was James L. Barrett, a businessman from Chicago, who revived the history of Chateau Montelena, which had been abandoned along with its medieval European-style chateau. In 1972, he purchased the vineyards and hired Mike Grgich as winemaker, embarking on a full-scale restoration of the winery.

It did not take long for Chateau Montelena to achieve global fame beyond simply restoring the winery. The 1976 Judgment of Paris remains one of the most talked-about events in the wine industry even 50 years later. Organized in Paris by Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant and educator, to commemorate the United States' bicentennial, the Judgment of Paris was a blind tasting designed to compare the quality of French and American wines.

Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 1973 vintage, winner of the 1976 "Judgment of Paris"

In this tasting, judged primarily by French judges, American wines shocked the world by receiving the highest scores in both white and red categories, surpassing famous French Grand Cru wines. The wine that took first place in the white wine category was none other than the "Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay." This event, which severely wounded the pride of France, the birthplace of wine, instantly catapulted Chateau Montelena to fame and made it the protagonist of the so-called "American Invasion."

The Judgment of Paris was an event where the authority of Old World wines, centered on France, was challenged, and it is significant in that it proved that high-quality wines could be produced outside of Europe. In particular, Napa Valley wines directly demonstrated that, based on their outstanding terroir, they could produce wines of a quality comparable to French Grand Crus. This event paved the way for New World wines from countries such as Chile, Australia, and New Zealand to gain attention and advance in the global market.

Crafton explained, "The Judgment of Paris was an event that brought about a paradigm shift in the wine industry," and added, "Because the Judgment of Paris proved the potential of New World wines, premium cult wines such as Opus One and Harlan Estate were able to emerge and grow afterward."

Due to its symbolic significance, the 1973 Chardonnay was selected as one of the 101 objects that made America, alongside Lincoln's hat and Armstrong's spacesuit, and is now permanently housed and exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum.

Vineyard view of Chateau Montelena.

A Wine Born of a 'Specific Place'

The Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, which took first place at the Judgment of Paris, has continued to maintain outstanding quality and has become the winery's flagship product. However, Crafton says that Chateau Montelena Chardonnay does not have a specific style. He explains, "When you let go of preconceived notions about what something should be, you can see it as it truly is," adding, "Our only goal is to express the vintage and the vineyard as they are."

He further states, "I believe there are wines completed through effort and wines created by a specific place. For 99% of wines, the winemaker's effort is the most important factor, but for the remaining 1%?a very small number of wines?it is the terroir of a particular place, which transcends effort, that completes the wine." The winemaking team at Chateau Montelena simply cultivates the optimal grape varieties in the most suitable locations, based on a deep understanding of the land they farm, and the final result is created through the perfect harmony between the vines and the terroir.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2022

When describing their wines, Chateau Montelena focuses less on the general characteristics of the collection and more on the weather of the vintage year. The most recent vintage, "Napa Valley Chardonnay 2022," was made from grapes grown in 2022?a year when summer arrived early, requiring extra care for soil moisture and vine health. In early September, an intense heatwave led to most grapes being harvested earlier than planned, while those picked later displayed riper characteristics, adding complexity to the wine.

Because it was a relatively warm year, the wine delivers a pure impression of well-ripened fruit. On the nose, peach, apricot, and kiwi show rich maturity, while on the palate, citrus aromas like mandarin and lemon are vividly present. The classic green apple note typical of Montelena wines is somewhat overshadowed by the abundance of other flavors but becomes more pronounced over time. The wine currently features a direct flavor profile, but it is expected to develop broader and deeper flavors in the coming years.

Winemaking facilities of Chateau Montelena.

Aging: Enduring the Test of Time

Calistoga AVA (American Viticultural Area), where Chateau Montelena is located, is surrounded by Mount Saint Helens to the north and the Mayacamas Mountains to the west and east. As a result, the vineyards at the valley floor retain cool air overnight and are always at risk of frost.

Wineries address this issue with sprinkler systems and large wind machines. The main grape variety cultivated in this region is Cabernet Sauvignon, but Zinfandel and Syrah are also widely grown. As the leading winery in Calistoga AVA, Chateau Montelena produces both Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel wines. Among them, the "Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon" is considered the top wine.

Vineyard view of Chateau Montelena.

Chateau Montelena's wine portfolio is relatively simple. Unlike other wineries that produce wines in a wide range of grades?from entry-level to mid-tier to premium?Chateau Montelena produces only one wine per grape variety. The only exception is Cabernet Sauvignon, which is made in two versions: Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and "Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon." This exception was made because the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is believed to reflect the terroir of Calistoga much more accurately.

The Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, produced from vineyards on the slopes of Calistoga, is grown in conditions that only allow for hand-harvesting, resulting in limited production. It was land that could only produce wine about ten years after being developed. Crafton explained, "For us, a great vintage is one that effectively conveys the feeling of this special place we cultivate."

Wines of Chateau Montelena.

The latest vintage, "Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021," is a wine with an alcohol content of 14.1%, blended from 94.1% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4.9% Cabernet Franc, and 1.0% Petit Verdot. It was aged for 22 months in French oak, with new oak making up 45% of the barrels. The wine is dominated by aromas of black fruit and vineyard earthiness, and swirling the glass brings out richer notes of mint, cassis, and black cherry. On the palate, the wine is intense yet impressively silky in its tannins. This is a wine that reveals more of its value the longer it is allowed to breathe in the glass.

All of Chateau Montelena's wines, both red and white, possess excellent aging potential. Every one of them is crafted to withstand the test of time. To achieve this, rather than simply expanding production, the winery focuses on cultivating robust grapes in outstanding terroir vineyards and produces only 500,000 bottles of premium wine annually. Crafton promises, "Every wine from Chateau Montelena will endure over time, constantly evolving, and ultimately reward your patience."

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021