[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Into the More Beautiful Old House You Must Look Closely

The Breath of Dasan Jeong Yak-yong's Yeoyudang
The House of Joseon Scholar Yun Jeung, Myeongjae Gotaek
The Ildu Gotaek of Neo-Confucian Master Jeong Yeong-chang
Unjoru, Living Like a Bird in the Clouds

The autumn scenery of Myeongjae Gotaek, where the serene jangdokdae and the traditional house harmonize well

The autumn breeze carries fallen leaves over the walls of the old house. Following behind, sunlight peeks through the gaps of the traditional gate, gently revealing itself. It is the tail end of autumn. How about taking a journey into the stories held within the old house? You can enjoy contemplation while strolling along the house or spend a night in the home of a great Joseon scholar. The generous and cozy scenery, imprinted with traces of the past, warms the heart. Recently, the Korea Tourism Organization also introduced ‘Old Houses with Stories’ as recommended places to visit in November. The travel destinations include ‘Namyangju Yeoyudang (Gyeonggi Namyangju), where the breath of Jeong Yak-yong lingers,’ ‘Nonsan Myeongjae Old House (Chungnam Nonsan), more beautiful when seen closely,’ ‘Hamyang Ildu Old House (Gyeongnam Hamyang), where you can feel the history of the Jeong Yeo-chang family,’ and ‘Gurye Unjoru (Jeonnam Gurye), a spacious and peaceful home.’

#Namyangju Yeoyudang, Where the Breath of Jeong Yak-yong Lingers

Dasan Jeong Yak-yong was born and raised in Joan-myeon, Namyangju City, Gyeonggi Province. Here stands Yeoyudang, where his spirit remains. In 1800, after King Jeongjo passed away, Jeong Yak-yong returned to his hometown and hung the Yeoyudang (與猶堂) signboard on the sarangchae (men’s quarters). ‘Yeoyu’ means ‘to live cautiously and vigilantly.’ Although Dasan vowed to live carefully, he was exiled to Gangjin for 18 years starting the following year.

Yeoyudang Viewed from the Outside

Dasan Ecological Park is a great place for a year-round walk.

After returning to his hometown, Jeong Yak-yong organized works such as Mokminsimseo and Heumheum Sinseo at Yeoyudang until the end of his life. The house where he lived was swept away by a great flood in 1925 and was rebuilt in 1986. It consists of the sarangchae and anchae (main quarters) and is simple, reflecting Dasan’s character. On the hill behind Yeoyudang is Jeong Yak-yong’s tomb (Gyeonggi Monument), and below the hill is the epitaph he wrote himself (自撰墓誌銘).

When visiting the Jeong Yak-yong Historic Site, where Yeoyudang and Jeong Yak-yong’s tomb are located, use the audio guide narrated by actor Jung Hae-in. The site is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (closed on Mondays, January 1, and major holidays), and admission is free.

Opposite the Jeong Yak-yong Historic Site is the Silhak Museum, themed around practical learning. Dasan Ecological Park offers a refreshing view of Paldang Lake and allows walks with pets. Nearby is Neungnae Station, full of retro charm, so don’t miss it.

#Nonsan Myeongjae Old House, More Beautiful When Seen Closely

The view of the numaru when opening the door of Myeongjae Gotaek

The jangdokdae and the traditional house create a picturesque landscape.

Nonsan Myeongjae Old House (National Folk Cultural Property) was the home of Myeongjae Yun Jeung, a great Joseon scholar who declined official posts throughout his life to devote himself to academic research and educating future generations. The old house consists of the anchae (main quarters), gwangchae (storage quarters), sarangchae (men’s quarters), and a shrine. It is considered a well-preserved Joseon yangban (aristocrat) residence that stands out for its practicality and scientific principles.

The sarangchae uses an angojigi, a sliding door combining sliding and hinged functions, and the layout of the anchae and gwangchae considers sunlight and wind flow, showcasing the wisdom of ancestors. Behind the door to the anchae, inner and outer walls are installed with a gap below, allowing the mistress to see visitors’ shoes from the anchae’s daecheong (main hall) and prepare accordingly. An artificial pond, jangdokdae (jar stand), and old trees add charm.

Descendants still live here, so entry is restricted to designated areas. The old house is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (until 5 p.m. in summer, closed during holiday periods), and admission is free.

Nonsan Donam Seowon (Historic Site) was built to honor Sagye Kim Jang-saeng, a mid-Joseon politician and Confucian scholar. It became a royal-acknowledged seowon (Confucian academy) during King Hyeonjong’s reign and is one of nine seowons listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites under ‘Korean Seowon.’

Nearby, at Yeonsan Station, visit the Train Culture Experience Center and Yeonsan Station Water Tower (Registered Cultural Property). Also, stop by Yeonsan Cultural Warehouse, a former grain storage transformed into a complex cultural and artistic space.

#Hamyang Ildu Old House, Where You Can Feel the History of the Jeong Yeo-chang Family

The gatehouse with a traditional pointed roof at the entrance of Hamyang Ildu Gotaek

A piece of paper with "Chunghyojeol" written on it, attached above the Sarangchae door.

Hamyang Ildu Old House (National Folk Cultural Property) was the home of Ildu Jeong Yeo-chang. Jeong Yeo-chang, a master of Neo-Confucianism, is regarded as one of the Five Sages of the East. The current old house was built about a century after his death. The entrance gate displays five royal commendations (jeongnyeo) awarded to the Jeong family by the state.

The sarangchae bears a signboard reading ‘Munheon Sega’ (Literary Family), indicating that descendants of Jeong Yeo-chang live there, and above the back door is a large paper inscribed with ‘Loyalty, Filial Piety, Integrity, and Righteousness’ (忠孝節義). From the wooden veranda (numaru), you can see the rock garden (seokgasang) in the courtyard.

On the ceiling corner hangs the signboard ‘Takcheongjae’ (濯淸齋), meaning ‘a house that washes away impure thoughts.’ Passing through the single gate beside the sarangchae leads to the anchae, the women’s quarters, followed by the granary and the shrine housing Jeong Yeo-chang’s portrait.

Nearby is Hamyang Namgye Seowon (Historic Site), built by local scholars to honor Jeong Yeo-chang after his death. Next to Namgye Seowon is Hamyang Cheonggye Seowon (Gyeongnam Cultural Property), commemorating civil official Kim Il-son. Visiting Hamyang Museum offers a comprehensive look at Hamyang County’s history and artifacts.

#Gurye Unjoru, A Spacious and Peaceful Home

Unjoru Old House That Practiced the Virtue of Sharing

Cheoneunsa Sangsaeng-gil, Fully Embracing Nature

Unjoru (雲鳥樓, National Folk Cultural Property), meaning ‘a house hidden like a bird in the clouds,’ is a generous and cozy old house. Built in 1776 (the 52nd year of King Yeongjo’s reign) by Ryu I-ju when he served as the governor of Nagan County, the house has been well preserved for nearly 250 years. The spirit infused in the old house has been passed down continuously. The Ryu family, who practiced noblesse oblige, filled a rice storage jar inscribed with ‘Others Can Understand’ (他人能解) so that poor and struggling neighbors could take rice as needed. The house, consisting of sarangchae, anchae, haengnangchae (servants’ quarters), shrine, and pond, is quite large but simple without lavish decorations. The wooden veranda (numaru) of the sarangchae, offering a soft view of the surrounding mountains, is the highlight of Unjoru, where scholars enjoyed cultural pursuits. The signboard ‘Subunsil’ (隨分室) hangs there, symbolizing a life of moderation, and the chimney is kept low out of consideration for neighbors.

Gurye is a city through which the clear and clean Seomjin River flows. At the Seomjin River Fish Ecology Center, you can see various freshwater fish and a pair of endangered otters (Natural Monument). The Gurye 5-Day Market, held on days ending in 3 and 8 each month, is enlivened by youth-run stalls selling various snacks. At Cheoneunsa Temple’s Path of Coexistence & Pine Forest Trail, included in the ‘2023?2024 Korea Tourism 100 Selections,’ take a walk of about 3 km along the forest and reservoir to feel the autumn atmosphere and deep resonance.