[Jo Yongjun's Journey Manli] Primal Forest Shrouded in Mist... "Set Your Worries Aside for a While"

Mujoo Deogyusan - A Charming Mountain Where Hiking and Walking Coexist, 20 Minutes to the Summit by Gondola

Deogyusan offers the charm of both hiking and leisurely walks. Taking the gondola allows anyone to easily reach the summit in just 20 minutes, but to fully enjoy Deogyusan's deep forests and valleys, it is best to go hiking.

Fields of Muju dyed in autumn colors

Mujugucheondong Valley

Clouds are drifting back and forth behind the focus.

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] Deokyu (德裕) means abundant virtue. This abundant virtue has shaped Deogyusan Mountain (1,614m) with its broad embrace. The Sobaek Mountain Range, branching off from the Taebaek Mountain Range, extends southwest, giving rise to Sobaeksan and Songnisan Mountains, and then continues toward Jirisan, with Deogyusan standing prominently at its center. It spans two provinces?Jeollabuk-do’s Muju and Jangsu, and Gyeongsangnam-do’s Geochang and Hamyang counties?covering four counties in total. It is also the fourth highest mountain in South Korea. Perhaps because of this, Deogyusan, boasting excellent panoramic views, attracts visitors year-round. Centered around the main peak, Hyangjeokbong, a majestic ridge about 1,300m high stretches southwest for over 30 kilometers. Among these, Deogyusan’s Hyangjeokbong is accompanied by Jibong to the east and Chilbong to the north. Deogyusan has eight valleys, among which the 70-ri valley flowing north between Muju and Mupung into Namdaecheon, a tributary of the Geum River, is the famous Muju Gucheondong. Waterfalls, pools, bizarre rock cliffs, and rapids create breathtaking scenery with crystal-clear streams, forming the 33 scenic spots of Gucheondong. With landscapes of varying depths, dense forests, and winding valleys, we head toward Deogyusan.

The hike starts at the Gucheondong Exploration Support Center, passes Baekryeonsa Temple and Hyangjeokbong (1614m), and descends via Osujagul Cave?this is the most popular hiking route on Deogyusan.

The first steps are easy and leisurely. The 6km section to Baekryeonsa is a gentle path 2-3 meters wide, suitable for people of all ages without burden. This path also encompasses part of Muju Gucheondong. Muju Gucheondong refers to the 28km valley stretching north from Hyangjeokbong to Najetongmun. It is a fairyland where bizarre rocks, primeval forests, clear pools and ponds, and waterfalls harmonize. Among these, the 33 scenic spots are especially beautiful.

Passing Wolhatan and Deogyu Camping Ground, the 15th and 16th scenic spots of Muju Gucheondong, the real hiking begins. The sound of the valley water rushing with white foam, the clear bird songs and wind sounds, and the hidden scenic spots soothe the weary heart. The gentle slope makes the steps light. Along the mountain path, beautiful valleys stretch endlessly, and forests turning autumnal colors continue.

Especially, the approximately 3.3km section from Inwoldam to Ansindae is called the Gucheondong Eosagil, a trail where one can feel the sentiment of ancient scholars.

It is said that during the late Joseon Dynasty, government inspector Park Munsu (1691?1756) visited Gucheondong, punished those who oppressed the residents, and restored human morality, hence the name. Originally, Eosagil was a path used by residents living along the valley to travel between their homes.

The trail passes several beautiful pools with lovely names. Listening to the sound of trees fluttering in the wind and the water in the valley is like playing a geomungo (Korean zither) at Geumpotan (琴浦灘, 22nd scenic spot). At Hotanam (虎嘆岩, 23rd scenic spot), one can hear the sad song of a tiger. At Cheongryugye (淸流溪, 24th scenic spot), clear water flows between dense forests and bizarre rocks. Walking slowly while appreciating these sights leads to Ansindae (安心臺). For those who find hiking burdensome, walking only the Eosagil to Ansindae is recommended.

The path offers many beautiful views such as Myeonggyeongdam and Gucheon Waterfall, leaving no room for boredom even for a moment. Trees like water birch, ash, alder, oak, willow, and pine are lush with moisture, making the surroundings very fresh.

The 6km section to Baekryeonsa passes quickly without notice. Baekryeonsa is located at the end of the Muju Gucheondong valley and is one of the highest temples in Korea. In the past, there were 14 temples in this valley, but all were abandoned except this one. It is said that during the reign of King Sinmun of Silla, Baekryeon Seonsa lived here in seclusion, and white lotus flowers bloomed, leading to the construction of the temple named Baekryeonam (White Lotus Hermitage).

At the temple entrance, a trail leading up to Osujagul Cave is visible, which is the descent route. The path to Hyangjeokbong is to the right of the Daeungjeon Hall.

The distance from Baekryeonsa to Hyangjeokbong is 2.5km. Although relatively short, the course is a continuous uphill climb. Passing the grand stupa inscribed "Baekryeonsa Staircase," the legs begin to feel the strain.

When the thighs burn and breath reaches the throat, you stand at the summit of Deogyusan, Hyangjeokbong. Due to shifting rain clouds, the surroundings are shrouded in clouds, making it impossible to see even a foot ahead.

Those at the summit take commemorative photos. Indeed, the summit of Deogyusan is a place anyone would be proud of. On clear days from Hyangjeokbong, ridges around 1300m high such as Jeoksangsan, Namdeogyusan, and Jungbong appear like waves rolling in. The summit offers an unobstructed 360-degree view with fresh air filling the lungs. To the east beyond overlapping ridges lies Gayasan, and to the south stretches the main ridge of Jirisan. The sea of clouds flowing east-west over the north-south mountain ridges is also a spectacular sight unique to Deogyusan.

The descent passes Jungbong, about 20 minutes from Hyangjeokbong, then heads toward Osujagul Cave. The path from Hyangjeokbong to Jungbong features a colony of yew trees. Deogyusan’s yew wood is known for its hardness and was historically used for royal tablets.

From Osujagul Cave to Baekryeonsa, a quiet path continues. Walking this path, one can almost hear the pure breath of nature.

There is also a very easy descent route. From Hyangjeokbong, move to Seolcheonbong and take the Muju Resort tourist gondola down. The trail made of wooden stairs is about 0.6km one way and takes about 20 minutes. Along the trail, you can observe yew trees hundreds of years old and various alpine plants. The path is well maintained, allowing children and the elderly to easily reach the summit. It is also a popular outing course for families.

Muju = Written and photographed by travel specialist Jo Yongjun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Directions=From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu or Jungbu Expressway, then exit at Muju IC on the Daejeon-Tongyeong Expressway, turn left, and take National Route 19. After passing Jeoksang-myeon Samgeori, Sasan Samgeori, Chimok Tunnel, and Gucheondong Tunnel, head toward Deogyu Camping Ground to reach the Deogyusan National Park Exploration Support Center.

◇Exploration Courses

△Beginner Course=Taking the Muju Resort tourist gondola allows easy access to Seolcheonbong. From the gondola terminal, the trail to Hyangjeokbong summit continues via wooden stairs and takes about 20 minutes. Even without hiking preparation, one can enjoy a light uphill walk and beautiful scenery, making it popular among all ages.

△Recommended Course=The route from Gucheondong Exploration Support Center to Baekryeonsa, Hyangjeokbong, Jungbong, Osujagul Cave, back to Baekryeonsa, and then to the Exploration Support Center (total 19.8km) is a beautiful path along deep valleys. Hiking to the Deogyusan summit is great, but walking the valley path from the support center to Baekryeonsa is also recommended.

△Traverse Course=Traversing the main ridge of Deogyusan is challenging even for experienced hikers. The exploration course from Gucheondong Exploration Support Center in Muju County to Yeonggak Exploration Support Center in Hamyang County, Gyeongnam Province, is 26.9km one way. It is better to stay overnight at a mountain shelter rather than doing it in a single day.