[Unstagram] Eulji Dabang, BTS, and Photos

There are two Eulji Cafes in Euljiro, Seoul. When you exit from Exit 10 of Euljiro 3-ga Station, there is an Eulji Cafe on the second floor of the adjacent building. If you walk about 30 meters toward City Hall from there, you will find another Eulji Cafe on the second floor. There is no special relationship or interaction between the two cafes. Besides their names and menus, one more thing they have in common is that several photos of singers are displayed. The Eulji Cafe near the subway exit has several large photos of trot singer Lee Chan-won. The owner is a big fan of Lee Chan-won. The other Eulji Cafe has photos of the idol group BTS posted all around, with large and small frames placed here and there.

Eulji Dabang is immediately visible when you exit Euljiro 3-ga Station through Exit 10. A photo of singer Lee Chan-won is displayed so that it can be seen even from outside the window. Photo by Heo Young-han

This Eulji Cafe actually operated for nearly 40 years on the second floor of the old Eulji Myeonok building. When the Eulji Myeonok building site was redeveloped and demolished, it moved to its current location in July last year. While looking for a place for the shop, it ended up here. The owner was concerned about having another Eulji Cafe next door but decided to keep the long-standing shop name without changing it.

Interior of Eulji Dabang decorated with BTS photos, calendars, and cushions. The 40-year-old 'Gold star' air conditioner from the Euljimyeonok building was also brought over as is. ⓒHeo Yeonghan

This Eulji Cafe (for convenience, hereafter called ‘BTS Eulji Cafe’) had BTS members visit for a broadcast program filming when it was located above Eulji Myeonok. Since then, the owner hoped it would become a ‘BTS pilgrimage site’ and made photo frames of the members during the filming, placing BTS 'goods' such as cushions and calendars around. When moving, the tables, sofas, and photos were brought and set up here as they were. Aside from the photos, a noticeable item is the decades-old ‘Goldstar (Geumseong)’ air conditioner. It still works ‘loud and strong.’ Thanks to the photos, quite a few young customers come to drink tea and take pictures.

Inside Eulji Dabang, where numerous photos of singer Lee Chan-won are displayed. The photo sizes are overwhelmingly larger compared to the BTS section. Photo by Heo Young-han

The other Eulji Cafe (hereafter called ‘Lee Chan-won Eulji Cafe’) has been in business in Euljiro for 70 years. The owner became a fan of singer Lee Chan-won because he is ‘handsome’ and even obtained and posted his photos. Word spread among fans, who come to put up photos themselves and hold active gatherings. The menus of the two cafes differ slightly, but the representative menu of old-style cafes is Ssanghwa-cha (herbal tea). We compared the Ssanghwa-cha of the two cafes. The ‘BTS Eulji Cafe’ Ssanghwa-cha is served in a refined white porcelain cup with embossed patterns. When you visit for the first time, the staff teaches you how to drink Ssanghwa-cha. First, they tell you to press the egg yolk with a teaspoon to lightly cook it, coating the surface of the hot tea. Then, if you eat the yolk first, a savory flavor fills your mouth. Taking a sip of the hot tea, the harmonious taste of fragrant herbal medicine and nuts brings peace to your mind. The Ssanghwa-cha has a deep aroma and flavor.

Ssanghwa tea (left) from 'Lee Chan-won Eulji Dabang' and Ssanghwa tea from 'BTS Eulji Dabang' ⓒ Heo Young-han

The ‘Lee Chan-won Eulji Cafe’ Ssanghwa-cha is served in a deep cup with yellowish-brown stripes and has a large volume. When you order Ssanghwa-cha, the owner asks if you want the yolk added. It contains plenty of nuts such as sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts, enough to be a meal for those who eat small portions. It is sweeter than the ‘neighbor’s’ and is less hot for lightly cooking and coating the egg yolk. The many nuts may have lowered the temperature. The teaspoon is narrow, making it inconvenient to scoop the egg. When pressing the undercooked egg into the mouth with the teaspoon while the cup is at the lips, there was a slightly raw egg fishy taste. The tea flavor does not feel as deep. Each visitor to the cafe probably has slightly different reasons for coming. Whether it is because of the Ssanghwa-cha or the atmosphere including the photos, it is hard to distinguish precisely. Of course, the most sold menu item is not Ssanghwa-cha but coffee. That ‘cafe coffee.’

The entrance of Eulji Dabang, located about 30 meters from Exit 10 of Euljiro 3-ga Station. It has been decorated with photos and flowers, hoping to become a BTS pilgrimage site. Photo by Heo Young-han

Searching ‘#EuljiCafe’ on Instagram mostly shows photos of ‘BTS Eulji Cafe.’ Since posts are steadily uploaded, it seems quite well-known and benefits from the photos. Lee Chan-won photos rarely appear linked with Eulji Cafe in searches. Thinking about why, it seems that Lee Chan-won fans do not use Instagram much. The owner was not asked directly. Both owners were asked if the singers’ photos helped their business. They said “yes.” It was not a very strong reaction. When asked at the ‘BTS Eulji Cafe’ if many fans came for their 10th debut anniversary, the answer was, “Well, where did they all go?” It seems it has not yet reached the status of a pilgrimage site.

The very cash register used in old-fashioned coffee shops. It is still being used at 'BTS Eulji Dabang'. Photo by Heo Younghan

Fans come directly to the Lee Chan-won side, while on the BTS side, even non-fans seem to come out of curiosity after seeing Instagram posts. Running a ‘truly old-fashioned cafe’ in the city center these days must not be easy. Actually, what business is easy? I respect the artisans who have kept their place through long periods of hardship. Since the photos are already displayed, I hope they help a lot with business.