[Joyongjun's Travel Stories] Why Scholars of the Past Insisted on Mungyeong Saejae Pass

Winding Winding Old Story Road
Following the Footsteps of Cheongunpoom
Leisurely Walking the Old Path
Juhulgwan-Suokpokpo 10km

It is best to start the Mungyeong Saejae Old Road from Juhulgwan and finish by walking about 10 kilometers to Suok Waterfall in Yeonpung-myeon.

The path to becoming the top scholar is shrouded in mist; passing this path leads to the third gate.

People walking on the Mungyeong Saejae Hwangto Trail

Walking barefoot is trending these days. Mungyeong Saejae is also perfect for barefoot walking.

It is the golden age of walking. Leisure activities based on walking, such as walking tours, barefoot walking, hiking, and trekking, are explosively popular. Across the country, many walking-friendly paths are emerging one after another. At times like this, it might be nice to walk a path that can be called a representative old trail of Korea. It is the very path that scholars of old used to traverse to reach Hanyang for the civil service exams. This is the Mungyeong Saejae Old Trail. It is truly considered a classic among paths. It is filled with the deep fragrance emitted by an ancient road. It also holds the title of 'One of Korea's Beautiful Roads.' Especially, Mungyeong Saejae is more attractive than other old trails because the path is still alive. The dirt road stretching through the rugged Baekdudaegan mountain range is bustling with many people, just as it was in the past, full of vitality. This journey starts from Juhulgwan near Mungyeong, passes through Joryeonggwan at the mountain pass, and finishes at Suok Waterfall in Gosari, Goesan, covering a 10km old trail course. Following this rare and precious path once walked by scholars, let's embark on an autumn trip.

The term 'Saejae' in Mungyeong Saejae is the Korean reading of Joryeong (鳥嶺), meaning 'a pass so difficult that even flying birds find it hard to cross.' Another origin story says it is a pass created between Haneuljae in Mungyeong-eup and Ihwaryeong in Yeonpung-myeon, Goesan-gun. However, Mungyeong Saejae was considered a crucial point for transportation and national defense as it was the shortest route from Dongnae in Busan to Hanyang.

The first gate, Juhul Gate, the entrance to the Mungyeong Saejae Old Road trekking trail

The fortress wall continues along the rocky cliffs.

Besides Mungyeong Saejae, there are two other passes in the Yeongnam region to reach Hanyang: Jukryeong Pass and Chupungnyeong Pass. However, people going to Hanyang for the civil service exams usually avoided Jukryeong Pass fearing they might 'fail the exam' (literally 'boil the exam to death') and avoided Chupungnyeong Pass fearing they might 'fail like falling autumn leaves.' Therefore, they mainly used Mungyeong Saejae to go to Hanyang.

Setting out on the path, passing the Mungyeong Saejae parking lot, my heart fluttered upon seeing the signboard saying 'One of Korea's Beautiful Roads.' Passing the Old Trail Museum, the majestic stone gate called Juhulgwan unfolds before you.

Behind Juhulgwan stands Joryeongsan (1,025m), a rocky peak, and Juhulsan (1,075m), the main mountain of Mungyeong, together exuding an incomparable dignity. Around Juhulgwan flows a stream, and beside it stretches a wide lawn that could accommodate thousands of soldiers without feeling cramped. The long fortress wall at the edge of the lawn is impressive, but the rugged mountains surrounding the wall make it a natural fortress.

The bent pine tree in front of Gyogujeong, where the Gyeongsang-do Inspector's inauguration and farewell ceremony was held, is a masterpiece.

When walking along the old path, there are many sights to see such as valleys and ponds.

There is a unique way to enjoy the Mungyeong Saejae Old Trail. The trail is made of yellow earth (hwangto). It is recommended to take off your shoes and walk leisurely. If you don't want to walk more on the yellow earth path, you can go to Saejae Valley to wash your feet and put your shoes back on.

After passing Juhulgwan, on the left appears the KBS set used for filming the drama 'Taejo Wang Geon.' KBS built the set at Mungyeong Saejae Open Set because the mountain ranges of Joryeongsan and Juhulsan resemble Songaksan, the mountain near Kaesong, the capital of the Goryeo dynasty.

Following the quiet path again, you will come across Joryeongwon Site and Gyogujeong in sequence. Joryeongwon was an accommodation facility for old officials, and Gyogujeong was the place where the inauguration and farewell ceremonies of the Gyeongsang-do inspector were held. The bent pine tree in front of it is a masterpiece. It is good to take a moment to enjoy the valley in front of Gyogujeong.

Following the valley path a bit further, you reach Yongchu Waterfall. Also called Palwang Waterfall, this waterfall is known for its developed rock formations and beautiful valley scenery. It is said that rain rituals were held here in the past.

Palwang Waterfall will remind fans of historical dramas of a particular scene at a glance.

"It was not a short time, though life seemed like a fleeting moment, why did I crave so much? To vanish so fleetingly..."

This is a line spoken by Gung Ye to his subordinates as he met his end in the drama Taejo Wang Geon. There is a signboard with this line beside Palwang Waterfall.

A person walking on a dirt road

A fire prevention sign written in Hunminjeongeum

Continuing about 500m further, you will see a stone marker inscribed with 'Be Careful of Forest Fires' written in Hunminjeongeum (the original Korean script), and with the refreshing sound of water, Jogyok Waterfall appears. Although an artificial waterfall, just looking at it is incredibly refreshing.

Passing the waterfall, you will meet the second gate, Jogyokgwan. Entering through the gate, sleek Korean red pines welcome you, and here and there you can spot water birch trees. Surrounded by mountain ridges, Jogyokgwan, called a natural fortress, is a great place to cool off and rest with its tall pine trees, rugged cliffs, and clear valley.

Following the path toward the third gate, you will come across a fork called Jangwon Geupje-gil. As the name suggests, this was the old path used by Yeongnam scholars going to Hanyang for the civil service exams. There is Chocheom (Joryeong Mineral Spring), one of the three major sources of the Nakdong River. Also, the stone formation called Chaekbawi (Book Rock), stacked like books, is magnificent. Scholars came one by one to pray for success in the exams.

Jogok Gate, the second gate of Mungyeong Saejae

People walking past the source of the Nakdong River toward the Third Gate

The rock stacked like a book, called Chaekbawi, is said to have been visited one by one by scholars who prayed for success in the highest civil service examination.

The sky, heavily overcast, suddenly poured rain. The old trail along the valley was soon shrouded in mist. The dreamy atmosphere added a certain charm. The majestic mountains like Joryeongsan and Juhulsan were hidden in the mist, making it impossible to see even a step ahead.

Passing Chaekbawi and walking along the rain-soaked exam path like a stroll, you arrive at the pass summit where Joryeonggwan stands. This is a fairly spacious clearing with a good view of the Joryeongsan and Juhulsan areas.

Passing the under-renovation Joryeonggwan, you enter Yeonpung area of Goesan, and after descending the road a bit, you enter Joryeongsan Natural Recreation Forest.

Passing through the recreation forest, you reach Gosari Village, where the beautiful Sinseonbong (967m) towers above. From the parking lot at the three-way intersection, following the left path for about 20 minutes downhill leads to Suok Waterfall. Ending the Saejae walk by dipping your feet in the valley and watching the water cascade down a roughly 20m cliff.