[Joyongjun's Manri Yodam] Uljin Snow Crab or Yeongdeok Snow Crab... Wangdolcho Would Laugh

Crab Festival Returns After 3 Years Post-COVID
Old Originality Debate Rekindled
Eliminating Overcharging to Appeal with Quality Products

Wangdolcho (Uljin Reef). It is an underwater reef located 23 km east of Hupo-ri, Uljin-gun, Gyeongbuk Province. Its size is 21 km from east to west and 54 km from north to south. It is an underwater mountain range running parallel to the Baekdudaegan mountain range for 140 ri. Known as a golden fishing ground, it supports the livelihoods of fishermen along the East Coast with its abundant marine resources. In 2019, the Korea Fisheries Resources Agency designated Wangdolcho as the first national core value sea forest for protection.

This mysterious reef is the habitat of snow crabs in season. The snow crabs caught around Wangdolcho at this time of year are full of meat and have a deep, unique sweetness. The name "daege" (snow crab) does not come from the crab’s large body. It is named so because each extended leg is straight like a bamboo (da, 竹).

As the snow crab season begins, the long-standing debate over the origin of snow crabs heats up. The dispute over whether it is "Uljin Daege" or "Yeongdeok Daege" is nothing new. At one point, lawsuits were even filed over the original title. It was so intense that a joke circulated advising people not to mention Uljin Daege at Yeongdeok’s Ganggu Port or Yeongdeok Daege at Uljin’s Hupo Port.

Snow crabs originate from Wangdolcho off the coast of Uljin. However, people tend to regard Yeongdeok Daege as the real snow crab rather than Uljin Daege. Why is that?

The argument from Uljin’s side is as follows. In the 16th-century geographical record Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam, snow crabs, recorded as "jahae" (purple crab), are listed as specialties of Pyeonghae-gun and Uljin-hyeon. During the Joseon Dynasty, Yi Sanhae, who served as Chief State Councillor, was exiled to this area and named it Haepo (Crab Port) because of the abundance of snow crabs.

The problem was distribution. In the 1930s, fishing boats flocked to Yeongdeok’s Ganggu Port, which was more accessible than Uljin due to poor transportation. As Yeongdeok became the main intermediate distribution point for snow crabs, the name Yeongdeok Daege became established.

Yeongdeok presents historical evidence from the 23rd year of King Taejo of Goryeo’s reign (940 AD), when Wang Geon presented snow crabs at the royal table during his inspection of Yeju. They also claim the origin village theory, saying that the Yeju magistrate found the taste of snow crabs so special that he traveled by carriage and stayed, naming the village Chayuma (meaning "carriage stay"). Uljin counters by claiming the village Geoil, where many snow crabs are caught, as their origin. The two villages are 25 km apart in a straight line, with Wangdolcho located in the sea between them to the east.

The debate does not end there. Every year when the snow crab festivals are held, the controversy flares up again. This year, the tension is particularly high.

After a three-year hiatus due to COVID-19, the festivals have resumed. The problem is that the festival dates overlap until the 26th of this month, intensifying the rivalry. Before COVID-19, there was an unspoken agreement that Uljin’s festival would be held at the end of February and Yeongdeok’s in March. For some reason, Yeongdeok moved its festival date earlier this year, raising tensions to a peak.

A merchant met in Hupo said, "After waiting three years for the snow crab festival, it’s frustrating that Yeongdeok starts on the same date," and expressed discomfort, saying, "Since Yeongdeok is more recognized for snow crabs, the customers will be divided."

In any case, the die is cast. The snow crab festivals in both regions are similar in character and content. From a tourist’s perspective, it doesn’t matter whether it’s Uljin or Yeongdeok. Both serve snow crabs caught from Wangdolcho. Occasionally, unscrupulous merchants even mix in Russian snow crabs to increase profits.

It is time to discard the self-serving snow crab rivalry between the two regions. The feelings of diners who travel far to taste seasonal snow crabs must be considered first. Overcharging should be eliminated, and the festivals should appeal with genuine products and specialized events. Instead of disputes, discussions should focus on enhancing strengths and competitiveness. It is time to put an end to the exhausting, outdated snow crab debate.