[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] National Road 35, Awarded One Michelin Star

Line 35 Bonghwa Beopjeon-Myeongho Section
Gently Riding the Train to Enjoy Spring
The Legend of the Tiger, Beombawi Observatory
Toegye Yi Hwang Study Path, Yedeon-gil

It is the season to run anywhere. Spring moves the heart, and the road moves the wheels. The gentle spring breeze stirs the travel spirit and urges the heart. Let's follow the road where you can fully enjoy spring with the car windows wide open. It is National Route 35, stretching from Dosan Seowon in Andong to the entrance of Taebaek. This section is a travel destination selected by the Michelin Green Guide. The Guide Michelin, founded in France, is a globally renowned travel guidebook. It is divided into the Red Guide, which introduces restaurant information, and the Green Guide, which introduces travel information. The Green Guide early on awarded this road one star. The significance of this choice lies in the fact that the familiar scenery of this road to us appeared as an unfamiliar and attractive travel destination to someone else. The unadorned beauty is ours, so we run along the road we might have easily passed by.

The path leading to Cheongnyangsan is filled with the spirit of spring. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel specialist.

Spring spreads along the foothills on both sides of this road. Among them, the valley of Bonghwa is once again deep and serene, as if it were a hidden passage of spring kept by the messenger of the season. Passing through the paths opened by Nakdong River, Hwangwoo Mountain, Malli Mountain, and Cheongnyang Mountain, one can truly feel the greenness of spring. When you turn onto a side road and meet people and villages, the nostalgic scent of the hometown you forgot tickles your nose like a haze. At that moment, the travel spirit, forgotten during the winter, sprouts like new buds. Therefore, it is right to travel this road a little slower, stopping often to face every corner.

Yedonggil Seonyugyobon National Road No. 35 and Nakdong River. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

If you intend to leisurely enjoy and head south, you should enter National Route 35 around Samijeong Valley. The quiet road has Ungokcheon Stream flowing to the right toward the Nakdong River, and on the left, the friendly mountain village scenery brushes past. Then, it briefly moves away from Ungokcheon and climbs a modest mountain path for a while.

Beombawi Observatory appears near the end of Samdong-ri. The low rocky mountain on the roadside cliff is said to be where Joseon Dynasty scholar Kang Youngdal caught a tiger with his bare hands while bowing at the tomb of his ancestor. Two tiger models near the deck by the rocky mountain mark the location of the observatory. The observation deck offers a magnificent view of the Nakdong River flowing around the edge of Hwangwoo Mountain far below. It is said to resemble the Korean Peninsula, but even without that analogy, it is enough to feel the majesty of nature. The waterway flows leisurely from Maehoyu Recreational Area to the Nakdong River Origin Theme Park, where Ungokcheon joins.

Beombawi Observatory. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

The view of the Nakdong River meander seen from Beombawi Observatory. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Passing the mysterious road from Beombawi Observatory, you reach the Nakdong River Origin Theme Park. The mysterious road has an optical illusion where an uphill looks like a downhill. The road continues alongside Ungokcheon Stream to Docheon-ri, and crossing Docheon Bridge near Myeongho-myeon Office, you arrive at the Nakdong River Origin Theme Park. The tributary of the Nakdong River, originating from Hwangji in Taebaek, meets Ungokcheon Stream here to form the main stream. The park is located at the confluence. From the north side of the park, crossing the river to the south side at Myeongho Inari Suspension Bridge is suitable for a short walk after getting out of the car. Inari means a ferry where the Nakdong River and Ungokcheon Stream meet under Hwangwoo Mountain. The view of the two waterways meeting from Myeongho Inari Suspension Bridge is vivid.

From Nakdong River Origin Theme Park to the boundary of Andong City, the road runs alongside the Nakdong River. The mountains of Bonghwa line up, and Gwanchang 1 Bridge and Gwanchang 2 Bridge cross the Nakdong River back and forth, adding to the freshness of a spring day drive. You might also visit Yedeon-gil Seonyugyo Bridge, Malli Mountain Observatory, and Cheongnyangsa Temple on Cheongnyang Mountain to calm your restless heart.

National Route 35 running along the Nakdong River. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Yedeon-gil is named after the old word "Yeda," meaning to go and come. Toegye Yi Hwang, in his teenage years, traveled between his home and Cheongnyang Mountain to learn from his uncle, a habit he continued into old age. Yedeon-gil is a pleasant walking path following his footsteps. Bonghwa’s Yedeon-gil stretches from Nakdong River Origin Theme Park to Cheongnyang Bridge. The Yedeon-gil Seonyugyo Bridge at the midpoint means "a bridge where immortals play" over Baek Yongdam Pond. Downstream, the green water and strange rocks harmonize, captivating the gaze.

Malli Mountain Observatory is located on a side road toward Malli Mountain across Oma Bridge. It is designated by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and the Korea Tourism Organization as a green spot perfect for photography, ideal for viewing National Route 35. On the opposite side of Malli Mountain is Cheongnyang Mountain, a pride of Bonghwa. It is beautiful but rugged, requiring firm determination to reach the summit. Visiting Cheongnyangsa Temple is worthwhile. The Bonghwa section of National Route 35 ends around here, but extending the drive to Dosan-myeon in Andong City is also fine.

Cheongnyangsan, a mountain shaped like the character '山' next to the Nakdong River. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

If you just want to gaze at Cheongnyang Mountain, "Orange Blossom Scent Blown by the Wind" located past Malli Mountain Observatory is a masterstroke. It is an unmanned caf? operated by a pension, a 'scenic restaurant' of Cheongnyang Mountain. Cheongnyang Mountain is said to resemble the character for mountain (山), and from the caf? window, the three peaks including the main peak Janginbong are clear. It is a perfect spot for a memorable photo. Just staring blankly at it fills you with a refreshing energy, just like the mountain’s name. The caf? operates unmanned with a vending machine for drinks, but if you are lucky to meet the owner, Kim Doohan, you can enjoy richer treats and hear stories related to Cheongnyang Mountain. However, the road to the caf? is not easy. It climbs a mountain path off National Route 35, and since it is a single lane, caution is needed when passing other vehicles.

The Baekdudaegan National Arboretum is perfect for feeling the vitality of spring. Covering 5,179 hectares, it boasts the largest scale in Asia. The course circulating from the Visitor Center to the Medicinal Plant Garden alone takes about an hour. The most popular spot is the Tiger Forest, created on the size of six soccer fields. You can see the symbol of Baekdudaegan, the Baekdu Mountain tiger Hancheong, and Uri. The course including Tiger Forest takes at least two hours, and if you want to explore every corner of the arboretum, allocate three hours. You can use the tram (paid) or participate in the Garden Stay program, which includes accommodation and guided tours. Note that some forest trails are currently closed for maintenance.

Yedonggil Seonyugyo Bridge and Nakdong River. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

Bonghwa is a hidden gem of Korea’s pavilion culture, with 103 pavilions and gazebos. Experience the charm of Korean pavilions at Bonghwa Pavilion Culture Life Center. The indoor exhibition hall, Pavilion Exhibition Hall, starts from the video room (Yosan Yosu), then proceeds to Exhibition Room 1 (World of Pavilions), Exhibition Room 2 (Enjoying the Breeze and Moon), and Exhibition Room 3 (Bonghwa Tour). In Exhibition Room 2, you can indirectly experience the four seasons of pavilions. The outdoor exhibition area, Pavilion Five Scenes, reproduces Gwangpunggak of Soswaewon in Damyang, Hanbyeokru of Cheongpung-myeon in Jecheon, and Buyongjeong in the rear garden of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul. You can stay overnight at Solhyangchon lodging facility.

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=From the Seoul metropolitan area, take Yeongdong Expressway and Jungang Expressway, exit at Buk-Yeongju (Punggi) IC, go to Beopjeon-myeon Chunyang Station, and then take National Route 35.

△Food=The representative dish is grilled pork over charcoal. Using pine charcoal instead of oak charcoal, the pork is grilled moderately, topped with pine needles, and grilled several more times to infuse the pine scent. Pork charcoal grill restaurants operate around Bongseong-myeon. The original Yaksu Restaurant is famous for chicken baeksuk (boiled chicken) and chicken bulgogi. They captivate the palate with vinegar fermented from wild mountain grapes and gochujang (red chili paste).

The serene scenery of Daksil Village. Photo by Jo Yongjun, travel journalist

△Attractions=Chunyang Oak Forest, Daksil Village, Cheongoksan Natural Recreation Forest, filming site of The Way Home, Buncheon Station, and Seungbu Station are among the attractions.