[AKyung Wine Cellar] The Origin of American Wine... "The Father of Napa Valley"

'The Father of American Wine' Robert Mondavi
The Legend of Napa Began at To Kalon
Obsession with Balance for 60 Years... A Symbol of Napa Valley
The Ultimate Guide to Napa Valley Wine

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when grapes grown on the same land each year are vinified and aged using the same methods, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only one intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are crafted and matured according to their unique circumstances.

"Smelling the rich soil of To Kalon, I realized this place was very special. It was an indescribably mysterious feeling."

Walking through the To Kalon region, which means 'the highest beauty' in Greek, Robert Mondavi had a premonition. His belief that California wines could stand shoulder to shoulder with the world's finest wines would become a reality, not just a dream. Later, he recorded the day he first encountered To Kalon as 'the day I found a treasure.' This marked the beginning of Napa, the representative wine-producing region of the United States.

The arch and tower, symbols of Robert Mondavi Winery.

'The Father of American Wine' Robert Mondavi

Robert Mondavi is regarded as the person who contributed most significantly to Napa Valley's reputation as the premier wine region in the United States today. The planting of grapevines and the start of winemaking in Napa Valley date back to the 1830s. However, the modern history of commercial winemaking in the true sense, and the transformation of Napa into a symbol of American wine, is unanimously considered to have begun in 1966 when Robert Mondavi established his winery.

Born in 1913 to Italian immigrant parents in Virginia, Minnesota, Robert Mondavi first connected with grapes when his family moved to Lodi, California during his teenage years. There, his father started a fruit packing business, shipping wine grapes by train to home winemakers in the East Coast. Exploiting a loophole in the National Prohibition Act, which allowed home winemaking, the Mondavi family achieved great success with this business.

Robert Mondavi, founder of Robert Mondavi Winery

After graduating from Stanford University in 1936, Robert worked at his father's company and proposed a new business venture?winemaking. Subsequently, the Mondavi family entered the wine industry by purchasing the Charles Krug Winery in Napa Valley in 1943. Robert handled business and marketing, while his brother Peter took charge of winemaking. The business prospered, and in 1963, Robert and his wife were invited to a White House dinner hosted by President John F. Kennedy as successful Italian immigrants.

However, the White House dinner became a turning point that caused Robert to turn against his family. He gifted his wife a mink coat for the dinner, which led to a dispute with his brother Peter over Robert's extravagance. The conflict escalated to legal battles, irreparably damaging their relationship. During this process, their mother sided with Peter, resulting in Robert being fired from the winery and effectively ousted.

The Legend of Napa Began at To Kalon

Cabernet Sauvignon harvested from To Kalon Vineyard

The land that gave Robert the strength to rise again after parting ways with his family was To Kalon. Many vineyards in the U.S. were devastated during Prohibition, and To Kalon was no exception. However, for Robert, who was seeking a new home, To Kalon was a treasure with ideal soil, sunlight, and rainfall. Centered around the To Kalon Vineyard, Robert finally established his eponymous winery in 1966. Here, through various innovations and challenges, he reached his true prime and became the origin of the legendary 'Napa.'

The To Kalon Vineyard is located on the western hillside area of Oakville, which can be considered the heart of Napa Valley. To Kalon is a vineyard formed where the Mayacamas Mountains meet the valley floor, consisting of alluvial soil mixed with sediment from the mountains and marine deposits from the Napa River. This results in excellent drainage and very thick, mineral-rich soil.

Above all, the grapevines in To Kalon absorb sunlight early in the morning and are shaded by the vineyard's shadows by early afternoon, allowing the grapes to absorb sunlight at an appropriate speed and amount. This contributed to producing wines with excellent acidity. In fact, many California wineries strive to prevent grape skins from burning or over-ripening due to the intense late afternoon sun, but To Kalon is free from such concerns.

The arch and tower, symbols of Robert Mondavi Winery.

The flagship product made from To Kalon Vineyard grapes is the 'Robert Mondavi Reserve Fume Blanc To Kalon.' Fume Blanc is based on Sauvignon Blanc, characterized by the fresh and lively taste of Sauvignon Blanc combined with the soft and slightly smoky flavor from oak barrel aging.

The name Fume Blanc was first coined by Robert Mondavi in 1968 to emphasize the smoky aroma of this Sauvignon Blanc wine. 'Fume' means 'smoke' or 'smoky' in French. Initially, the name Fume Blanc referred only to Mondavi's wine, but over the years, it has become a generic term representing a style loved by many.

The Fume Blanc from To Kalon is the highest-grade version of Fume Blanc wine made from grapes harvested from vines approximately 60 years old. It is a blend of 94% Sauvignon Blanc and 6% Semillon. It offers vibrant citrus, pear, and lilac aromas, with juicy flavors and excellent acidity filling the mouth, harmonizing with citrus, stone fruit, and jasmine scents. It balances the fresh fruit flavors with the complex aromas from oak aging, providing a medium-bodied texture and balanced acidity. It is aged for 11 months in French oak barrels with lees.

'Robert Mondavi Reserve Fume Blanc To Kalon'

Obsession with Balance for 60 Years... A Symbol of Napa Valley

Before Robert Mondavi established his winery in 1966, high-quality wines practically did not exist in the U.S. aside from low-priced bulk wines. However, Robert dedicated himself to improving wine quality through various innovations in winemaking techniques and contributed greatly to elevating the status of American wine. Even after his passing, Robert Mondavi is regarded as the most influential innovator in the history of American winemaking.

Notably, he introduced techniques such as cold fermentation, stainless steel tanks, and small French oak barrel aging to the Napa wine industry, as well as many innovations like organic farming, which were rare at the time. Particularly, unlike European wines that label the production region and village, he was the first to label grape varieties, setting the standard for New World wines and helping the then-nascent California wine industry of the 1960s grow to a world-class level.

In 1979, he collaborated with France's Baron Philippe de Rothschild to launch 'Opus One,' and in 1995, with Italy's Frescobaldi to release 'Luce,' creating wines that made a global impact alongside renowned European producers.

Kurtis Ogasawara, Director of Winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery, is conducting an interview with Asia Economy.

Recently visiting Korea, Kurtis Ogasawara, Director of Winemaking at Robert Mondavi Winery, emphasized that the obsession with balance maintained for 60 years has shaped today's Robert Mondavi Winery. Director Ogasawara said, "My role is to preserve the unique style of the Mondavi Winery," adding, "The most important thing is always balance?managing the wine's acidity, body, and texture so that nothing is skewed and everything fits perfectly." He explained, "A balanced wine that is neither too heavy, too fresh, nor too fruity pairs perfectly with food."

Robert Mondavi Winery does not merely cling to past styles and methods in the name of tradition. Continuous efforts are made to find optimal quality in line with advances in winemaking technology and changing trends. Traditionally, Napa Valley red wines were criticized for having very strong and rough tannins, but Director Ogasawara has softened and rounded them. He emphasized, "Usually, when a wine is opened and the tannins are strong, it is considered young, but Robert Mondavi wines are distinctive in that they exhibit smooth tannins whether recently made or aged for decades."

'Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon'

A wine that allows you to enjoy Mondavi's smooth tannins without burden is the 'Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.' This wine is the signature wine of the winery to which Robert Mondavi devoted his life and is considered a symbol of premium Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. The wine offers aromas of cherry, plum, sandalwood, mint, and vanilla bean, with sweet black fruit and oak spice flavors on the palate, delivering layers of richness and complexity. It features a rich texture, excellent acidity, and delicate tannins.

The Ultimate Guide to Napa Valley Wine

Director Ogasawara stated that Robert Mondavi Winery will continue to pursue new challenges. Regarding wine quality, there are plans to expand the use of natural yeast. He explained, "The industry typically uses commercially produced standardized yeast, but Mondavi is increasing the use of natural yeast extracted from the To Kalon Vineyard," adding, "This has resulted in significantly improved tannins and texture compared to before."

The winery is scheduled to reopen next year after renovations. Robert Mondavi Winery was the first to introduce wine tourism, transforming the winery into a space for enjoying wine, food, and culture through wine tastings, restaurants, exhibitions, and concerts beyond just a production facility. Director Ogasawara said, "After two and a half years of renovations, the winery will reopen early next year, and through various wine-related experiences, Robert Mondavi Winery will stand at the top in the hearts of visitors to Napa Valley."

Director Ogasawara emphasized, "Robert Mondavi is Napa Valley wine itself. While there are many wineries and wine styles in Napa Valley, for those who want to truly understand Napa Valley and challenge Napa Valley wines, the first gateway must undoubtedly be Robert Mondavi."

The flagship wine of Robert Mondavi Winery.