[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] A Place Where You Must Keep One Wish in the New Year

Granting a Wish at Haedong Yonggungsa
The Brilliant Light Festival Illuminating Haeundae
Jagalchi Market Where Life's Energy Pulsates

Busan Gijang Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, offering beautiful scenery where it meets the sea

Travelers walking along the Galmaetgil trail next to Haedong Yonggungsa Temple while watching the sunrise

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, where a legend says that one wish is always granted

There is a temple with beautiful scenery where it meets the sea. If someone visits the temple, it is hoped they carry a carefully chosen wish in their heart. If you head to the temple diligently before dawn, the rising sun against the backdrop of the temple buildings, Buddha statues, and pagodas is special, and its lingering impression is profound. The leisurely time spent exploring the temple after sunrise is a bonus. This is the story of Haedong Yonggungsa Temple located in Gijang, Busan. It is a sacred site dedicated to Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, the principal Buddha, and it is said that if you sincerely pray here, one wish will surely come true. The new year of 2025, the Year of Eulsa, is just around the corner. After a challenging 2024, take out a wish deep in your heart and run forward again in the new year.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is said to have been founded in 1376 (the 2nd year of King U of Goryeo) by the monk Naong, who served as the royal preceptor for King Gongmin. He regarded this place, with mountains behind and the sea in front, as sacred and built a cave to practice asceticism. The temple was destroyed during the Japanese invasions of Korea (Imjin War) but was rebuilt as Bomunsa Temple in the 1930s. In the early 1970s, the head monk Jeongam, who dreamed of Baekui Gwaneum (White-robed Avalokitesvara) riding a dragon ascending to heaven, renamed it Haedong Yonggungsa.

When you reach the temple entrance, you might not imagine that a vast sea will soon spread out before your eyes. Passing through a somewhat bustling food street, you encounter the imposing statues of the Twelve Zodiac Guardians. These twelve guardian deities protecting the land have animal heads and human bodies, each holding different weapons.

After passing the Twelve Zodiac Guardians, you will see the Traffic Safety Prayer Pagoda, erected to pray for the safety of citizens and protection of property. The ornate Iljumun Gate with dragon carvings on its pillars stands right in front.

Before entering the Iljumun Gate, a stone monument boldly inscribed with "Haedong Yonggungsa, where one wish is surely fulfilled" catches your eye. From here, let go of greed and focus on just one wish.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, also famous as a sunrise viewing spot

Passing through the Iljumun Gate, as you descend the 108 Bamboo Longevity Steps one by one, it feels as if the worries weighing on your mind disappear. On the steps, there is the Deuknambul (Wish for a Son Buddha), said to grant a son if you touch your nose and belly on the steps, and the Academic Achievement Buddha, surrounded by cute young monk statues.

Halfway down the steps, you hear the sound of waves and catch glimpses of the deep blue sea, rugged rocks, and the temple peeking out. First, follow the path on the left side of the steps. Finally, you see the wide open sea and the flat rocky Jeoryongdan Release Site. The golden, radiant Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, who saves sentient beings suffering in hell, sits with his back to the sea. This is the moment to appreciate the true essence of the temple embraced by the sea.

This spot is considered a famous place for watching the sunrise at Haedong Yonggungsa. On New Year's Day, the vast release site is packed with people enjoying the sunrise. On the 15th day of the lunar calendar, a full moon release ceremony is held, where fish are released into the sea.

As the sunset settles, one by one, lights turn on in the temple.

Starting from Yongduam, a dragon-head-shaped rock under the True Relic Pagoda, if you connect the temple buildings and sculptures scattered throughout Haedong Yonggungsa, the entire form of a writhing dragon is depicted. The dragon sculpture in front of the Daeungbojeon Hall is also extraordinary. While dragons are commonly seen in temples, at Haedong Yonggungsa, the dragon’s image feels more familiar and imbued with a mystical aura. The Yonggungdan Altar next to Daeungbojeon is also related to dragons. Since ancient times, dragon king worship has been passed down in this region, where fishing activities have been active. During the Joseon Dynasty, the nearby altar was moved into the temple grounds, becoming the Yonggungdan.

Following the path beside Yonggungdan, you ascend to see the Haesu Gwaneum Daebul (Great Sea Avalokitesvara Buddha) smiling kindly as it overlooks the sea. The gentle expression brings peace to the heart. Just by following the "Great Avalokitesvara of the Sea" and looking at the sea, it seems one can treat everyone with a generous heart.

Walking toward the National Institute of Fisheries Science’s Fisheries Science Museum next to Haedong Yonggungsa, you meet Busan Galmaetgil Course 1. From the Pasikdaeji here, you can take in the entire view of the temple. Stone towers built by people making wishes are clustered together. Haedong Yonggungsa’s visiting hours are from 4:30 AM to 7:00 PM, and admission is free. It takes about an hour and a half to tour the temple comfortably.

The Busan Jagalchi Market Full of the Scent of Everyday Life

The area around Haedong Yonggungsa is a famous spot revealing various geological features. Rocks formed by volcanic activity during the Cretaceous period, when dinosaurs lived, have been discovered. Systematic joint sets with consistent crack directions, marine potholes resembling dinosaur footprints, and honeycomb-like tafoni on rock surfaces can be seen here and there. The systematic joint sets are used to estimate the direction of forces applied to the rocks by measuring the crack directions.

Moving from Gijang, where Haedong Yonggungsa is located, to Busan, you can find the bustling Jagalchi Market at the end of the year. Jagalchi Market, facing the sea, is full of fresh seafood such as lively fish, octopus, small octopus, and shellfish. You can enjoy the sashimi you purchase right on the spot.

Following are the International Market, Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, and Bosudong Bookstore Street. The International Market lives up to its name, offering everything imaginable, from daily necessities to kitchenware, hardware, lighting, fabrics, accessories, and interior decorations, making it a fun place to explore.

Jagalchi Market

Don’t miss visiting the filming location of the movie "International Market" and Silbi Street, where you can enjoy cheap and hearty meals. Opposite the International Market is the historic Bupyeong Kkangtong Market. It mainly deals in produce, meat, fish, dried seafood, clothing, miscellaneous goods, and imported products.

The Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market, the first of its kind in the country, offers a variety of delicious street foods late into the night. Bupyeong Kkangtong Market was the first public market established during the Japanese colonial period. After the Korean War, it got its name from the active trade of canned goods from U.S. military bases.

Inside the large market, there are alleys of juk (rice porridge) shops, fashion streets, and hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) streets. The market handles a diverse range of products including clothing, bedding, miscellaneous goods, agricultural products, meat, and seafood.

The first Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market opened nationwide

The Spectacular Haeundae Light Festival

When it comes to Busan, Haeundae cannot be left out. The Haeundae Light Festival is in full swing to celebrate the year-end. The festival features light sculptures, media art exhibitions, and various performances, providing enjoyable sights for tourists and residents of Haeundae-gu during the year-end and New Year period.

The Haeundae Light Festival is not held in just one place. Light sculptures are installed along a 1,400-meter stretch including Gumnam-ro and the beach leading to Haeundae Beach. On the beach’s sandy area, a large structure measuring 40 meters wide and 8 meters high showcases a media facade. Visitors can enjoy the waves of light spread over a wide area while sampling various Busan delicacies at nearby shops. At 11:59 PM on the 31st, a drone show involving 1,000 drones and fireworks will be held. The light festival runs until February 2.

The Haeundae Light Festival will be held until February 2nd next year.

Busan also overflows with food. First is fish cake. It’s good to visit Samjin Fish Cake Experience & History Hall, a hot spot in Busan. It is a combined experience and exhibition hall on the second floor of the Yeongdo main branch of Samjin Fish Cake, known as the oldest fish cake manufacturer in Busan. Another specialty is cold jellyfish salad on thinly sliced jokbal (pig’s trotters) topped with a tangy mustard sauce. Don’t miss the grilled fish at Jagalchi Market. Entering the grilled fish alley, you will see masters who pile fish high and grill them with crispy skin and tender inside. Pork soup, grilled sea eel, Busan milmyeon (wheat noodles), seed hotteok (sweet pancakes), and bibim dangmyeon (spicy mixed noodles) are also must-tries.

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=By train, take the KTX from Seoul Station to Busan Station, operating frequently from 05:12 to 22:27, taking about 2 hours and 30 minutes. From Busan Station, take bus number 1001 and get off at Yonggungsa or National Institute of Fisheries Science. Haedong Yonggungsa is about a 600-meter walk from there. If traveling by car, take the Donghae Expressway (Busan-Ulsan) to Dongbusan Tollgate, drive 1.3 km → turn left toward Ulsan and Daebyeon Port, drive 545 m → at Yonggungsa Entrance Intersection, turn right toward Haedong Yonggungsa, drive 585 m → Haedong Yonggungsa parking lot.