[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Walking Through Autumn Following the Romance and Charm Crafted by Joseon Scholars

Wolyeonjeong Pavilion on the Cliff Where the Miryanggang and Danjangcheon Rivers Meet

Autumn at Wiyangji, a hot place in Miryang

Autumn at Wiyangji

Wolyeondae in Autumn

Wolyeondae

Autumn at Yeongnamnu Pavilion

Autumn Encountered on the Way to Cheonhwangsan

[Asia Economy, Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] It is a perfect season for strolling or walking. We head to a place where you can calmly walk along the wind and clouds while enjoying serene scenery and soothe your mind. It is Miryang Wolyeonjeong (a Gyeongnam Tangible Cultural Property), a villa garden full of romance and charm created by a Joseon scholar. It is a walking garden that best suits the autumn day of emptiness and fulfillment. Sitting on the Wolyeonjeong floor, the Miryang River flows carrying autumn beyond the fence. Birdsong flows from the forest, a cool breeze tickles the nape of the neck, and distracting thoughts in the mind disappear before you know it.

Wolyeonjeong is about 10 minutes from downtown Miryang. It is a pavilion located on a cliff where the Miryang River and Danjang Stream meet, built by Wolyeon Lee Tae, who served as Hanlim Haksa during the reign of King Jungjong of Joseon. Born into a prestigious family in Hanyang, he grew up in Miryang where his maternal family lived. In 1510 (the 5th year of King Jungjong), he passed the civil service examination, and in 1519, when the Kimyo Sahwa (literati purges) occurred, he was the governor of Hamgyeong Province. However, seeing many reformist scholars killed or dismissed, he abandoned his official post and returned home to build Wolyeondae and Ssanggyungdang as his villa. Lee Tae called himself Wolyeonjuin (Master of Wolyeon), and the world called him Kimyo Wanin (the flawless man of the Kimyo year), meaning "a person who lived without harm or blemish to body or honor."

On the way to Wolyeonjeong, once you park your car at the parking lot, a forest path unfolds immediately. It is wide enough for two people to pass each other. Between the branches on the right, the sunlight sparkles on the water as the Miryang River flows leisurely. The forest is in full autumn. The refreshing breeze makes walking pleasant.

After a short forest path, there is a high stone retaining wall on the left, and beyond the fence above it, you can see the eaves gently rising toward the sky. This is Ssanggyungdae. There is a small side gate on the right. Passing through the side gate and walking a few steps toward the sound of the valley water, you will see Ssangcheonggyo (Twin Clear Bridge) over a shallow valley. It means "both the moon and water are clear." Crossing the bridge leads to Wolyeonjeong. The name of this valley is Yeongwolgwan (Welcoming Moon Stream), carrying the beautiful meaning of a brook welcoming the moon.

Ssanggyungdang and the adjacent Jeheon and Wolyeonjeong are collectively called the Wolyeondae area (a scenic site). During the Joseon era, pavilions were mostly built individually, but the Wolyeondae area is unique in that several buildings are grouped together, similar to Soswaewon in Damyang (a scenic site). The first place to look into is Ssanggyungdang. Ssanggyung (Twin Mirrors) means the river and the moon are both bright like mirrors. It was burned during the Japanese invasions of 1592 (Imjin War) but was rebuilt in 1757 (the 33rd year of King Yeongjo) by his descendant Wolam Lee Ji-bok. Next to Ssanggyungdang is Jeheon (Clear Eaves Pavilion), built to commemorate Lee Tae’s eldest son Lee Won-ryang. The name, meaning the eaves when the rain stops, is one of the most poetic names you can hear.

Leaving Ssanggyungdang, cross Ssangcheonggyo and head toward Wolyeonjeong. The pavilion is built on a stone retaining wall on a sheer cliff. Looking up in front of the stone wall, you can see the Wolyeondae signboard. On the left, there is a stone staircase leading into Wolyeonjeong.

Wolyeonjeong is a building with a hip-and-gable roof, five bays wide and two bays deep. There is one room in the center surrounded by a wooden floor on all sides. It clearly shows the Joseon scholar’s view of nature and traditional landscaping style, aiming to bring nature as much as possible into the building. Sitting on the floor, you can see the Miryang River flowing bathed in autumn light. How would the moonlit scenery look here? When the full moon rises, the moonlight reflects long on the river like a pillar, called Woljugyeong (Moon Pillar View). The old people held poetry gatherings here every full moon when the moon pillar appeared. I want to sit here on an autumn night and see the moonlight reflected on the Miryang River at least once. The Wolyeondae area is lovely in autumn but also worth visiting in late summer when the crape myrtle flowers bloom. There are crape myrtles scattered around the pavilion.

Before going to Wolyeonjeong, you can see a small tunnel. It is Yongpyeong Tunnel, used when the Gyeongbu Line opened in 1905. When the Gyeongbu Line was double-tracked in 1940, the railway was relocated, and the tunnel is now used as a general road. It is 3 meters wide and about 130 meters long. The movie Ddonggae starring Jung Woo-sung was filmed here.

Yeongnamnu (a Treasure) is the most iconic travel destination when thinking of Miryang. Standing overlooking the Miryang River, Yeongnamnu is counted among Korea’s three great pavilions along with Jinju Chokseoknu and Pyongyang Bupyeongnu. It is five bays wide and four bays deep with a hip-and-gable roof. As an annex building of Miryanggwan, the guesthouse of Miryang Dohobu, it hides splendid and intricate decorations everywhere. Inside, there are numerous signboards with poems and writings by famous calligraphers and great writers of the time.

Yeongnamnu is most charming at dusk. Sitting at Yeongnamnu at sunset, the sound of the Miryang River flowing moistens your ears, and the sunset glow from across the river colors your forehead red. Yeongnamnu viewed from the riverbank across the Miryang River is also charming. Illuminated by splendid lights, Yeongnamnu is so beautiful it naturally draws admiration.

These days, the travel spot attracting attention in Miryang is Wiyangji. It is a reservoir built during the Silla period, originally named Yangyangji, but also called Wiyangji (meaning "Reservoir for the Good People") because it was built for the good people. In the middle of Wiyangji, there are five small islands and Wanjaejeong Pavilion. Willow trees grow by the pond, creating a mysterious landscape. A walking trail circles the pond, making it a great place to feel the autumn atmosphere while walking.

Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Directions=Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway → Gyeongbu Expressway → Jungang Expressway → Miryang IC → Ulsan Eonyang direction → Sanwoe-ro → Hwadonggang-gil direction → Changwon Miryang direction → Daegu Cheongdo direction → Wolyeonjeong

△Attractions=Pyochungsa Temple, Yongamjeong Pavilion, Miryang Dam, Yeongnam Alps Eoreumgol Cable Car, Cheonhwangsan Trekking