[Digging Travel] Walking Through 100 Years... A 'Special Day' Spent in Dong-gu, Incheon

A Travel Destination Where Old Meets New, Incheon Dong-gu
Used Bookstore Alley, Traditional Liquor Experience, and Sunset Walk
Every Step Brings a New Story... An Emotion-Filled Urban Journey

On a December day when the winter wind brushed against my nose, I headed to Dong-gu, Incheon. After taking the Suin-Bundang Line from Seoul Station for about an hour, I arrived at Dongincheon Station. This place, which grew alongside the opening of the port, held stories accumulated over more than 100 years in every corner.

A scene in front of a bookstore in Baedari Used Bookstore Alley.
[Photo by Incheon Dong-gu Office]

At 10 a.m., I arrived at my first destination, Baedari Culture Street. Formed after the port opened in 1883, this area was named 'Baedari' because there used to be a pier where rice was loaded and transported. Among the red brick modern buildings, cafes and workshops had settled in, creating a unique atmosphere by renovating only the interiors while leaving the old buildings intact.

The Baedari Used Bookstore Street featured in the scene where Gong Yoo and Kim Go-eun walk together in episode 6 of the tvN drama "Goblin."
[Photo by tvN]

The used bookstore street, formed since the 1950s, seemed as if time had stopped. Along the narrow alley, about a dozen used bookstores were tightly packed. Following my feet, I entered one bookstore and purchased an old poetry collection by poet Kim Chunsu on the recommendation of the owner. At first glance, it looked like just a place preserving old scenery, but perhaps because of that natural scene from the past, it is also loved as a filming location for many movies and dramas. Notably, the bookstore scene in the drama 'Dokkaebi' was filmed here.

Passing through the used bookstore alley, I noticed stylish cafes run by young people. These cafes, established through the 'Youth Connection Project,' preserved the charm of old buildings while adding a modern sensibility. The morning spent reading the poetry collection I bought along with a cup of Americano was special.

Mandu Jeongol at 'Baedari Yet Son Mandu' located in Baedari Culture Street.
Photo by Kim Heeyoon

For lunch, I naturally headed to 'Baedari Yetson Mandu,' located in Baedari Culture Street. The handmade dumplings, carefully crafted, and the clear broth made from anchovies and kelp lingered on my palate. The meat dumplings had a mild taste with various vegetables blending with the meat, and the kimchi dumplings boasted a spicy and intense flavor that kept drawing me back. This 'Baedari Yetson Mandu' shop is operated by the Baedari Cooperative, where village residents gather to make traditional food and especially focus on creating jobs for the elderly while developing products for local tourism. Indeed, perhaps because of the elder’s touch, the taste was deep yet mild.

Na Yoon-kyung, CEO of traditional liquor manufacturing company Kkuljudang. Kkuljudang operates a traditional liquor and fermented food experience school.
[Photo by Kim Hee-yoon]

At 2 p.m., I visited the traditional liquor cultural space 'Kkuljudang.' Here, they operate a two-hour experience program where you can make Makgeolli yourself. Starting with an explanation from CEO Na Yoon-kyung, the Makgeolli making began in earnest. The spreading fermentation scent during the process of mixing prepared steamed rice with nuruk, crushing it, and mixing with water was impressive. The words, "In four weeks, you will be able to taste the Makgeolli you made yourself," already sparked anticipation. After the experience, I was able to taste various traditional liquors brewed here. Taking a sip of the triple-filtered old premium liquor felt like a new world unfolding before my eyes, with the aroma and taste captivating my nose, tongue, eyes, and brain.

A traditional liquor brewing experience center operated by Kkuljudang. You can brew Makgeolli on-site and take it home yourself.
[Photo by Heeyoon Kim]

Our ancestors classified unfiltered fermented liquor as 'Bae' (?), liquor filtered twice as 'Bal' (醱), liquor filtered three times as 'Ju' (酎), the base liquor or takju after the first fermentation as 'Ryo' (?), liquor brewed again using previously made liquor as 'Du' (?), and the act of brewing liquor as 'Yang' (釀). The liquor filtered three times was considered the highest grade and was named 'Chun' (春). Compared to twice-brewed Iyangju, its taste was deeper, the aroma unique, and the color rather clear.

CEO Na developed a local Makgeolli called 'Geumchang Makgeolli' and introduced it, making this brewery a new tourist attraction. She wished to be remembered not as a CEO but as a 'liquor artist,' and like a writer or painter, her hands brewing liquor contained the scent, taste, and hidden charm of Dong-gu, maturing together.

Sunset viewed from Manseok Hwasu Pier Coastal Walkway.
Photo by Heeyoon Kim

As the sun began to set, I visited Manseok Hwasu Pier Coastal Walkway. Recently renovated, this 1.5 km walkway offered various views of Incheon Port. The scenery of container ships coming and going, the distant Yeongjong Bridge, and the red-tinted sunset were so beautiful that it felt a shame to just capture them with a camera. Photo zones set up along the walkway attracted people trying to take perfect shots during their stroll.

Nearby, Hwadojin Park is also worth a visit. Hwadojin Dongheon, a naval camp from the Joseon Dynasty, was hosting a traditional tea program, allowing visitors to wash away the afternoon fatigue and enjoy a moment of relaxation with a cup of tea.

Hwadojin Park, which was a naval camp during the Joseon Dynasty.
Photo by Kim Heeyoon

Reflecting on the day’s journey, I realized that the charm of Dong-gu is by no means light. The traces of modern times and contemporary sensibility harmonize, and with the creative attempts of young people added, this place continuously creates new stories. The small joys discovered through direct experience and walking made the trip even more special.

Just over an hour by subway from Seoul, it is a distance that can be fully explored in a day trip. On weekends, it is also good to use the tour program with cultural tourism guides. From the cafe street born through urban regeneration to alleys where a hundred years of history breathe, Incheon Dong-gu is definitely an attractive travel destination you will want to visit again.