[One Day 10,000 Steps One Day 1,000 Characters] Okinawa Manbo Course, Walking the Cultural Heritage Shuri Castle

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[Okinawa= Asia Economy Reporter Jeon Jinyoung] Most travel in Okinawa is done by car, but there is a walking course where you can slowly stroll and feel the unique atmosphere of Okinawa. It is a course that tours Shuri Castle and its surrounding areas, which hold the independent history of Okinawa, formerly known as the Ryukyu Kingdom. If you focus on the main spots, it takes just over an hour to walk, and since the course is quiet and without roads for cars, it is very suitable for walking.

The appearance of Shuri Castle. On the right, a guide wearing the traditional attire of the Ryukyu Kingdom stands.

In Okinawa, where a monorail runs instead of a subway, Shuri Castle is located about a 10-minute walk from this monorail station. Walking around the nearby area for about an hour allows you to cover approximately 4 km.

Shuri Castle was the residence of the king of the Ryukyu Kingdom, an independent country separate from Japan in the past. It is estimated to have been built in the early 13th century when the Ryukyu Kingdom was established, but the exact date of construction is unknown. While most Japanese castles, such as Osaka Castle, are characterized by white walls and raised eaves, the buildings of Shuri Castle give a rather Chinese castle-like impression.

This style emerged because the Ryukyu Kingdom prospered through intermediary trade between China, Korea, and Japan. Therefore, Shuri Castle exudes an exotic atmosphere quite different from the familiar Japanese ambiance. At the entrance, there is a red gate called 'Shureimon' (守禮門), meaning 'Gate of Courtesy.' The plaque reads 'Shurei no Kuni' (守禮之邦), which literally means a country that honors courtesy. This gate was used to welcome envoys from China, and when the king changed, investiture officials came to deliver the royal seal. This is evidence that there was more active exchange with China than with Japan in the past.

As you slowly ascend, you can encounter the guardian lion-dogs called 'Shisa.' Resembling Korea’s Haetae, Shisa are legendary creatures of Okinawa inspired by lions. Scholars believe they originated from ancient Orient and came through China. Shisa vary slightly in appearance depending on their role, such as guarding homes, shops, or palaces. At Shuri Castle, you can see the dignified palace-guarding Shisa.

Inside the palace, there are also ritual sites such as shrines, which are characteristic of the ‘Gusuku’ castles of the Ryukyu Kingdom. This shows that Shuri Castle served not only as a royal palace but also had religious functions.

A glimpse of the palace at Shuri Castle.

Walking while encountering the unique castle architecture and guides dressed in traditional Ryukyu costumes, you eventually reach the center of Shuri Castle. However, instead of the main hall (Seiden), the core of the palace, you are met with a construction notice. The main hall of Shuri Castle was completely destroyed by fire, and only part of the restoration is open to the public.

This reflects the unfortunate history of Okinawa. Shuri Castle has repeatedly been restored and destroyed. During the Ryukyu Kingdom era, a fire broke out due to internal conflicts. Later, Japan incorporated the Ryukyu Kingdom into Okinawa Prefecture, expelled the king from Shuri Castle, and used it as a military base. During the U.S. invasion of Okinawa, Shuri Castle served as the Japanese military headquarters and was ultimately burned down by U.S. forces in 1945.

Afterwards, it was used as a building for Ryukyu University and did not fulfill its original role until restoration was finally completed in January 2019, restoring its 18th-century appearance. However, less than a year after restoration, in October of the same year, the main hall was destroyed by an unexplained fire.

The scene of power restoration work open to the public.

At least some roof tiles and dragon head ornaments that were not completely burned are on display, allowing visitors to imagine the size and grandeur of the main hall at that time. Above all, it is especially regrettable that the old appearance cannot be seen because the Ryukyu Kingdom and Joseon had long exchanged relations, and the Joseon Wangjo Sillok (Annals of the Joseon Dynasty) even mentioned that Shuri Castle resembled Gyeongbokgung’s Geunjeongjeon.

Putting aside these complex emotions, when you reach the summit, you can see the city of Okinawa at a glance. Although the sea is visible in the distance, the city view is predominant because when Shuri Castle was built, there was an instruction that "the Ryukyu Kingdom should not appear small."

A view of the city seen from the Shuriseong Observatory.

When walking Shuri Castle, it is also recommended to enjoy Okinawa’s traditional tea, 'Sanpincha.' Sanpincha, which can be easily purchased at convenience stores or vending machines in Okinawa, is derived from the Okinawan pronunciation of the Chinese 'Jasmine tea.' It is jasmine mixed with Japanese-style green tea, making it easy to drink while walking without any aversion.

After spending about thirty minutes touring Shuri Castle and descending, you can encounter a quiet Japanese village scene. It takes about 20 minutes on foot from Okinawa Prefectural University of Arts to the monorail Kibo Station. Small neighborhood shops and houses are scattered throughout, creating a quiet yet charming atmosphere.

From February, the village begins to be dyed red with flowers in the warm weather. In Okinawa, cherry blossoms called 'Hikan Zakura' bloom during this period. Unlike the white cherry blossoms seen in Korea, these have a pink hue because they are ‘Kampanulata cherry trees,’ which bloom the earliest among cherry trees. These cherry blossoms can be seen in warm countries like Okinawa and Taiwan.

Hikanzakura blooming on the way to Gibo Station.

From Kibo Station, you can take the monorail back to Naha city center. The Ryukyu Kingdom, which used a language different from mainland Japan and flourished with its unique culture, is why the people of Okinawa hold Shuri Castle so dearly?they do not want to sever these roots. Okinawa, where frequent foreign invasions and wars meant that everyday life on the island was a process of mourning before it became a tourist destination. Walking through the remnants of the old Ryukyu Kingdom behind the sights and food offers a different kind of journey.

Okinawa= Reporter Jeon Jinyoung jintonic@