"Eating Chili Like Koreans"... Young Japanese People Choosing Chili Over Wasabi [Nichiyobi Nichi Culture]

Japan's Iconic Spicy Flavor, "Wasabi"
From Medicinal Herb to Sushi Condiment Since the Edo Period
A Country with High Seafood Consumption... Wasabi as a Preservative and Antibacterial Agent

These days, it seems that Koreans have become quite accustomed to the sharp, pungent taste of wasabi. Not only at sashimi restaurants but also at barbecue places, it is common to be served wasabi. It seems to complement the greasy flavors better than expected.

When discussing Japanese food culture, wasabi, the spicy horseradish, is always mentioned. In Korea, spiciness is associated with chili peppers, but in Japan, spiciness is recognized as the heat from wasabi. The compound sinigrin in wasabi reacts with oxygen to produce a volatile substance called allyl isothiocyanate, which stimulates pain receptors. Because it is volatile, it becomes a gas that irritates the nose, causing that sharp, tingling sensation. When did this different perception of spiciness between Korea and Japan begin? Today, we share the story of Japanese food culture and wasabi.

Fresh wasabi grated on a grater. Wasarabo.

The Japanese have been enjoying wasabi for a very long time. Records from the mid-6th century Asuka period show that wasabi was used as a medicinal herb and even paid as tax. The oldest Japanese herbal dictionary, "Honch? K?mei," also contains records of wasabi being used as a medicinal herb.

Originally a wild species, wasabi began to be cultivated in the early Edo period. Tokugawa Ieyasu, who unified Japan during the Sengoku period and became the first shogun of the Edo shogunate, was especially fond of wasabi. It is said that Tokugawa Ieyasu, who received wasabi as tribute, prohibited its unauthorized export because the leaves resembled the Tokugawa family crest. Around the 16th century, wasabi cultivation began in earnest in what is now Shizuoka City. This is why wasabi is a specialty of Shizuoka.

The practice of placing wasabi on sushi also started during the Edo period. At that time, there were no refrigeration or freezing facilities, so fish would quickly develop odors or spoil. Wasabi was used to suppress the fishy smell and bacterial growth, preventing food poisoning.

The tube-type wasabi we know today was created in the early 20th century. Since refrigeration and logistics were not as advanced, powdered wasabi made by drying and grinding wasabi?drawing inspiration from tea powder production?was introduced. Later, it evolved into the paste form commonly used now.

King Jirushi Wasabi.

However, it is worth considering why wasabi gained such a strong popularity instead of chili peppers, given that both Korea and Japan adopted chili peppers. In Korea, chili peppers became a staple ingredient and garnish from the early 19th century. Many studies have explored why chili peppers hold a prominent place in Korea while wasabi does in Japan. One explanation is that the staple foods differed. Japan has consistently ranked among the top countries in per capita seafood consumption.

This is also related to Japanese history. In 675 AD, Japan issued a slaughter ban forbidding the consumption of beef, horse, dog, monkey, and chicken meat. Even afterward, a national atmosphere discouraging meat consumption persisted for a long time, leading to a food culture that favored seafood over meat. This gave rise to various seafood dishes such as sashimi, sushi, and fried fish. In fact, it is rare in East Asian agrarian cultures to prefer seafood over meat as Japan does. On the other hand, Korea developed a food culture with relatively more meat dishes like boiled pork, making it easier for chili peppers to become established, according to Japanese research.

The appearance of unprocessed wasabi. Wasarabo.

In this way, in seafood-heavy Japan, wasabi played a crucial role as an antibacterial and preservative ingredient. Additionally, in Japan’s hot climate, the sharp taste of wasabi helped stimulate the appetite.

However, recently, even in Japan, more young people, especially children, are reported to dislike the taste of wasabi. Toyo Keizai published that "recently, high school students attribute their preference for spicy flavors not to wasabi but to chili peppers, likely influenced by exposure to Korean cuisine that uses a lot of chili powder." From the perspective of older generations, this seems regrettable, as they wonder how young people could feel this way. But it appears to be a phenomenon arising from younger generations embracing each other’s cultures. It will be interesting to see how food culture continues to evolve over time.