[Harumanbo Harucheonja] "Waking up at 2 AM to walk 25 km a day as practice"... Insights Gained from Life's Journey

Jeong Chung-rae, Dongguk University Trustee, on a Walking Pilgrimage at Indian Buddhist Sacred Sites
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"Although my accumulated energy has run out, the endurance built up from walking so far means there is no problem. Those who struggled initially with diarrhea, colds, or blisters on their feet have now overcome these difficulties and are continuing together without falling behind."

Jung Chung-rae, a director of Dongguk University Foundation (age 65, pictured), has been walking through the northeastern region of India for 38 consecutive days since the 11th of last month. Passing through Buddhist sacred sites such as Bodh Gaya in India where Buddha attained enlightenment, Lumbini in Nepal where he was born, and Kushinagar where he entered nirvana, the journey is now nearing its final destination, Shravasti, where Buddha is said to have preached the Diamond Sutra. Compared to when he started, he has lost weight and his face looks gaunt as he has not been able to shave, but his voice remains strong. This pilgrimage, organized by the Sangwol Gyeolsa Corporation, an affiliated organization of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, involves about 200 people including monks, devotees, volunteers, and local monks walking an astonishing 1,167 km over 38 days, averaging about 25 to 30 km per day. Including domestic immigration schedules, the total pilgrimage period is 43 days. Although many pilgrims from various Korean Buddhist sects and temples visit India every year, this is practically the first time such a large group has completed most of a 1,000 km-plus itinerary on foot.

On the 17th, Jeong Chung-rae, a director of the Dongguk University Foundation, was walking in the Parsa area of Uttar Pradesh, India. He has lost a lot of weight compared to when he started on the 10th of last month. The pilgrimage group has walked a cumulative distance of over 910 km as of the 37th day of the entire schedule.

43 Days of Braving the Elements Following the Path Walked by Buddha

"In Buddhism, walking meditation is called 'pohang (布行),' and it is a daily practice method just like 'zazen' (seated meditation). Buddha was born on the road, set out on the path of practice to attain enlightenment, trained disciples, traveled all over to teach the Dharma, and finally entered nirvana on the road. The path is Buddha’s entire life, and on that path lies the truth of the Dharma. Therefore, in Buddhism, the path, life, and walking are seen as the journey of life itself."

Director Jung conveyed that the harsh local conditions in India and the long pilgrimage schedule made every moment challenging. They walked on dusty unpaved roads where large trucks passed by, passed through noisy and congested city centers, and even through market alleys in poor villages with foul odors. In areas with unstable security or near borders, they received close protection from police and military units. Laundry and showers were only possible when staying at hotels; most nights were spent camping outdoors in tents.

The day starts at 2 a.m. Monks wear their kasaya robes, lay participants put on pilgrim attire, pack up sleeping bags and tents, and prepare their gear again. Despite lingering fatigue from the previous day and stiff bodies from sleeping in cramped tents, they stretch and do light exercises, perform a simple morning prayer, and start walking before 3 a.m. They take short breaks every 5 km and only after walking about 15 km do they have a modest breakfast by the roadside. Usually, this consists of two boiled eggs, yogurt, a small piece of cheese, and one piece of fruit?nothing is left over, nor should be. During walking, talking or using mobile phones is strictly prohibited.

Walking continuously for 7 to 8 hours from early dawn, they arrive at the day’s destination around 11 a.m. Sometimes, curious villagers come out in front of their homes to watch the large procession of foreigners and applaud, and village representatives prepare flower garlands to place around their necks. After walking 25 to 30 km a day, their walking apps record 40,000 to 50,000 steps. After lunch, they rest and prepare for the next day. Evening prayers finish by 6 p.m. After sunset, without any lights, nothing can be done, so everyone goes into their personal tents to prepare for sleep and falls asleep by 8 p.m.

"When you walk, you can see and feel the people living on that path and the entire universe as if it owns the road. It’s an incomparable experience compared to just passing by in a car. You can make eye contact with even a single stone or blade of grass, and communicate heart-to-heart with the people rooted there through a simple greeting..."

A pilgrimage group consisting of about 200 people, including 108 Korean monks and devotees, volunteers, and Indian monks, embarked on a 38-day walking journey starting from Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh, northern India, on the 11th of last month. They walk 25 to 30 km daily, visiting major Buddhist sacred sites such as Bodh Gaya, Lumbini in Nepal, and Kushinagar, and will arrive at their final destination, Shravasti, on the 20th. The procession of the pilgrimage group and tents set up for outdoor sleeping.
[Photo by Jeong Chung-rae]

Formed Walking Groups with Acquaintances While Preparing for the Pilgrimage

Jung, who served as principal of Dongguk University Middle School and Yeongseok High School, currently serves as a director of Dongguk University Foundation and is the standing vice president of the Jogye Order Central Lay Association. In the fall of 2019, he planned a pilgrimage to Buddhist sacred sites in India with monks from Sangwol Seonwon, but the plan was postponed for three years due to the global spread of COVID-19. During that time, he participated in several domestic pilgrimages lasting over 20 days, such as the 'National Crisis Overcoming Compassion Pilgrimage (2020),' 'Three Treasures Temple Thousand-ri Pilgrimage (2021),' and 'Peaceful Life Release Pilgrimage (2022),' naturally making walking a part of his lifestyle.

"I aimed to walk more than 50 km per week by walking at least twice a week. On days when I could spare time in the morning, I would head out right after waking up with a bottle of water. I walked 20 km a day at Olympic Park and along the Han River near my home, and if I couldn’t meet my goal on weekdays, I would go out and walk on weekends as well."

To prepare for the Indian pilgrimage and maintain healthy social connections, he formed walking groups, increasing opportunities to walk naturally. Walking alone allows focus solely on walking, but Jung advises that walking with friends requires a clear theme for the group to increase meeting frequency and participation. One group chose a different Seoul district each time to walk and learn about the area; after covering all 25 districts at least once, they expanded to surrounding cities and continue the group. Jung boasts, "We visit palaces, museums, and art galleries, and also famous nearby spots to study our culture and arts. Usually, we walk around 30,000 steps per meeting, and the response from acquaintances is very positive."

What did he realize through this month-and-ten-day pilgrimage in India? Jung said, "The reason Buddha walked the path was to teach and give enlightenment in the midst of life’s realities, but our current Buddhism does not reflect that. I once again realized the urgent need to become a Buddhism that lives with the people in the field of life."

Jung will finish the pilgrimage on the 21st local time and return to Korea on the 23rd. He plans to continue walking to fulfill his duties afterward. He said, "As a Buddhist, I vowed throughout the pilgrimage that this should not end as a personal experience. I believe there is a role for me to serve in creating and spreading programs that care for oneself through walking, meditate to reflect on oneself, and purify body and mind through walking."