[Jo Yongjun's Travel Stories] A 70-Year-Old Declining Shipyard Becomes a 'Hot Place' Cafe in Sokcho

Hot Place Journey to Sokcho - Cafe Chilseong Joseonso Salon, Dong-A Bookstore, Munwoodang Seorim, Sokcho Eye Ferris Wheel~

As old and obsolete spaces continue to transform and attract tourists, the 70-year-old Chilseong Shipyard has been converted into a cafe, becoming a hot spot in Sokcho.

When you go up to the second floor of the cafe remodeled from a shipyard worker's house, Cheongchoho Lake comes into view at a glance.

A Dong-A Bookstore Filled with a Cozy Cafe Atmosphere

[Asia Economy Travel Specialist Reporter Yongjun Cho] In the book "Korea Docent Sokcho Edition" written by Kim Young-geon, the CEO of Dong-A Bookstore, one of the century-old stores in Sokcho, Gangwon-do, there is a phrase: "Sokcho is rapidly changing. From a city of displaced persons to the trendiest city." I believe there is no better expression to describe the current Sokcho. Sokcho is no longer represented only by the Abai Village ferry or Seoraksan Mountain. More and more diverse attractions are being discovered everywhere. In Sokcho, old and obsolete spaces are continuously reinterpreted and transformed by the younger generation. These reinterpreted spaces play a significant role in attracting tourists. Two neighboring bookstores in one neighborhood have been sensibly transformed by those who returned to the city and continued the legacy. Near the bus terminal, a complex space that is a bookstore, a tea house, and a guesthouse has emerged. An old, dilapidated shipyard, long in decline, has been transformed into an attractive place thanks to the value discovery by the young grandchildren. Among these, today’s travel feature visits the shipyard that has transformed into a hot place.

If you were to pick a new landmark in Sokcho, it would undoubtedly be the top choice. The "Cafe Chilseong Shipyard Salon," currently enjoying great popularity among travelers, is that place. Why is the cafe named after a shipyard? Not just in name, this was actually a shipyard where boats were built.

Chilseong Shipyard first opened in 1952. When the grandfather of Choi Yoon-sung, who now runs the cafe, opened the shipyard, it was called Wonsan Shipyard. His grandfather, originally from Wonsan, fled to Busan during the Korean War and then settled in Sokcho, which was one step closer to his hometown. Having worked in boat building during the Japanese colonial period in his hometown, his grandfather’s shipyard in Sokcho received a flood of orders. Perhaps due to his excellent boat-building skills, the business flourished like never before. This was during the time when Sokcho’s population was growing and fishing was thriving.

Later, due to aging facilities and government encouragement to retire wooden boats, the shipyard faced difficulties. The third-generation owner, Mr. Choi, after much thought, started the "Cafe Chilseong Shipyard Salon." Remodeling the house inside the shipyard to sell coffee was aimed at transforming the shipyard space into an attractive place combined with tourism. The cafe thus began to evolve into a complex cultural space where cultural performances are also enjoyed.

Chilseong Shipyard is located by Cheongchoho Lake in Sokcho. The atmosphere around Cheongchoho is unique. Dilapidated houses, newly built motels, and half-finished ruins are all mixed together. On one side of such an alley stands the Chilseong Shipyard Salon. Upon entering, there is an old shipyard building facing the sea directly, and in the yard, there are rails used to pull boats out of or launch them into the sea. Around the rails, chains and wooden materials used to moor boats are scattered here and there.

Entering the building with a large signboard reading "Chilseong Shipyard," various documents, registration certificates, and photos from the grandfather’s era are displayed. Particularly eye-catching is the 1987 new wage table announcing the new standard wages for shipbuilders.

The cafe selling coffee, Chilseong Shipyard Salon, was created by remodeling the house next to the shipyard yard. The interior features exposed concrete with bricks left visible. The cement walls remain as they are, and large windows facing the sea were installed. It gives a simple yet sophisticated feeling.

Ordering coffee and sitting by the window on the second floor, you can see high-rise buildings approaching, symbolizing the transformation of Cheongchoho and Sokcho. Although the high-rise buildings seem somewhat out of place, they are quite a sight.

Customers continuously opened the door to Chilseong Shipyard Salon. The harmony of the old shipyard’s charm and Cheongchoho Lake stimulated the sensibilities of young people. On the day the reporter visited, despite it being vacation season and rainy bad weather, customers were pouring in.

Besides Chilseong Shipyard, Sokcho has many other old places. Dong-A Bookstore, which started in 1956, is also a long-standing Sokcho institution passed down through three generations. It is said that no Sokcho resident has ever left without buying a book here. In 2015, it moved to a more comfortable location. The long table by the bright window makes it hard to tell if it’s a cafe or a bookstore. Cushions are placed in cozy reading spots, and flower vases are set among the books. Thanks to this, choosing books becomes quite enjoyable.

Near Dong-A Bookstore is Munwoo-dang Bookstore, which opened in 1984, much later than Dong-A Bookstore. Although now there are only these two bookstores, back then, there were so few bookstores in downtown Sokcho that you could count them on two hands. Despite the ongoing downturn in neighborhood bookstores, Munwoo-dang steadily grew. These two bookstores attract a fair number of out-of-town visitors?tourists coming to see the bookstores.

If you have visited the hot cafes and read plenty of books but still feel something is missing, head out to the sea. The coastal walking trail called "Sea Scent Road" runs from Oeongchi Port to Sokcho Beach. Opened to the public in April 2018, 68 years after the Korean War, this marine trail is 1.74 km long and takes about an hour to walk. The decked section from Oeongchi Port to Oeongchi Beach is 890 meters. The Sokcho city tourism website says 30 minutes is enough, but considering that your head keeps turning toward the sea and your pace slows, you should allow more time. The same applies if you walk backward from Oeongchi Beach to Oeongchi Port.

Upon arriving at Sokcho Beach, a newly introduced attraction this spring catches the eye. It is the giant Ferris wheel called Sokcho Eye. Standing 65 meters tall (equivalent to a 22-story apartment), it has 36 cabins, each with a capacity of six people. Pets are also allowed. One rotation takes about 15 minutes. The slow speed means you don’t get much time to vividly feel the increasing height. Riders can enjoy the expanding view as they slowly ascend, looking over Sokcho Beach, the small island Jodo, and the East Sea. Turning your gaze south, you can spot the Oeongchi Beach you just walked along.

Sokcho = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there= From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, then enter the Sokcho direction at Yangyang IC and head toward Cheongchosu. You will find the Seokbong Ceramic Museum, and parking is available in the vacant lot in front of it, which is very close to Chilseong Shipyard.

△Places to eat= Although there are many tourists and traffic jams, the most famous place is Sokcho Jungang Market, where you can taste various foods. Also, Saemaeul-gil Udongdang is famous for udon and handmade pork cutlets, Yeonggwangjeong Makguksu for buckwheat noodles, and Yeongranghaean 6-gil Imo-ne Restaurant for steamed fish.

△Attractions= Abai Village, Cheoksan Hot Springs, Yeongrangho Lake, Teddy Bear Farm, Seokbong Ceramic Museum, Sokcho Expo Park, Gaetbae Ferry, and Daepo Port are among the sights.