[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Witnessing the Thriving Sunrise at Cheonwangbong, Alive Through Three Generations of Virtue(?)

Jirisan 'Seongjung Traverse (Seongsamjae - Jungsan-ri)' 34km
Colorful, blazing autumn foliage trail of Jirisan
Hikers favor the ‘Hwadae Traverse (Hwaeomsa - Daewonsa)’
Dong Seoul to Seongsamjae bus departs daily at 11 PM

A majestic sunrise rose behind the autumn foliage coloring Jirisan Cheonwangbong Peak.

There is a mountain that makes your heart race and fills you with excitement just by thinking about it, even if you are not familiar with mountains. That mountain is Jirisan (智異山). It is as generous and cozy as a mother's embrace. It is a mountain that holds the spirit, sorrow, and han (deep sorrow) of our people. The great scholar Nammyung Jo Sik (1501?1572) of the Joseon Dynasty said, "Only by climbing Jirisan can you see the mountains, the waters, humanity, and the world." In the deepening autumn, I ventured into Jirisan. This journey is not just a hike but a traverse. For mountain lovers, the Jirisan traverse is a kind of 'dream.' It is a path accompanied by the tension of taking the first step at dawn from Seongsamjae, the stars pouring down at Byeoksoryeong through the night, and the majestic sunrise encountered at Cheonwangbong. In fact, traversing Jirisan is not merely 'climbing a mountain.' It is a path of endless self-questioning and self-answering to find oneself, for some to overcome inner fears, and for others to gain wisdom to see the world. In the past, among mountaineers, the unwritten rule for a traverse was the Hwadae traverse (from Hwaeomsa to Daewonsa). Nowadays, the Seongbaek traverse (Seongsamjae to Baekmudong) and Seongjung traverse (Seongsamjae to Jungsanri) are considered representative Jirisan traverse courses. Among these, many enjoy the 34km Seongbaek traverse, starting from Seongsamjae and finishing at Jungsanri. Although it is called a counterfeit traverse by some mountaineers. After 10 years, I set out again on the Jirisan traverse, accompanied by the deepening autumn foliage of Jirisan.

#Entering the generous and cozy embrace of Jirisan

The path from Nogodan to Imgeollyeong continues smoothly.

The entrance to the Seongsamjae trail opens from 3 a.m. It is 2.3km to Nogodan Pass. According to the trail map, this is the easiest section of the entire traverse. At 4 a.m., I finally took the first step. A strange tension flows through my body, knowing I have entered Jirisan. In the pitch-black night, the only lights visible are the headlamps of the traverse group. Following a gentle and wide path for about 40 to 50 minutes, you reach the Nogodan Shelter, which is currently under renovation.

Hurrying to see the sunrise, I head toward Nogodan. To reach the summit of Nogodan, an online reservation is essential. It is a special protection zone, open only from 5 a.m. to 4 p.m. After passing the Nogodan Visitor Center, a comfortable wooden deck path of about 700 meters leads to the summit. It takes only 20 minutes to reach the top.

Suddenly, the humid air from the Seomjin River rushes in, turning Nogodan into a 'sea of clouds.' It surpasses the famous 'Nogodan cloud sea,' one of Jirisan's ten scenic views. Nothing is visible. Visitors waiting for the Nogodan sunrise reluctantly descend.

Now, I have entered the main ridge of Jirisan for the full traverse. Villages of people who have lived for thousands of years, rooted in Jirisan, are visible below as if within reach.

It is 3.2km to Imgeollyeong without major undulations, a continuous oak forest path. Legend has it that in the past, if you shot an arrow from Nogodan toward Imgeollyeong and rode a horse, the horse would arrive faster than the arrow, illustrating how flat the path is.

Jirisan, where the primeval forest's nature remains intact

Finally, the sun appeared above the clouds. Perhaps energized by the sunrise, I arrived at Imgeollyeong without much effort. The special taste that only those who have worked hard can feel was the taste of Imgeollyeong's water. After filling my water bottle with spring water, I set off again toward Banyabong (般若峰). The next target, Norumok, is a rather steep rocky uphill.

Following the flat path, if you turn left at Norumok, you reach Banyabong; to the right is Samdobong. Many hikers leave their backpacks at Norumok, climb Banyabong, and return.

If Jirisan is like a mother with generous kindness, Banyabong represents that. The 'Banya Sunset' viewed from Banyabong, located in the central part of Jirisan, is extraordinarily magnificent.

Descending Banyabong, I ascend toward Samdobong. On the way to Samdobong, to the right is Piyagol, said to be the most beautiful autumn foliage in Jirisan. Novelist Jo Jung-rae wrote in 'Taebaek Mountain Range' that the reason Piyagol's foliage is so vividly red is for a good reason. Now, Piyagol is reaching its peak autumn colors.

At Samdobong, a triangular stone marker indicates the boundary point of the three provinces: Gyeongnam, Jeonnam, and Jeonbuk. These are human-made boundaries; nature does not distinguish between Yeonghonam or east, west, north, and south.

Visitors enjoying autumn foliage hiking on Jirisan Mountain

Passing Samdobong, the section from Hwagaejae to Tokkibong is a steep and difficult course. After a tedious climb that leaves you breathless, a wide clearing suddenly appears?that is Hwagaejae. It was once a place where salt and seafood from Gyeongnam were bartered for hemp cloth and mountain vegetables from Jeonbuk, a Korean version of the 'Tea Horse Road.'

Climbing for about 50 minutes from Hwagaejae, you reach Tokkibong, where dense oak and Korean fir trees intertwine, providing a refreshing atmosphere. Looking back from here, Nogodan and Banyabong are visible at a glance. Sitting down at the edge of the open helicopter landing zone at Tokkibong's summit, I enjoy a honey-like lunch. Although I have lightened my backpack a bit, my body feels heavy.

The autumn leaves have turned red on Banya Peak, where clouds drift by.

Hyeongjebong Rock Standing Like Brothers

The path from Tokkibong to Yeonhacheon Shelter is lined like a folding screen with conifers such as Korean fir and Siberian pine. Most Jirisan shelters are located on flat areas, but Yeonhacheon is nestled in the forest with water springing year-round.

Leaving Yeonhacheon, red maple trees spread out before my eyes. The terrain seems flat but soon becomes an uphill toward Byeoksoryeong at a three-way junction (Triangle Hill). There are many peculiar rock formations. I catch my breath on a large flat rock. In the distance, Byeoksoryeong and Cheonwangbong shimmer before me. Meeting a clear view of Cheonwangbong is a stroke of luck, as it is usually shrouded in clouds and rarely visible.

Passing the twin peaks of Hyeongjebong, which stand side by side like brothers, Byeoksoryeong is just ahead. A day is ending in the generous embrace of Jirisan.

#Overcoming pain step by step on the path

After a hearty breakfast, I left Byeoksoryeong. The approximately 6km from Byeoksoryeong to Seoseok Shelter is the most rugged and challenging part of the Jirisan traverse. After climbing a narrow path around the mountain for about 40 minutes, I reached Seonbisaem (Scholar's Spring). Compared to over ten years ago, the water flow is thinner. I barely catch a sip of the trickling water. Still, the taste remains the same.

Filling my water bottle, I headed toward Seoseok. The path to Seoseok is a rocky ridge trail made of peculiar rock formations, showing that even in the rocky Jirisan, such places exist.

Visitors enjoying the autumn foliage of Jirisan Mountain

Climbing up to Chilsunbong, the peak with the legend of the seven fairies, I exerted every bit of strength I had. True to its name, Chilsunbong is enveloped in clouds as you approach. Though the path is rocky, the scenery feels like a fairy walking among clouds. After Chilsunbong, the path to Yeongsinbong is an uphill course, with wooden and metal stairs adding the finishing touch.

Regret floods in, wondering, "Why did I come to this rugged mountain path?" But with every step forward, the goal draws closer, the most honest principle, so I continue.

On a peak dyed entirely red with autumn leaves, laughter rings in my ears. It is a group of students from Hanseo University traversing Jirisan with their professor. They are so lively that no sign of fatigue is apparent. I silently praise the vigor of youth.

Hanseo University students are shouting out their passion.

I asked a student how the Jirisan traverse was. The reply was, "It's a bit tough, but Jirisan with my professor and friends is more wonderful than I imagined."

I accompany the students to Seoseok. The narrow forest path that had continued for a long time ends, and suddenly a vast plain appears. Seoseok Plain is flanked by Chotdaebong (1,703m) and Yeongsinbong (1,651m), spreading widely over an 8km circumference. Seoseok before me is brilliantly adorned with colorful autumn foliage. In every valley crossing the ridge where Korean firs stand, the foliage extends down the mountain. Seoseok is originally famous for the spectacle of tens of thousands of azalea trees blooming red all at once from late May to early June. The autumn foliage festival is equally dazzling.

Behind the Seoseok Plain cypress, the autumn leaves have settled.

Seoseok Plain dyed in red and yellow autumn leaves

I climbed Chotdaebong. Far away, Cheonwangbong (天王峰, 1,915m) comes into view. Cheonwangbong looks most majestic from Chotdaebong. It commands the world, flanked by Yeonhabong and Jeseokbong (帝釋峰) on the left and Seoribong on the right. Turning to look at Seoseok Plain, the peaks I have walked?Nogodan, Samdobong, Banyabong?form a long tail of splendid autumn colors.

Before dusk, I arrived at Jangteomok. Jangteomok was once a marketplace where farmers from Sacheon, Sancheong, and Macheon in Hamyang exchanged agricultural products, but it was closed during the guerrilla uprisings and is now a shelter.

#Witnessing the vibrant sunrise at Cheonwangbong, blessed over three generations

At 3:30 a.m., I finally took the last steps toward Cheonwangbong. On the mountain path where you cannot see an inch ahead, a line of lanterns ascends.

Starting from the wooden deck stairs, most of the way to the summit is uphill. Darkness still envelops all around. Watching the altitude on the signposts, I guess I am nearing the summit. In 20 minutes, I reach Jeseokbong (1,808m), and after 30 more minutes, I arrive at Tongcheonmun (1,814m), a rock cave said to be a gateway to the sky that the impure cannot pass. Only after cleansing impurities can one ascend Cheonwangbong.

Visitors watching the Milky Way descending over Cheonwangbong from Jangteomok Shelter. (Cheonwangbong marker stone and layer composite)

Climbing a somewhat steep path, I see the word 'Cheonwangbong' illuminated by a line of lantern light. Ah, I stand on Jirisan's Cheonwangbong. The inscription on the summit stone reads, "The spirit of Koreans originates here," clearly visible. Standing on the summit itself sends chills through my body. Cheonwangbong is the highest peak of Jirisan, commanding over 20 sub-peaks exceeding 1,000 meters, including Nogodan.

As the faint moonlight and starlight fade, dawn breaks between Jungbong and Seoribong. The layered mountain ridges stretch northward toward Deogyusan and writhe powerfully toward Nogodan in the west.

The sea of clouds flowing between the floating peaks is dyed pale pink. Suddenly, the pink clouds turn orange. Then, the red sun rises vibrantly and alive. This is the Cheonwangbong sunrise, said to be visible only after accumulating virtue over three generations.

"Wow~ Seeing such a sunrise is truly amazing," visitors capturing the sunrise on their phones exclaim in awe.

A visitor from overseas, who came to see Jirisan, said, "On my first visit to Jirisan, to witness such a sunrise, I have no more wishes," expressing deep emotion.

Visitors watching the sunrise at Cheonwangbong Peak, Jirisan

Those who have experienced the Cheonwangbong sunrise, the best among Jirisan's ten scenic views, either descend or move on to other peaks. Cheonwangbong remains alone in deep meditation.

Now, it is time to descend. The Jungsanri trail is the shortest route to ascend Cheonwangbong among Jirisan trails. Accordingly, it features endless steep rocky paths and severe downhill slopes.

The dawn is coloring the overlapping ridges.

Walking down the steep stairway, I soon reach Beopgyesa Temple, located at 1,400m, the highest among Korean temples. This temple is famous for its three-story stone pagoda, designated as a treasure.

Beopgyesa and the nearby Rotary Shelter are places to rest and refresh before continuing. Descending through dense forests of oak and birch, I reach Kalbawi (Knife Rock). The sound of water from Jungsanri Valley in the distance is welcoming. This marks the end of the 34km 'Seongjung traverse,' starting from Seongsamjae and descending to Jungsanri.

Rather than pride in completing the traverse, a sense of relief for safety overwhelms me. The arduous path I passed flows like a panorama in my mind. As soon as I leave Jirisan, I feel the urge to return again. Why is that? Like a child longing for a mother's embrace...

Jirisan Summit Cheonwangbong Marker Stone

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there=Some mountaineers complete the Jirisan traverse in a single day, but most plan for 1 or 2 nights. Buses from East Seoul depart daily at 11 p.m., arriving at Seongsamjae at 3 a.m. After descending, buses to Seoul are frequently available from Wonji or Jinju. Using a private car is inconvenient. Long-distance driving aside, leaving a car at Seongsamjae and returning after the traverse is cumbersome.

△What to bring=For autumn and winter hikes, a down jacket is essential for warmth, and a lantern is a must. Especially, prepare two trekking poles. Using poles can reduce energy consumption by up to 30%. Hiking boots that cover the ankles are recommended. The downhill path from Cheonwangbong to Jungsanri puts much strain on the knees, so descend leisurely and prepare knee braces. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, shelters no longer rent blankets, so bringing a sleeping bag is advisable. The shelters are well heated. Cooking equipment like burners and pots are also necessary. Considering the heavy load, bring easy-to-prepare meals and snacks. Water and instant rice can be purchased at shelter stores if needed.

Visitors descending after watching the sunrise at Cheonwangbong Peak

The view from Cheonwangbong Peak of Jirisan Mountain

An elderly monk sitting on a large flat rock below Beopgyesa Temple, the highest temple in our country

The autumn leaves that colored the mountain summit have descended, making this week the peak of Jirisan autumn foliage.