[Euljiro Rotary] The Meaning of 'Euljiro' Shared by the Owner of Eulji Dabang, Commuting by First Bus for 40 Years

②Opened in 1985, 38 Years in One Location
3 Years Since Relocation Due to Redevelopment Issues
"Hoping to Last Long in the Vibrant Euljiro"

Park Okbun (67), owner of Eulji Dabang, is preparing a beverage. Photo by Kim Jinseon

Editor's NoteThe other name for Euljiro is 'Hipjiro.' Although the area presents a confusing scene with old buildings and alleyways mixed with reconstruction projects, it offers a unique charm in that the past and present overlap. Once facing a crisis due to industrial decline, Euljiro's vitality was revived as young people continued to visit. We meet those who have established Euljiro's distinctive sensibility and those striving to carry on its legacy, to envision the future of the city.

Park Ok-bun (67), the owner of Eulji Dabang, has been commuting to Euljiro by the first train for 40 years. Except for about two months when the Eulji Myeonok building was demolished due to the redevelopment issue of the Seun District 3-2 in Jung-gu, Seoul, she has never closed her shop. On Sundays, she opens a little later, but she never takes a day off. It has been three years since she relocated across the street (straight from Euljiro Exit 10). At first, it felt unfamiliar. She had spent 38 years in one place and never thought she would move, so it was emotionally difficult. She also felt a strong sense of loss about the commercial district.

"I can't fully express how I felt at that time. Having spent such a long time?38 years?the place held special meaning. Because of redevelopment, the Cheonggyecheon commercial district has declined so much. When you went to Cheonggyecheon, you could buy all the materials you needed, but now everything is scattered. I don't know where all the people who maintained the commercial district went. The old Cheonggyecheon is gone. They say it's for the future, but they keep cutting and demolishing buildings... I wish it had been preserved. It's very regrettable."

In March 2022, the Seun District 3-2 area, which includes the Cheonggyecheon and Euljiro areas in Seoul, saw several long-established shops designated as modern architectural assets close due to the Seun redevelopment project. Eulji Dabang and Eulji Myeonok, longtime fixtures for nearly 40 years, had to leave their customers. Since these were recognized by the Seoul city government as 'living heritage' and old shops (nopo), there was a strong voice in Jung-gu that they should not disappear. Other districts like Jongno and Mapo extended offers to relocate. Nevertheless, the reason they chose to stay in Euljiro was because of affection (jeong). Park said about Euljiro, "It is truly a living, breathing space."

Opened in 1985 on the second floor of Eulji Myeonok, Eulji Dabang's owner Park built close friendships with neighboring shop owners. She also shares a special bond with the owner of Eulji Myeonok, with whom she worked side by side for 38 years on different floors. Eulji Myeonok, which left Euljiro due to redevelopment issues, announced a new start in Nakwon-dong around April. Although they opened far away, they keep in frequent contact. Park said, "It would be nice if we were closer, and we often talked about how it was regrettable. We also said we should rest a bit and then work together somewhere nearby."

Park received much help during the relocation of Eulji Dabang as well. Suddenly having to vacate the premises, there was no suitable place to move or store the shop's items. The nearby Central Tourism Hotel's owner offered space. "I was contacted saying there was a vacant spot on the first floor where I could store my things. After finishing the interior work, I moved the items there. Without the help of neighbors, none of this would have been possible," she said.

"The relationships with neighboring shop owners are stronger than family. It’s symbiosis and shared joy. From the beginning, we shared hardships and happiness together. After closing the shop, we would have a drink together?it was really fun. These days, that’s not the case. I think COVID-19 was a big change. Who would have imagined it?"

Photos of BTS are posted in the hallway leading up to Eulji Dabang (2nd floor). Photo by Jinseon Kim

Guestbook entries left directly by foreign visitors. They vary from the interior of the store to BTS members. Photo by Jinseon Kim

Photos and autographs of BTS members are posted throughout Eulji Dabang. Among fans, it is called a BTS pilgrimage site. Korean fans have shared members' photos with foreign fans, and the drawers are full of them. The guestbook shows handwriting from foreign fans using translation tools. Inside the shop, there are various items from paintings to the owner’s portrait. Park expresses deep gratitude but emphasizes that the most important thing is the 'customers.' "Even if offered millions, I don’t want to allow filming. I worry that visitors from far away might make a wasted trip because of filming or renting the space. I don’t want to disappoint the customers," she said. She also has affection for the shop’s belongings.

"There are many items inside the shop that cannot be replaced. Some say I should buy new ones because they are old, but people like us can’t throw away things that are still usable. Some think I use props to create an old-fashioned feel, but these are all things I have used myself."

Maintaining one shop for 40 years is difficult in Korea. Park said, "My principle is to be as I am. Just as I am (without forcing anything), and the shop as it is."

Interior view of Eulji Dabang. Photo by Jinseon Kim

"We often have alumni gatherings, and people who emigrated overseas come back. They express joy that the owner hasn’t changed and the shop remains the same. During redevelopment, thinking about those customers was the most painful. They deliberately came from far away, so how upsetting it must be if the place of memories is gone. The grandmother who emigrated to Canada 30 years ago and visits once a year is the most memorable. There are many others, like those who come with their mothers or those who visited as children and now are going to the military."

The charm of Eulji Dabang lies in its drinks like Ssanghwa-cha, iced coffee, and omija tea, and if you come before 11 a.m., you can also enjoy ramen. Park started selling ramen because she worried that people working nearby might be hungry. She also makes kimchi herself. The omija powder used in omija tea and the plum extract used in plum tea are homemade. There is no corner of the shop untouched by her care. This is the unique expertise and strength that Eulji Dabang holds in Euljiro, where franchise cafes line the streets.

"There are many customers who come from far away and many who have been coming for a long time, so I feel sorry to serve something bought from outside. I want customers to recall memories and feel comfortable as if they are entering their own home when they come to Eulji Dabang. That’s all that matters."