Harsh Generosity, No Overcharging... Jeju Restaurants Charging '10,000 Won' Per Meal Per Person [Digging Travel]

Experience Sootdo Camellia Flowers, Sangumburi Silver Grass, and Yacht Tours
Galbi, Momguk, Duruchigi... 10,000 Won Meals at 'Affordable Price Restaurants'

Jeju is considered a perfect travel destination in every aspect, from its scenery to its location. Embarking on a journey that follows Jeju’s unique beauty and local culture is always an exciting experience for travelers.

However, this year Jeju faced several challenges, including the pork belly and chicken abuse incidents, price gouging due to the weak yen, and controversies over high prices. The peak season, which should have been bustling, saw more foreign tourists, and the domestic tourism balance recorded a deficit of 5.4 billion dollars in the first half of the year.

On a Friday afternoon, I booked a flight ticket to Jeju Island. This trip was themed around ‘cost-effectiveness.’ I wanted to personally find ways to fully enjoy Jeju’s charm on a limited budget.

Momguk, the signature dish of Kim Heeseon's Jeju Momguk.
Photo by Kim Heeyoon

The True Taste Infused in Jeju, Kim Hee-seon Momguk

After leaving the airport and savoring Jeju’s breeze, the first destination was ‘Kim Hee-seon Momguk’ in Yongdam, Jeju City. This place offers traditional Jeju cuisine at reasonable prices and is a must-visit spot for budget-conscious travelers. Momguk is a Jeju specialty made by boiling meat broth with the seaweed mozamban and hand-pulled dough flakes called sujebi. The moment you take your first spoonful, an unexpectedly deep flavor resonates on your palate.

The long-simmered broth, the sea-scented mozamban, and the mild harmony of sujebi create an unusually profound taste. Besides momguk, you can also enjoy gosari yukgaejang (bracken fern spicy soup) and sea urchin seaweed soup here, and the combination with grilled mackerel is an unforgettable delicacy. There is even a special event where customers named ‘Kim Hee-seon’ receive grilled mackerel for free, so don’t miss this unique experience.

Jeju Seogwipo Daejeong M1971 Sunset Yacht Tour.
Photo by M1971

Masters of the Sea, Meeting Wild Dolphins

The M1971 yacht dock in Daejeong, Seogwipo, Jeju, is a special place to encounter wild dolphins. The ‘Dolphin Eco Tour Sunset,’ departing at 4:30 PM, offers a chance to get close to dolphins while admiring the stunning sunset that paints the sea red. As the afternoon sun begins to set, the yacht cuts through the waves, and curious Jeju southern bottlenose dolphins can be observed nearby. Witnessing the dolphins’ movements up close is astonishingly free and graceful. By the end of the tour, the red sunset colors the western sea.

The signature dish of Seogwipo Dongho Galbi, Spicy Octopus Galbi Jjim.
Photo by Kim Heeyoon

The Delicacy of Fresh Pork Ribs, Dongho Galbi in Seogwipo

For dinner, I chose ‘Dongho Galbi’ in Seogwipo, a restaurant specializing in fresh pork ribs. At just 22,000 KRW for 300g, it offers the essence of Jeju black pork. While most think of marinated pork ribs, here they serve plain fresh ribs. The pork ribs, rich in meaty aroma, are a hidden menu item proudly recommended by the owner. Actually, the signature dish of Dongho Galbi is the ‘Whole Octopus Spicy Galbijjim’?the chewy texture of whole octopus combined with juicy ribs and spicy seasoning creates a moment where the clinking of soju glasses fills every table. It is very popular among tourists who want to enjoy cost-effective spicy pride dishes in Jeju.

Camellias in full bloom at Gyullimseong and the snow-covered Hallasan visible in the distance.
[Photo by Jeju Tourism Association]

A Place Where Breath Gathers and Rest Begins, Sumdo Gyullimseong

The next morning, I hurried to ‘Sumdo Gyullimseong,’ a place full of Jeju’s nature, where you want to take a deep breath just as the name suggests. This place transforms into a hydrangea garden in summer and a camellia garden in winter. The various plants that have grown with nature over a long time offer a serene beauty that brings peace to the heart, naturally inspiring admiration.

Especially, the garden made of stone arrangements (seokbujak) creates a landscape like a traditional Korean painting, reflecting the care to preserve nature as it is. The seokbujak, made by placing Jeju native plants on Jeju’s representative basalt soil, adds an artistic atmosphere as if capturing nature’s art. It feels like viewing a landscape painting compressing mountains and fields. Walking along the trails, you can enjoy a variety of flowers such as balloon flowers, azaleas, pampas grass, and chrysanthemums, fully experiencing Jeju’s diverse seasons.

Seokbujak is a work that beautifully harmonizes wild grasses made from plants native to Jeju with basalt, the representative rock distributed in Jeju. Depending on the shapes of the stones and plants, it can create various atmospheres.
[Photo by Seokbujak Museum]

The botanical garden spread over about 10,000 pyeong (approx. 33,000 square meters) stops visitors in their tracks, and the native plants resting on stones showcase Jeju’s unique charm. It is recommended for family travelers, offering various activities such as horseback riding, go-karting, and shooting. With a theme park, gallery, and outdoor waterfall, it provides travelers with freshness from nature and relaxation.

Also notable here is the ‘Sound of Island Hall.’ The owner personally selected 150,000 LP records, making it a paradise for music lovers. Time spent with music echoing in this tranquil space brings a state of mind free from worries. Additionally, at ‘Sumdo Cafe,’ you can enjoy a fragrant cup of coffee in a peaceful atmosphere.

The crispy vegetables and the chewy texture of Jeju black pork come together in Saeseoul Duruchigi's 'Black Pork Duruchigi'.

Sincerity Felt at a Simple Table, Saeseoul Duruchigi

For lunch on the second day, I visited ‘Saeseoul Duruchigi’ in Seogwipo. Their duruchigi, a stir-fried dish combining Jeju black pork and crunchy vegetables, is offered at an unbelievable price of just 8,000 KRW. The highlight here is how to enjoy the fried rice. I was recommended to leave some meat and vegetables and add rice at the end to stir-fry. The taste of black pork blended with bean sprouts, radish strips, and green onion strips goes beyond simple food, and its flavor is not overpowering, making it easy to enjoy anytime.

Silver grass field inside the San-gumburi crater in Jeju.
[Photo by Korea Tourism Organization]

The Quiet Beauty of Silver Grass Waves, Sangumburi

We moved to ‘Sangumburi,’ a scene that represents Jeju. ‘Gumburi’ means a volcanic crater. Inside the crater left by the volcano, a wide grassland and silver grass blend to create a natural painting. The harmony of the green grassland and the white swaying silver grass becomes a picture, and while many people scatter around, I felt as if time had stopped just for me. The silver grass field here sways gently in the wind, and the silvery waves soon greet me like brilliant waves.

Walking on the lava rocks and lichens blooming between them, it feels as if nature speaks to me with every step, and the stones that have come together welcome me. Naturally, I listen to Jeju’s whispers of nature. Upon reaching the summit, the view of Seongsan Ilchulbong and several oreums (volcanic cones) captivates my gaze. The expressions of Jeju I saw there remain unforgettable. Feeling the splendor of silver grass and green grasslands, I slowly engraved Jeju in my heart.

The Grand Seomoreum Hotel.
[Photo by The Grand Seomoreum Hotel]

A Seaside Sanctuary, The Grand Seomorum Hotel

The accommodation for this trip was ‘The Grand Seomorum Hotel’ in Seogwipo. Overlooking Beomseom Island and the sea, it offers Jeju’s characteristic generous scenery. The two large outdoor swimming pools and heated jacuzzis catch the eye right at the entrance, and thanks to Jeju’s mild climate, swimming is possible until November. Of course, even in cold seasons, you can enjoy water activities and relaxation in the indoor pool.

The charming coastline of Seogwipo, especially the scenic view overlooking Beomseom Island, refreshed my spirit. The open landscape elevated the quality of rest, compensating more than enough for the relatively distant airport. Also, while providing luxurious service and comfortable room conditions, it maintains a reasonable price compared to high-end hotels, boasting a high revisit rate among travelers who prioritize cost-effectiveness.

Outdoor grand pool view of The Grand Seomoreum Hotel. [Photo by The Grand Seomoreum Hotel]

The diverse breakfast menu made with local Jeju ingredients is excellent, but the dish locals recommend most is the Chinese-style jjambbong served at lunch. The rich and spicy broth combined with the chewy noodles carries a deep flavor reminiscent of Jeju’s great nature.

After a short 2-day, 1-night trip to Jeju, on the way back, I realized that the word ‘cost-effectiveness’ contained more than just simple value. This trip, including airfare, accommodation, meals, and tours, cost about 300,000 KRW and was a journey of stories as well as price. With a shy childlike sensitivity, I wanted to fully embrace all the tastes and scenery of Jeju. The small gifts Jeju gave me are deeply engraved as new memories in my heart, making me look forward to the day I return. Jeju, isn’t it a place endlessly beautiful, calling me back and waiting?