[AKyung Wine Cellar] Napa Valley's 'King of Cabernet Sauvignon' in the US

<11> U.S. 'Caymus Vineyards'

7 Generations of Napa Valley Native Winemaking Family
'Special Selection', the Only Wine Twice Ranked No.1 by Wine Spectator
Cabernet Sauvignon Known for Its Rich Fruity Aroma

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when using grapes grown on the same land each year, produced and aged in the same way, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are made and matured according to their unique circumstances.

Caymus Vineyard's 50th Anniversary 'Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon'

Napa Valley, reachable by driving about an hour north from San Francisco, California. The Wappo tribe, indigenous people who once lived in this area, called it Napa, meaning 'land of abundance,' as it was filled with salmon and waterfowl. Besides wildlife, wild grapes also grew abundantly in Napa Valley, and early settlers like George Yount recognized the potential of this land in the 1830s and began cultivating grapes.

The first commercial winery in Napa Valley was established in 1861, and by 1889, the number had grown to about 140, marking a thriving industry. However, Napa Valley became known as the premier wine region not only in California but in the United States much later, with the arrival of Robert Mondavi in 1966 widely regarded as the starting point. Unlike Europe, where wine labels specify the production region, Mondavi introduced the practice of indicating grape varieties on labels, among other technological innovations and strategic marketing efforts, elevating American wine to a level comparable to European wines. After Robert Mondavi's emergence, wineries in Napa Valley grew rapidly. Notably, the 1976 blind tasting competition against French wines, famously called the 'Judgment of Paris,' decisively showcased the outstanding quality of Napa wines to the world.

Since then, Napa Valley has solidified its status as the premier wine region of the New World. However, with time, generational change became inevitable. Founders and innovators who led Napa Valley's growth since the 1970s gradually passed away, and winery operations transitioned to second and third generations. During this process, many wineries were put up for sale, as some successors lost interest in grape cultivation and winemaking. The Robert Mondavi Winery was no exception, being acquired by the beverage conglomerate Constellation Brands in 2004, and domestically, Shinsegae acquired Shafer Vineyards in 2022.

Cabernet Sauvignon from K-Mars Vineyard.

It is not necessarily negative that winery ownership leaves the hands of founders and their families. The infusion of large capital can lead to modernization of facilities and systematization of winemaking, resulting in improved wines. Above all, vineyards and wines inevitably lose strength when in the hands of owners who have lost passion; thus, it may be better for enthusiastic new winemakers or ambitious entrepreneurs to take over.

However, ownership changes often bring various changes, positive or negative, which can be disappointing for those who loved the founding philosophy or the winemaker’s touch. Although ownership changes are particularly active in Napa Valley, there is a winery that has been cultivating vineyards and making wine with family strength for over a century, maintaining its reputation. Emphasizing the value of family management, 'Caymus Vineyards,' celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, is that winery.

A view of the vineyard at K-Mars Vineyard.

"Irreplaceable" Richly Flavored Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

"Our family has lived in Napa Valley for seven generations and has loved this place. By working the land ourselves, we have gained insights into grape cultivation and winemaking that cannot be found in any farming manual or book." < Chuck Wagner, Owner Winemaker of Caymus >

The history of Caymus Vineyards began with the Wagner family from Alsace, France. In 1906, Carl Wagner purchased 70 acres of vineyard land in Rutherford, Napa Valley, and planted grapevines. From 1915, wine production started under the name Wagner Winery. The winery was successful, producing about 30,000 gallons (approximately 113,500 liters) annually, but declined after Prohibition in 1919, reducing operations to small-scale wine production alongside other crops like plums and walnuts.

The turning point came with Carl’s son, Charlie Wagner, and his wife, Rhona. Believing in the future of wine grapes, they removed existing crops in the 1960s and planted high-quality varieties such as Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon on their land. Their grapes gradually gained recognition for quality and were sold to nearby wineries. Eventually, they decided to focus entirely on winemaking based on their high-quality grapes. Thus, Caymus Vineyards was born in 1972.

Chuck Wagner and Charlie Wagner Sr. at the founding of Caymus Vineyard in 1972.

Although Charlie and Rhona founded Caymus, it was their son Chuck Wagner who made the winery what it is today. Chuck, who had been involved in winemaking alongside his father since the winery’s inception, produced wines with rich character and complexity from the first year. Especially, having grown up in Rutherford, he showed innate talent in cultivating and making Cabernet Sauvignon, with a perfect understanding of the region’s terroir.

Rutherford, where Caymus is rooted, is a slightly elevated plain with well-drained gravelly sandy soil. This soil type has a high solar radiation value, causing grapes to ripen quickly, resulting in wines with more intense flavors compared to other Napa Valley regions. For this reason, Rutherford has a very high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon cultivation, which requires warmth to fully ripen.

Caymus wines are characterized by a 'rustic yet noble' style summarized by deep color, rich fruit flavors, complex aromas, and velvety tannins. Park Jung-hee, head of Caymus Vineyards Asia, emphasized that the key to Caymus’s signature style is the principle of maximizing 'hangtime'?the length of time from flowering to harvest. He explained, "Caymus lets the grapes ripen fully until the seeds turn brown, which softens and rounds the tannins. Although Caymus wines are technically extra dry with almost no residual sugar, their strong fruit aromas make them taste sweet due to their rich concentration and excellent maturation."

Wine Spectator 'Wine of the Year' Twice at No. 1... A Unique Record

Owner and winemaker of K-Mars Vineyard, Chuck Wagner.

Chuck Wagner earned the nickname 'King of Cabernet Sauvignon' largely due to the 'Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon.' In 1975, Chuck identified barrels of Cabernet Sauvignon with exceptional taste and separated them to release under the new name Special Selection. This wine achieved the unique record of being named Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year twice: first in 1989 for the 1984 vintage, and again five years later for the 1990 vintage.

Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the Special Selection is a wine with bold power, direct character, and deep concentration. It has an unusually intense color and density, with deliberately unrestrained strong oak aromas layered with blackcurrant, mocha, black cherry, and plum scents that unfold dynamically. Despite its substantial tannin content, it is smooth, with a long finish and excellent texture.

'Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon'

Another strength of Caymus is its consistency in quality. Chuck Wagner aims to produce wines with no vintage variation despite differing grape-growing conditions each year. Caymus cultivates vineyards across eight of Napa Valley’s 16 sub-AVAs, ranging from mountainous to flat terrains. By blending grapes from these diverse vineyards, they create Cabernet Sauvignon with outstanding complexity, remarkable concentration and intensity of fruit, full yet supple tannins, and excellent balance.

This approach is well exemplified by the 'Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,' the best-selling wine representing Caymus’s signature style. It boasts rich dark cherry and blackberry fruit aromas, delicate vanilla notes, cocoa, dark chocolate, sweet tobacco complexities, smooth tannins, perfect balance, and a long-lasting finish.

The Wagner Family’s 'Caymus' Story Continues to the Next Generation

Owner of K-Mars Vineyard, Chuck Wagner, and his daughter Jenny Wagner, and son Charlie Wagner Jr.

Chuck Wagner, who began winemaking at nineteen and is now in his seventies, continues the Caymus story, which remains a work in progress. Among Chuck’s four children, Charlie and Jenny work alongside him, farming and carrying on the family legacy. They add diverse colors to Caymus Vineyards through their independent brands. The two also share the responsibility of selecting wines for the Special Selection in private tastings with Chuck.

Charlie Wagner broke Caymus’s tradition of focusing on single-varietal wines by creating the blended wine brand 'Conundrum' and produces Chardonnay wines under the 'Mer Soleil' label. Jenny Wagner focuses on Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc under the brand 'Emmolo,' named after her mother’s maiden name. Chuck’s second son, Joseph Wagner, has also made a name as a renowned winemaker outside Caymus, successfully launching two brands, 'Meiomi' and 'Quilt,' centered on Pinot Noir. It is interesting that each family member excels in different grape varieties.

"We deeply consider ourselves farmers. That is why our family winery was established and continues to help differentiate us in quality and innovation today."

A view of the vineyard at K-Mars Vineyard.