[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Not Jealous of Geumgangsan, Passing 12 Waterfalls of Naeyeonsan and the Scenic Salted River Gorge

Each Waterfall with Unique Charm at Naeyeonsan 12 Falls, Pohang
Feel the Spirit of Geomjae Jeongseon at Sogeumgang Observatory
Enchanting Healing Under the Geumgang Pine at Bogyeongsa Temple

Autumn colors of Naeyeonsan and Haksodae viewed from the road to Sogeumgang Observatory.

Yeonsan Waterfall and Seonildae viewed from Sogeumgang Observatory

Yeonsan Waterfall, considered the best among the 12 waterfalls of Naeyeonsan

Salt Gangjeong Observatory built on a rocky cliff

People embarking on the Naeyeonsan 12 Waterfalls trekking

It is common for valley streams to decrease and waterfalls to become smaller as you ascend a mountain. However, Naeyeonsan, located in the Songra-myeon area of Buk-gu, Pohang-si, Gyeongbuk, is different?the higher you go into the valley and up the mountain, the greater the water volume. As a result, there are 12 magnificent waterfalls along the valley. Each has a unique shape and overflowing personality, as if competing to be the most beautiful. Naeyeonsan proudly ranks among the Korea Forest Service’s 100 famous mountains, attracting attention as a year-round hiking destination. Among various hiking courses, the route starting from Bogyeongsa Temple is the most popular. Visitors enjoy trekking along the waterfall trail to Yeonsan Waterfall without climbing all the way to the mountain summit. The rocky formations around Yeonsan Waterfall offer breathtaking scenery rarely seen in any other mountain in the country. The round trip from the parking lot to Yeonsan Waterfall is about 5 km with gentle elevation changes, making it an easy stroll for people of all ages. The trail is well-maintained with gentle slopes and resilient wooden decks. This journey starts at Bogyeongsa, passes Yeonsan Waterfall, then the 8th waterfall, Eunpokpo, and continues to the Sogeumgang Observatory before returning to Bogyeongsa. It is a path where you can enjoy the diverse scenic wonders of Naeyeonsan.

Millennium-old Temple Bogyeongsa

Geumgang Pine Forest Trail next to Bogyeongsa Temple

The tranquil temple Bogyeongsa greets visitors with the sound of wind chimes hanging from the eaves and the smoke rising from the kitchen chimney, evoking a warm feeling. Bogyeongsa is a thousand-year-old temple built during the reign of King Jinpyeong of Silla. The founder, Monk Jimyeong, received an eight-sided mirror (Bogyeong) from a Taoist during his studies in the Jin dynasty. It was said that building a Buddha hall on this mirror would protect against Japanese pirate invasions and eventually unify the Three Kingdoms. Thus, the eight-sided Bogyeong mirror was enshrined in the Naeyeonsan valley, and the temple was built atop it?this is Bogyeongsa.

Just outside the temple grounds, you can encounter the spectacular sight of red-colored Korean red pine trees (Geumgangsong) twisting skyward, resembling a dragon ascending to heaven. These towering pines are as valuable a landmark as Bogyeongsa itself.

As you enter the valley trail, the sound of water intensifies. Waterfalls are endless along this path. On the way to Yeonsan Waterfall, which most hikers visit, there are Sangsaeng Waterfall, Bohyeon Waterfall, Sambo Waterfall, Jamryong Waterfall, Mupung Waterfall, and Gwaneum Waterfall. Beyond these are Eunpokpo, Bokho 1 and 2, Sil, and Simyeong Waterfalls. Each one boasts a unique appearance, pouring out majestic streams of water. It’s astonishing how so much water springs from a mountain under 1000 meters above sea level...

Sangsaeng Waterfall, the first of the 12 Naeyeon Falls

Sangsaeng Waterfall

Hiker walking on a deepening autumn forest trail

About 30 minutes into the hike, the first waterfall, Sangsaeng Waterfall, appears. Formerly called Sajasangpok or Ssangpok, it is now known as Sangsaeng Waterfall. The water cascades down in two streams, creating a grand spectacle.

Next is Bohyeon Waterfall. The scenery of the rocky cliff combined with the waterfall is breathtaking. Sambo, Jamryong, and Mupung Waterfalls are not far behind. The bath scene in the movie “Nambu-gun” was filmed below Jamryong Waterfall, and the stunning views of Naeyeonsan valley also appeared in the film “Autumn.”

Detailed signboards along the way provide stories about each location and serve as accurate guides for first-time hikers. Following the sounds of water and birdsong leads to the entrance of Bohyeonham. Continuing straight along the path leads to Yeonsan Waterfall, while turning right takes you to the Sogeumgang Observatory. First, head toward Gwaneum Waterfall and Yeonsan Waterfall, the most outstanding among Naeyeonsan’s many waterfalls. Gwaneum Waterfall is lined with rocks full of holes, and above it hangs a cloud bridge. Crossing the cloud bridge leads to a dead-end mountain path where the majestic Yeonsan Waterfall thunders down.

The most favorite Gwaneum Waterfall among people looking for inner peace

The water stream of Naeyeonsan Valley is flowing refreshingly.

Hikers enjoying Eunpokpo, the eighth waterfall

Standing 30 meters high and 40 meters wide, the roaring sound of water bursting from Yeonsan Waterfall is said to clear one’s mind, making it the top choice among the 12 waterfalls. Approaching closely, the mist from the waterfall continuously hits your face. It seems even ancient visitors were captivated by Yeonsan Waterfall, as many Chinese characters are engraved on the surrounding rocks.

The rocky formations around Yeonsan Waterfall offer scenery rarely seen in any mountain nationwide. Moreover, observatories built on cliffs on both sides allow visitors to view this landscape in three dimensions.

You can end your waterfall journey here with no regrets. However, if time permits, it is highly recommended to visit Eunpokpo, the 8th waterfall, and then descend via the Sogeumgang Observatory.

With every turn of the mountain corner, the autumn breeze and carpet of fallen leaves make walking so soft and pleasant that you hardly notice the effort. Rest your legs on the grand rocks of Eunpokpo before heading toward the Sogeumgang Observatory. To see Naeyeonsan’s best scenery, visiting the observatory is a must. The observatory is shaped like a flat U, resembling a skywalk suspended in the air. It does not sway or cause fear, so it is thrilling but not scary.

Standing on the Sogeumgang Observatory, you can see the distant Pohang front sea.

Yeonsan Waterfall and Cloud Bridge Surrounded by Strange Rock Formations

From the Sogeumgang Observatory, you can immediately understand why the area is called Sogeumgang without even reading the guide. Below the softly layered ridges lies the rugged Haksodae cliff, carved and weathered over many years, standing steadfast as the valley’s backdrop. Above it is Seonildae, and the mist-raising Yeonsan Waterfall completes a picturesque landscape like a traditional Korean landscape painting. The red and yellow hues of Sogeumgang’s scenery are truly exquisite. Viewing Naeyeonsan’s panorama from the observatory, you can feel how the true-view landscape paintings by the renowned artist Jeong Seon began here 300 years ago.

Naeyeonsan can also be climbed from the Haok Valley side. This is a more serious hiking course ascending toward Hyangrobong Peak (930m), which Naeyeonsan oversees. The view from Hyangrobong’s summit is also not to be missed. On clear days, you can see Homigot and the East Sea beyond from the peak.

◆Travel Notes

▲Getting there= From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway and exit at Yeongcheon Interchange. Follow National Route 4 to Yeongcheon, then take National Route 28 to Bogyeongsa Temple in Naeyeonsan, Pohang.

▲Attractions= Gyeongsangbuk-do Arboretum, Pohang Canal, Jukdo Market, Yeongildae, Homigot, Skywalk, Japanese House Street, and many other attractions.

Bokbulgogi

▲Food= Restaurants serving mountain vegetable set meals line the entrance to Bogyeongsa. If you visit Pohang, Jukdo Market is a must. Fresh and affordable sashimi can be found anywhere in the market. Although Saepohang Mulhoe Restaurant in Bukbu Market near Jukdo Market is famous, most mulhoe (cold raw fish soup) in Jukdo Market tastes similar. The local favorite hidden gem, Gaemi Guksibang, is famous for its Bokbulgogi (spicy pufferfish stew) (photo).