Some European Restaurants Reject Evaluation
Controversy Over Objectivity and Fairness of Ratings
According to foreign media reports, there is a growing trend among restaurants selected for the world-renowned culinary guide, the Michelin Guide, to voluntarily return their stars or avoid being listed altogether. While Michelin stars have long been considered a major goal and honor for any chef, there has recently been a noticeable shift in how chefs perceive this recognition.
On April 21 (local time), the British daily The Guardian reported that the Italian restaurant Giglio, which had been listed in the Michelin Guide, requested in October of last year that Michelin remove its star. Benedetto Rullo, co-owner of the restaurant, explained that the Michelin star had become a burden.
He stated that many customers began to assume that, simply because the restaurant had a star, it would serve overly elaborate dishes and maintain a formal atmosphere. He emphasized that their goal was to create a restaurant where anyone could feel comfortable. He added, "People should be able to go to a fine restaurant wearing a T-shirt, sandals, and shorts."
There have also been moves to ban Michelin inspectors from entering certain establishments. Marc Veyrat, a renowned French chef known for molecular gastronomy, reportedly prohibited Michelin critics from visiting his newly opened restaurant in France. This is seen as evidence that Michelin stars are no longer regarded as an unconditional honor.
The Guardian pointed out that this trend may be influenced by the intense pressure chefs feel to "maintain their stars" once they receive them. In fact, Skye Gyngell, who was the chef at Petersham Nurseries in London, which received a Michelin star in 2011, described the star as a curse and said, "I pray never to receive one again." She eventually left the restaurant, explaining that after being listed in the Michelin Guide, the workload became overwhelming and she faced complaints from customers who expected a fine dining experience that clashed with her casual style.
There is also growing controversy over the fairness and objectivity of Michelin's evaluations. As the profitability of the printed guidebooks declined, Michelin began accepting funding from national tourism boards.
Food critic Andy Hayler noted, "Between 2016 and 2018, Michelin had to change its business model. As no one was buying printed guidebooks anymore, they started taking money from tourism boards in countries like Korea, the United States, and China." He added, "It is highly unlikely that Michelin would accept millions of dollars from a tourism board and then say, 'Sorry, but all the restaurants are terrible, so we can't award any stars.'"
However, Michelin has maintained that the process of selecting restaurants and awarding stars is functioning properly, and that the teams responsible for sponsorship and ratings are completely separate.
Facing changes and new criticism within the fine dining industry, Michelin is also attempting to adapt. The organization is striving to reflect the voices of a new generation of food enthusiasts and influencers, and has introduced the "Green Star" to recognize restaurants that demonstrate sustainable gastronomy through eco-friendly practices.
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