[AKyung Wine Cellar] The Delicate Terroir of Mosel Creates a 'Riesling Variation'

<9> Germany's 'Markus Molitor'

The Essence of Riesling Crafted by the Delicate Terroir of Mosel, Germany
Robert Parker 100 Points, Total 22 Times... The Most Among German Wines
Emphasizing Consumer Convenience by Differentiating Wine Capsule Colors According to Sweetness Levels

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when using grapes grown on the same land each year, fermented and aged in the same way, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares one by one the stories of wines that are crafted and matured according to their unique circumstances.

A view of Marcus Molitor's 'Wehlener Klosterberg' vineyard.

"The truly beautiful thing is to bring out the differences of the vineyards during the winemaking process and allow those differences to be tasted."

Markus Molitor gazes at wine every single day without fail. He checks and rechecks whether the winemaking process is proceeding smoothly and whether the aging is happening properly. Those around him call him the 'Cellar Ghost' because he has no interest in anything other than tending vineyards and making wine.

What made him live a life devoted solely to wine as the ghost of the cellar is the terroir of the Mosel region and the infinite diversity and potential held by the Riesling grown there. Riesling, with its thousand faces, is a grape variety capable of showing endlessly diverse charms. Knowing this, he believes that not trying new approaches and producing wines in the same style out of inertia is a kind of neglect of duty.

The differences created by the direction and slope of each vineyard, the yearly variations in weather, and the resulting differences in grape ripeness and character from these cultivation conditions ? for Markus Molitor, these differences are not variables that undermine wine consistency but rather possibilities that allow the birth of various wines with unique charms.

Markus Molitor produces over 120 types of wine annually, a stark contrast to most wineries in Bordeaux, France, which produce mainly two wines: a main wine and a second wine. He is a winemaker who enjoys the diverse outcomes caused by various variables. The winery he started under his own name is 'Weingut Markus Molitor' in Mosel, Germany.

Founder Markus Molitor of 'Weingut Markus Molitor'.

A Diverse Interpretation of Terroir... Leading the Golden Age of German Riesling

The Molitor family is a historic lineage that has cultivated vineyards in the Mosel region for eight generations. However, during Markus Molitor’s parents’ generation, circumstances worsened, and the vineyard area significantly decreased. In 1984, at the age of twenty, Markus entered the wine industry with a small 1.5-hectare vineyard inherited from his father as his starting capital. Since then, based on meticulous analysis of terroir, he has consistently presented wines recognized by wine experts worldwide and beloved by consumers. Forty years after its establishment, the winery has grown into one of the top-tier wineries in the Mosel region, Germany’s premier wine area, with vineyard holdings reaching 120 hectares.

The vineyards in the Mosel region where Markus Molitor is based are mostly situated along the Mosel River on steep slopes. Due to the steep terraced structure, all work is done by hand, and the time and cost required to manage the same area are five to ten times higher than those for flat vineyards. Markus Molitor’s vineyards have slopes of over 30 degrees as a basic standard, with many exceeding 70 degrees. Vineyards like Urziger Wurzgarten have slopes reaching 85 degrees.

A view of Marcus Molitor's 'Urziger Wurzgarten' vineyard.

Although time, cost, and effort are multiplied, Mosel has become Germany’s top wine region because the terrain conditions provide clear advantages for grape cultivation. The steep slopes help grapevines receive abundant and even sunlight, and the Mosel River along with the slate soil provides a heat-retaining effect by storing solar heat during the day and releasing it at night, creating a stable environment for grapes to mature slowly and steadily. Grapes ripened slowly in Mosel develop vibrant directionality and mineral flavors, holding the potential to produce delicate and elegant wines.

Markus Molitor’s core grape variety is Riesling, which accounts for over 90% of his vineyards. Riesling, a white grape variety representing Germany and Mosel, boasts delicate and vibrant aromas of white flowers, peach, apple, and lime. To preserve its unique flavors, malolactic fermentation and oak barrel usage are rarely employed. Its high acidity allows for long-term aging, during which it develops complex and rare aged aromas. Riesling is also sensitive to soil characteristics: heavy clay soils emphasize citrus notes, red sandstone soils highlight apricot flavors, and slate soils accentuate mineral nuances. For these reasons, Riesling is regarded as a variety that transparently expresses the characteristics of terroir.

Map of Markus Molitor's vineyards along the Mosel River.

Markus Molitor judged that Riesling, which reveals the characteristics of vineyards and climate as they are, is the optimal variety for producing true terroir wines. Planted in poor, well-drained vineyards with large diurnal temperature variations, Riesling receives ample late-autumn sunlight to develop complex flavors. This results in a relatively long growing period of about 150 days from flowering to harvest, nearly one and a half times longer than Burgundy’s typical 100 days. It endures the harsh environment and long duration to achieve the highest quality.

Master of Selective Harvesting... Capsule Color Coding Enhances Consumer Convenience

Differences in grape berries according to harvest time, from Kabinet to Trockenbeerenauslese.

Riesling, a premium variety, has the potential to produce wines in various styles ranging from dry to sweet due to its excellent quality. Markus Molitor also produces diverse wines reflecting the characteristics of vineyards and vintages based on Riesling’s potential. Before winemaking, grape harvesting is delayed as much as possible to allow sufficient ripening time. Experienced staff handpick grapes multiple times, followed by additional sorting in the cellar. Through rigorous separation based on individual grape ripeness, the highest quality wines are produced, all under Markus Molitor’s leadership.

Germany, located near the northern limit of grape cultivation, places great importance on grape ripeness. The riper the grapes, the higher the sugar content and the more pronounced the aroma and flavor. Therefore, in Germany, grapes of different ripeness levels are used depending on the wine style, and classification is based on the sugar content of grape juice at harvest. The highest classification in the German wine grading system, 'Pr?dikatswein,' is divided into six subcategories according to grape ripeness.

Marcus Molitor's wine.

The most basic grade, 'Kabinett,' uses young, green grapes harvested within a week after the start of the harvest season. These wines are light, fresh, and high in acidity, with low sugar content and distinct aromas of lemon, lime, and apple. The next grade, 'Sp?tlese,' meaning 'late harvest,' is made from grapes harvested about a week later than usual, resulting in higher ripeness. Compared to Kabinett, Sp?tlese wines have more concentrated aromas and flavors, higher alcohol content, and greater body. One grade higher, 'Auslese,' is made by selectively harvesting only well-ripened bunches, resulting in higher sugar content and richer aromas.

'Beerenauslese (BA)' is a higher grade than Auslese, made by handpicking very ripe individual grapes to produce sweet wines, making it rare and limited in production. 'Eiswein,' which shares the same sugar level as BA, is made from grapes frozen by winter frost. The highest grade, 'Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA),' is made by selecting shriveled, raisin-like noble rot grapes from the vine, producing sweet wines considered among the most expensive white wines in the world.

The selection of grapes to be used for making Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) wine.

Germany’s wine classification system is famously complex, even within the industry. To prevent consumer confusion, Markus Molitor has used capsule color coding since 2007 to indicate wine sweetness levels. White capsules denote dry wines, green capsules off-dry, and gold capsules sweet wines. White and green capsules cover wines from Kabinett to Auslese, while gold capsules cover all grades from Kabinett to TBA.

White capsule wines increase in alcohol and ripe fruit flavors with higher grades. Grapes affected by noble rot are not used to maintain a clean finish. Green capsule wines balance moderate sweetness and acidity, making them ideal for pairing with food, especially spicy and salty Asian dishes or smoky, grilled meats like barbecue. Gold capsule wines are enjoyable immediately but reveal complex, alluring flavors after aging over ten years. Gold capsule wines from Auslese and above have the potential to age for over 30 years. Generally, white capsule wines are fermented in neutral 3000-liter oak barrels, while green and gold capsule wines with sweetness are fermented in stainless steel tanks.

(From the left) 'Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spatlese' and 'Kinheim Hubertuslay Auslese'. The Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spatlese on the left is a sweet wine with a gold capsule, while the Kinheim Hubertuslay Auslese, a dry wine, features a white capsule.

Markus Molitor produces over 100 types of wine annually, so not all are imported domestically. Currently, about a dozen types are imported, among which 'Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese' stands out. Made from grapes grown in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard, one of Mosel’s top-rated vineyards, this dry wine features a transparent and clean color with a crisp and fresh palate. The texture of the soil is distinctly felt, and an elegant peach aroma is particularly attractive.

A more approachable wine is 'Kinheim Hubertuslay Riesling Auslese,' made from grapes grown in the Urziger Wurzgarten vineyard. This dry wine combines intense fruit aromas with petrol notes. On the palate, it offers slight oxidative flavors, well-organized acidity, and perfect texture, creating multiple layers. Besides capsule colors, Markus Molitor also uses one to three stars (*) on labels to indicate the vintage quality. More stars mean better grape selection, reflecting thoughtful consideration for consumers.

Markus Molitor’s wines first received a perfect 100-point score from the renowned wine critic Robert Parker’s publication 'Wine Advocate' in 2013 for the 2011 vintage 'Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese.' In 2015, three wines from the 2013 vintage simultaneously received 100 points, surprising the wine world. To date, the winery has earned 22 perfect scores, making it the German winery with the most 100-point wines.

A panoramic view of 'Zeltinger Sonnenuhr,' one of the highest-rated vineyards in the Mosel region of Germany.