[Akyeong Wine Cellar] The Fool Who Opened the 'Narrow Door'... Became Koreans' Favorite Wine

<1> Chile's 'Vina Montes'

Founded in 1987 in Colchagua Valley
Chile's first hillside vineyard... Pioneer of premium wine
Dry farming... Achieving both quality and eco-friendliness

Editor's NoteNo two wines under the sky are the same. Even when using grapes grown in the same land each year, brewed and aged in the same way, the results differ every time. Wine is a 'drink of chance' created by the harmony of humans and nature. Each wine that silently disappears after leaving only a single intense memory carries an intriguing story. 'Akyung Wine Cellar' shares these stories of wines, each crafted and matured under different circumstances, one by one.

"Enter through the narrow gate. For wide is the gate and broad is the road that leads to destruction, and many enter through it. But small is the gate and narrow the road that leads to life, and only a few find it." - Matthew 7:13-14

This biblical verse inspired the French writer Andre Gide's novel La Porte etroite (The Narrow Door). Although the novel deals with and critiques the conflict between individual freedom and social and moral constraints, in reality, the narrow door surrounding us often leads to life. In the Chilean wine industry, there is a winery called 'Vina Montes' that refused the wide and broad door and instead sought out and opened the narrow door to step into a wider world. Thanks to Vina Montes' continuous challenges and its path along the narrow road less traveled, Chile has transformed from a peripheral wine region into one worthy of global attention.

A view of the 'Vina Montes' vineyard established on a slope.

The Fool Who Chose the Difficult Path…Rising as Chile's Leading Producer

Vina Montes was founded in 1987 by winemaker Aurelio Montes, who teamed up with sales and marketing expert Douglas Murray, finance specialist Alfredo Vidaurre, and vineyard cultivation expert Pedro Grand in Apalta, Colchagua Valley, one of Chile's key wine regions.

At its inception, Montes had a clear goal: to produce premium Chilean wines. Although this goal might seem ordinary, at the time, most Chilean wineries only produced low-priced wines for domestic consumption and showed little interest in premium wines. In other words, the industry was a second-tier player producing mediocre wines. However, Montes had a different vision. He believed that Chile, with its elongated territory stretching over 4,000 km north to south, possessed a diverse range of terroirs (the total natural environment surrounding vineyards) full of potential. Combined with advanced winemaking techniques, he was confident that Chile could produce high-quality wines competitive in the global market.

Chairman Aurelio Montes, founder of Vi?a Montes.

Under the banner of a 'quality revolution,' Montes ambitiously began by planting vineyards on hillsides. Today, it is industry consensus that grapes harvested from sunny slopes produce superior wines. However, at a time when Chile's wine industry focused on low-priced domestic wines, developing mountainous vineyards on steep slopes, which required significant time and investment, was a narrow door few wanted to enter. Nevertheless, Montes did not hesitate to carve into the mountainside to plant vines and was the first in Chile to cultivate the Syrah variety on a 45-degree slope.

While the industry mocked Montes for choosing the difficult path over the easy one, their ridicule was no obstacle in the face of his clear goal of producing premium Chilean wines. Grapes grown in well-drained soils, receiving ample sunlight and ripening fully, became the winery's flagship wine named 'Folly,' symbolizing 'foolishness.'

The 'Montes Folly,' a wine especially cherished by Chairman Montes, is part of the winery's top-tier 'Icon' series. It embodies pride in having opened the narrow door and pioneered a new path as the 'Chilean cult Syrah.' With ripe black fruit aromas and velvety soft tannins that provide a long finish, Montes Folly is one of the winery's finest products and boasts aging potential of over 20 years.

Montes Folly by Vi?a Montes

Since 2009, Vina Montes has also pursued the challenge of 'Dry Farming.' Dry farming is an agricultural method that entrusts the entire grape-growing process to nature, allowing minimal irrigation only under limited conditions such as drought. This approach was initiated to achieve both improved wine quality and water conservation. Because it minimizes water use, which stresses the vines, the yield decreases. However, the concentration of individual berries that absorb limited moisture intensively increases, and the tannins soften, significantly enhancing wine quality. Water usage has been reduced by an average of 65% annually and up to 80% compared to before dry farming was introduced?equivalent to the annual water consumption of about 20,000 Chileans (approximately 840,000 tons).

15 Million Bottles Sold Domestically...New Challenge in Patagonia

Vina Montes' wines are familiar to Koreans as well. In the first half of last year, the brand surpassed 15 million bottles sold domestically for the first time as a single brand, so even non-enthusiasts have likely tasted their wines at least once. Montes' wines first entered Korea in January 1998, marking a long history of importation. The wines were first introduced to Korea in September 1997 when 'Pro Chile,' a Chilean winery association leading about ten wineries, visited Korea for the first time. At that time, Naracella, seeking easy-to-drink New World wines, took notice and began official imports. Montes' recognition grew after being selected as the main wine for the gala dinner for the 2002 FIFA World Cup group draw and was used at official state banquets during the Chilean president's visit to Korea in 2003, gaining popularity and continuing to thrive.

Montes' 'Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon'

Among Montes' various lineups, the wine most loved by Koreans is undoubtedly the 'Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon.' The 'Alpha' lineup is so popular that many even mistake 'Montes Alpha' as the winery's name. In fact, Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon represents the winery's history since its founding in 1987. This wine, blended with 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, offers a complex bouquet of various berries, cigar box, vanilla, and mint aromas, presenting an overall smooth and elegant character. With moderate weight and well-structured balance, it is enjoyable young and reaches its peak after about five years of aging.

Vina Montes attributes part of its high popularity in Korea to its relatively easy-to-pronounce name and the 'angel' symbol. All Montes wine labels feature an angel image, an idea originating from co-founder Douglas Murray. Having survived two major traffic accidents, he proposed including the angel image on the label, hoping the guardian angel who protected him would also watch over the winery. Indeed, the angel image has contributed to increased trust in the wine's quality and earned the pleasant nickname 'Angel Wine,' fulfilling his wish.

A view of the aging cellar at Vi?a Montes.

Vina Montes is now preparing for a new future. Named the 'Patagonia Project,' Montes' new experiment involves planting vineyards in the Chilo? Archipelago, located 1,200 km south of Chile's capital, Santiago. The Chilo? Archipelago has been considered unsuitable for grape cultivation due to its cold and humid climate. However, Montes focused on the warming climate caused by global warming and is currently planting white grape varieties that thrive in cool regions, such as Albari?o, Riesling, Gew?rztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon Blanc, conducting various studies and trials.

Since this is a long-term project planned with the future in mind, wines made from grapes grown in this region are currently produced only in small quantities for testing purposes and have not yet been officially released to the public. However, considering that Chile mainly produces full-bodied red wines, it will be interesting for wine enthusiasts to see what flavors white and sparkling wines grown in the cool winds of this region will present.