[Joyongjun's Travel Stories] What Were the Summer Vacation Spots for Joseon Dynasty Hanyang Yangban?

Suseongdong Valley, Praised by Joseon Scholars
Inwangsan, Gyeongbokgung, Seochon and Many Nearby Attractions
Stone Bridge Made of Tongdol, Key Contributor to Valley Restoration

If you cannot travel far for your summer vacation, how about sitting on the rocks at Suseongdong Valley and dipping your feet in the water?

Where did the scholars of Joseon escape the summer heat? The answer lies within the Hanyang Fortress. Okryudongcheon, which originates from Inwangsan Mountain, passes through Sejong Village (Seochon) and flows into Cheonggyecheon, was right there. Unfortunately, it is difficult to see its original form today. This is because the stream was covered with asphalt and placed underground during the modern development of Seoul city. Fortunately, the upper stream valley still retains its original appearance.

The Suseongdong Valley in Inwangsan (a Seoul monument) was frequently visited by royalty and yangban aristocrats. Until the Joseon Dynasty, it was a scenic spot with Inwangsan Mountain behind and mansions and Gyeongbokgung Palace in front. The representative Joseon painter Jeong Seon even depicted 'Suseongdong' in his "Jangdong Palgyeongcheop" (Album of Eight Views of Jangdong). Not only that, 19th-century scholar Yoo Bon-ye praised the valley's scenery in "Hangyeong Jirak," which introduced Hanyang's government offices, palaces, and scenic spots, and the anonymous geography book "Dongguk Yeoji Bigo" also highly praised Suseongdong Valley as a place of outstanding beauty.

The discovery of the round stone bridge played a decisive role in restoring Suseongdong Valley.

Gentle walking paths are well established along both sides of the valley.

Scholars visited Suseongdong Valley to rest, chat with acquaintances, or read books. They especially loved the sound of the flowing water. Kim Jeong-hui, also known as Chusa, wrote poetry inspired by the sound of water in Suseongdong Valley on rainy days. The name Suseongdong (水聲洞) literally means 'valley famous for the sound of water.' Nowadays, the valley is usually dry, but after heavy rains, the reputation of Suseongdong Valley can still be confirmed.

Decades ago, Suseongdong Valley almost disappeared forever. In 1971, nine buildings of the Ok-in Pilot Apartment Complex were constructed on both sides of the valley. Although the development was necessary at the time, the valley’s scenery was obscured by the apartments. Fortunately, in 2012, after more than 40 years, the old Ok-in Pilot Apartments were demolished, and a restoration project for Suseongdong Valley was carried out, returning it to its current landscape.

It is interesting that one of the references used for restoring Suseongdong Valley was Jeong Seon's painting of 'Suseongdong.' The stone bridge (Girin Bridge) depicted in the painting was discovered during the apartment demolition process. This led to the cancellation of the previous plan to turn the area into a park and the initiation of the valley restoration project. The existence of Girin Bridge also played a significant role when Suseongdong Valley was designated as a cultural heritage site.

A painting by Gyeomjae Jeong Seon referenced during the restoration of Suseongdong Valley

If you walk along Pilwundaero and Ok-in-gil, you will encounter Suseongdong Valley. If you are walking the Inwang section of the Hanyang Fortress, you can descend to Inwangsan Park and reach the upper part of the valley. The restored Suseongdong Valley is about 190 meters long, not very long, but it is astonishing to see such beautiful scenery right in the heart of Seoul.

Suseongdong Valley is managed as a local cultural asset. In addition to the aforementioned Girin Bridge, the site of Bihaedang, believed to be the house where Prince Anpyeong lived, is located within the valley. Girin Bridge was made by joining two 3.8-meter-long granite slabs. It is the only bridge within the Hanyang Fortress preserved in its original form and is the longest bridge made of a single stone. Without the discovery of Girin Bridge, the restoration project of Suseongdong Valley would have been unlikely, underscoring its immense importance.

Unfortunately, it is not a place suitable for water play, as the water volume is barely enough to wet your feet. But that is fine. You can spread out on the wide rocks and rest deeply. Like the ancestors who recited poetry and sang songs on the rocks of Suseongdong Valley, enjoy the pleasures of nature as your companion.

Several urban hanok houses remain in the alleys of Sejong Village (Seochon).

The scenery around Suseongdong Valley alone is enough to elicit admiration. Walk along the walking paths on both sides of the valley. Various species of plants form a small forest. If possible, explore the Inwangsan Footpath as well. A 2.5 km barrier-free trail has been created connecting Cheongun Park, Suseongdong Valley, and Sajik Neighborhood Park. It is also recommended to enjoy the view of Seoul from the observatory located midway along the Inwangsan Footpath.

There are many attractions near Suseongdong Valley. A representative place is Sejong Village, located between Inwangsan Mountain and Gyeongbokgung Palace. Like Bukchon, it was a residential area for royalty, yangban aristocrats, and middle-class people during the Joseon Dynasty. From around the 1920s, large-scale 'ㅁ-shaped' urban hanok houses were built on the sites where the mansions of the fallen yangban were demolished, and this appearance remains today.

Although it is not very high, when standing on the stage, the scenery of Seoul city comes into full view.

Urban hanoks still serve as residents' living spaces. Recently, accommodations, restaurants, cafes, and boutique shops renovated from urban hanoks have been opening throughout Sejong Village. Wander through the intricate alleys and explore here and there. You will discover treasure-like spaces.

Cheongwadae, opened to the public in May 2022, has established itself as a new attraction in the Jongno-gu area. By making a reservation on the Cheongwadae website and visiting, you can tour most facilities including the Chunghugwan, the main Cheongwadae building, the presidential residence, the guesthouse, and Sangchunjae. You can relax leisurely in the well-landscaped Grand Garden or enjoy performances held at Nokjiwon.

If you are looking for a quiet palace, Gyeonghuigung (a historic site) is recommended. It is characterized by fewer visitors than other palaces, allowing you to enjoy the Joseon royal palace in tranquility.

◇ Travel Information

○ Related Websites

- Jongno Enda Itda (Jongno-gu Office History and Culture Tourism Homepage) https://tour.jongno.go.kr/tour/main.do

- Cheongwadae www.opencheongwadae.kr

- Seoul Museum of History (Gyeonghuigung) https://museum.seoul.go.kr

○ Contact Numbers

- Jongno-gu Office Urban Greenery Division (Suseongdong Valley) 02)2148-2836

- Cheongwadae Opening Event Information Center 1522-7760

- Seoul Museum of History (Gyeonghuigung) 02)724-0274

○ Public Transportation Information

[Bus] Take Line 3 to Gyeongbokgung Station, Exit 3, then board Jongno Bus No. 09 at Gyeongbokgung Station bus stop, get off at Suseongdong Valley stop, and walk about 140 meters.

* Inquiries: Seoul Transportation Information System https://topis.seoul.go.kr

○ Restaurant Information

- Jalbbajin Memil Seochon Main Branch: Pure Buckwheat Makguksu, Jahamun-ro 11-gil, Jongno-gu

- Patik: Seafood Brochette, Spinach Pasta, Ok-in 3-gil, Jongno-gu

- Goat Deli Seochon: Jambon Beurre, Goat Pizza, Pilwundaero 5-ga-gil, Jongno-gu

○ Nearby Attractions

Seoul Museum of History, Gwanghwamun Square, Inwangsan, Gyeongbokgung, Cheongwadae, Sejong Village, etc.

Provided by Korea Tourism Organization