"Why Steal Chinese Culture?" Chaos... Luxury Brand Collaborating with Korean Artisans Ultimately

Chinese Netizens Raise 'Cultural Appropriation' Allegations
FENDI Deletes Posts as Controversy Grows

Italian luxury brand FENDI recently sparked controversy after Chinese netizens expressed discomfort over a bag released in collaboration with a Korean traditional knot artisan. On the 27th, the English edition of China’s state-run Global Times reported that FENDI became embroiled in a dispute after being criticized for incorrectly attributing the cultural roots of its product design to Korea.

The bag raised as an issue by the Chinese side is one of the 'Baguette Bag' products released in November last year through Fendi's 'Hand in Hand' project (a collaboration with local artisans). At that time, Kim Eun-young, Honorary Maedeup Artisan No. 13 of Seoul's Intangible Cultural Heritage, participated in the bag's production. Fendi explained when launching this bag, "In Korea, we collaborated with local artisan Kim Eun-young, who specializes in maedeup, a traditional craft that has been practiced since 1965, involving tying and fixing a single long cord to create various decorative knot shapes." FENDI

The bag in question, raised by the Chinese side, is one of the 'Baguette Bag' products launched last November through FENDI’s 'Hand in Hand' project, which collaborates with local artisans. At that time, the bag’s production involved Kim Eun-young, an honorary knot artisan designated as Seoul City Intangible Cultural Property No. 13. FENDI described the bag’s release by stating, "In Korea, we collaborated with local artisan Kim Eun-young, who has specialized in the traditional craft of knotting?a technique of tying and fixing a single long cord into various decorative knot shapes?since 1965." Kim Eun-young is an honorary knot artisan designated as Seoul City Intangible Cultural Property No. 13. Since starting with the Traditional Craft Competition in 1979, she has won multiple awards at the National Exhibition, Human Cultural Asset Craft Exhibition, and Traditional Craft Exhibition.

Her works have been exhibited worldwide, including at the Seattle Asian Art Museum in the United States and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. On its official website, FENDI introduced Kim Eun-young as having devoted herself to Korea’s traditional knot craft since 1965, adding, "What makes this edition stand out is the complexity of the technique, using knots traditionally employed in the ceremonial robes of the Joseon Dynasty."

Regarding the explanation from Fendi about the product, Global Times pointed out, "This controversy focuses on a bag featuring a design woven similarly to Chinese knots, a traditional Chinese decorative handicraft with thousands of years of history," and stated, "Fendi's product description implies that the decorative knot originates from Korean craftsmanship, suggesting a connection to Korean culture." FENDI

Regarding the product, Global Times pointed out, "This controversy focuses on a bag featuring a design woven similarly to Chinese knots, a traditional decorative handicraft with thousands of years of history in China," and criticized that "FENDI’s product description implies that the decorative knots originate from Korean craftsmanship, thus associating them with Korean culture."

It further stated that the knots "originated as folk art during the Tang and Song dynasties and gained popularity during the Ming and Qing dynasties," emphasizing that "numerous Chinese netizens have accused FENDI of 'cultural appropriation of Chinese culture,' and the issue trended on Weibo, with related hashtags becoming the second most popular topic on the platform."

A Chinese netizen commented, "While the design of FENDI’s collaboration bag is aesthetically pleasing, describing Chinese knotting techniques as Korean craftsmanship is inappropriate," and argued, "FENDI should respect Chinese culture." In response, a Korean netizen rebutted, "Contrary to China’s claims, knots have been found in our history dating back to the Three Kingdoms period," adding, "Since the knots have developed in forms different from those of China and Japan, such as being named after flora and fauna, claiming them as Chinese culture is groundless."

Meanwhile, related posts about the collaboration with knot artisan Kim Eun-young have been removed from FENDI’s official website and Instagram amid the controversy. Regarding the issue, FENDI stated that it has received numerous protest calls, is aware of the situation, and has reported it to the relevant departments for further verification.