Symbol of Modern Korean History, Bungeoppang... Now 1000 Won per Piece Era [Matjalal X File]

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Bungeoppang, a Snack Reflecting the Sorrows of Modern Korean History

When the cold wind starts to blow, I carry a few 1000-won bills with me. This is to buy winter street snacks like freshly baked Bungeoppang and roasted sweet potatoes. In the late 1990s, one 1000-won bill could buy ten Bungeoppang. I remember sharing them with all the neighborhood friends. By the mid-2010s, the price of Bungeoppang rose to four pieces for 1000 won. This year, the price has soared so much that it’s hard to get full with just 1000 won.

A vendor is baking bungeoppang at a bungeoppang shop inside Gwangjang Market, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Photo by Yonhap News

"With flour and gas prices all rising... only two Bungeoppang for 1000 won."

This is an article Asia Economy reported just two years ago, but even that feels like a different era now. Following the Bungeoppang map released by Danggeun Market, you could usually buy three pieces for 2000 won in Seoul. In expensive areas like Gangnam or Yeouido, the price per piece goes up to 1000 or 1500 won. While we understand the situation as prices soar, it’s bittersweet that the price of Bungeoppang, which once briefly warmed frozen hearts in winter, has skyrocketed.

Nevertheless, these days, just living in a 'Bungse-gwon'?an area where you can taste freshly baked Bungeoppang?is something to be thankful for. The street vendors selling Bungeoppang, once seen around every corner, are becoming harder to find. Due to rising ingredient costs and unprofitable margins, more and more vendors are quitting their businesses.

From a Common Snack to 'Gold (Geum)' Bungeoppang

How did Bungeoppang, once a common snack for the working class, become 'Gold (Geum)' Bungeoppang? To make Bungeoppang, you need flour, red beans, oil, and fuel?all of which have increased in price. Let’s start by looking at red beans, an essential ingredient in Bungeoppang. According to Korea Price Information, as of November, the price of domestic red beans is 541,783 won per 40kg. Compared to 367,905 won five years ago, that’s a 47% increase.

The sharp rise in red bean prices is closely related to 'climateflation.' From the sprouting period to flowering between July and September, heatwaves, droughts, and heavy rains continued, devastating red bean crops. Most vendors, burdened by the high price of domestic red beans, switched to imported ones, but the situation is similar there. The price of imported red beans as of November is 264,550 won per 40kg, up 52% from 173,733 won five years ago.

The cost burden of other ingredients is also growing. According to Statistics Korea, the prices of flour and cooking oil rose 5.1% and 5.9% respectively compared to the previous month. On top of this, LPG gas prices have increased, ushering in the era of 1000-won per Bungeoppang.

From Japanese Taiyaki to Korean 'Bungeoppang'

Looking into the history of Bungeoppang reveals the sorrows of Korean history. The most widely accepted theory is that Bungeoppang originated from the Japanese Taiyaki. In Japan during the 1900s, bread made by baking flour dough filled with red beans was popular, and among them, the expensive sea bream-shaped bread was the most popular. Taiyaki was introduced to Korea during the Japanese colonial period, but it became well-known after the Korean War when flour was supplied through American aid.

Crossing the East Sea, this snack transformed from Taiyaki to Bungeoppang and became a staple street food for decades. In the book There Is a Genealogy Even in Bungeoppang: The History of Street Food Loved by Koreans, author Yoon Deok-no writes, “Bungeoppang contains the hardships experienced by grandfathers, grandmothers, parents, and siblings. Closely, during the industrial development era of the 1960s and 70s, our parents and siblings, called 'gongdori' and 'gongsuni,' saved every penny by substituting meals with Bungeoppang.”

The popularity of Bungeoppang, tied to poverty, waned in the 1980s with the emergence of premium snacks but experienced a resurgence after the 1997 financial crisis. Many unemployed people jumped into Bungeoppang vending, leading to an oversupply. It is no exaggeration to say that Bungeoppang reflects the turbulent modern history of Korea.

Now, Bungeoppang priced at 1000 won per piece holds a different status. A family of four eating two pieces each would spend 8000 won, making it awkward to call it a working-class snack. However, thinking of the hot, crispy dough filled with sweet red bean paste, it’s hard to give up this delicious food. Though not as often as before, to beat the 'Monday blues,' I must buy Bungeoppang from the famous 'OO Ssal Sanghoe' in the neighborhood, known for its fully stuffed filling.