[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Adding the Finishing Touch to the Cloud-Tinted Lake, a Watercolor Painted on Paroho Lake

Enjoying a Remote Journey on Hwacheon Paroho Lake by Sailing Kayak

Sailing kayaks glide gently over the clear surface of Paroho, embracing the clouds and blue sky.

Kayak club members are traveling along the waterways of Paroho Lake.

Morning at Paroho Lake

Travelers enjoying Paroho Lake on sailing kayaks

A first-class endangered species and natural monument, the Korean goral is overlooking Paroho Lake.

Stars are pouring down over the tents of campers enjoying a remote trip to Paroho.

[Asia Economy, Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist] The wind is blowing. As the sail unfurls, it catches the wind and swiftly cuts through the water. The clear and lively sound of water droplets hitting the bow sends shivers through the body. The natural monument, the Korean goral, startled by the sound of the boat, quickly flees into the forest. The surface of Paroho Lake becomes a vast canvas, filled with fluffy clouds drifting gently, painting a picture. A red kayak glides across the painting like a brushstroke, adding a dot. The mountains surrounding the lake and the water surface rippling in the gentle breeze are all dyed in deep green under the midsummer sun. Before you know it, you forget the worldly time and surrender yourself to the waterway journey that nature offers. The summer scenery viewed while sailing 40 km along Paroho Lake by sailing kayak is this beautiful. Paroho includes the only island, Daramswi Island, as well as Haesan, where tigers once lived, the Peace Dam, and the remote village of Bisugumi. If you visit the village, be sure to try the mountain vegetable bibimbap. Trekking along Paroho is also an unmissable joy.

In the summer when the heat is intense, head to Hwacheon, Gangwon Province. Following Route 461, which runs alongside the waterway upstream, you reach Paroho Lake. After passing Hwacheon Dam, the road leaves the lakeside path and winds along the foothills. Paroho, the uppermost part of the Bukhan River, is an artificial lake created when Hwacheon Dam was built. The name, given by former President Syngman Rhee, means "Lake that defeated the barbarians (Chinese Communist forces)" during the Korean War. From the Gwangdeoksan Observatory, you can take in the panoramic view of Paroho. However, to truly feel the essence of Paroho, you need to take a boat.

Arriving at the dock in Bangcheon-ri, Gandong-myeon, kayaks and red sailing kayaks gently sway on the mirror-like calm lake. Nearby, members of a club preparing for a waterway journey on Paroho are bustling about.

The prepared kayaks smoothly glide into Paroho first. The sailing kayaks, with their sails fully unfurled, follow behind. I quickly boarded a sailing kayak of a member I had arranged with in advance. The epic journey began, covering 20 km one way from Bangcheon-ri (Otter Research Center), passing Daramswi Island, to Bisugumi Village.

The kayak slowly moves between Duryubong and Byeongpungsan. Passing by Daramswi Island, the only island in Paroho, the towering peaks surrounding the lake such as Seolanjaebong and Haesan come into layered view.

Sailing kayaks, first introduced in Korea about ten years ago, are not yet familiar as a leisure sport in the country. The high price, exceeding 10 million won per unit, and the lack of popularization mean only a few enjoy this sport. However, recently, the number of enthusiasts deeply captivated by the charm of sailing kayaks is increasing.

People often confuse canoes and kayaks. Canoes use a paddle with a blade on one side only, while kayaks use paddles with blades on both sides. Therefore, kayaks offer a faster and more active experience. Sailing kayaks differ by replacing paddles with sails and bicycle pedals installed on the boat. This allows you to enjoy a faster speed by riding the wind. If equipped with an auxiliary engine, it rivals a yacht. Unlike most marine sports enjoyed mainly in summer, sailing kayaks have the great advantage of being suitable for all seasons.

Outdoor enthusiast Shim Kwangseop (58), who accompanied the waterway journey, says, “Sailing kayaks are boats that excel in the fun of sailing by catching strong winds,” adding, “Gliding across the lake with sails full of wind offers romance and excitement incomparable to riding a typical boat.”

Shim also says, “Riding a kayak allows you to feel your body adapting to nature, and it builds strong mental and physical endurance to overcome rough waters and strong winds.”

The advantages of sailing kayaks do not end there. When there is no wind or when quick movement is needed, you can use the engine to navigate. The engine used as auxiliary power is 2.5 horsepower and can be operated without a license.

On the sparkling Paroho Lake, there are no people, and only the occasional sound of boats ferrying guests to lakeside pensions breaks the silence. Suddenly, the wind shifts to a tailwind. The kayak catches the wind and moves forward vigorously. The speed reaches nearly 12 km/h. Shim busily adjusts the sail left and right, enjoying the sailing. Only the sound of water breaking at the bow and the wind whistle pierce the ears.

On a clear day, the mountains of Hwacheon, beginning to be dyed in deep hues, reflect on the water surface under the pouring sunlight. The kayak glides into the mountains and into the clouds above the water.

A family of Korean gorals, a first-class endangered species and natural monument, leisurely resting on a rock by the water senses the passing kayak and quickly disappears into the mountains. Hwacheon is also a major habitat for gorals.

Far away, Haesan approaches majestically. It is said that tigers once lived there, and the mountain range gives an overwhelming feeling as if that were true. Passing Haesan, the Peace Dam soon looms like a massive fortress wall. The dam, located at the uppermost part of the Bukhan River basin, was built in 1986 to counter the Geumgangsan Dam started by North Korea. It is Hwacheon’s representative security tourism site. Nearby, there are several places to visit such as Bimok Park, the Peace Dam Unification Hall, and the World Peace Bell Park.

Leaving the Peace Dam, a suspension bridge leading to Bisugumi Village along the lake begins to appear. The Chinese characters for Bisugumi (秘水九美) mean “nine beautiful sceneries created by mysterious water.” The village and the path to it are just that. The village became one of the most remote areas after the construction of Hwacheon Dam and Paroho Lake blocked access long ago. It is perfect for those who want to immerse themselves in untouched natural beauty rather than crowded tourist spots.

There are several ways to reach Bisugumi. You can take a boat as described, but walking the ecological trail is also good. The Bisugumi Ecological Trail is located to the right after passing Haesan Tunnel before reaching the Peace Dam from Hwacheon. Walking about two hours through a deep, secluded forest path where even cell phones don’t work leads to the village.

In Bisugumi Village, you must try the mountain vegetable bibimbap. A couple featured on the TV program “Human Theater” serves delicious dishes. They use wild vegetables gathered from the mountains, and the taste is exquisite.

After a hearty meal, you turn back. Filling the sail with the blowing wind, you are drawn back into the lake. The summer sunlight shatters as it hits the waves rippling with the wind.

Hwacheon = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting There=Take the Seoul-Chuncheon Expressway, exit at Chuncheon TG, pass through Chuncheon city and Soyang 2 Bridge, then turn right before Chuncheon Dam to take local roads 407 and 460. After crossing Guman Bridge and passing Hwacheon Dam, you will reach the Paroho dock.

Travelers enjoying Bisugumi trekking and the local specialty, mountain vegetable bibimbap, in Bisugumi Village

△Attractions=To enjoy Paroho, you can sit on a bench at Guman-ri dock and gaze at the lake, but it is recommended to take the 1 hour 30 minute cruise on the Moolbitnuri boat. During peak season from spring to fall, it operates twice daily at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., so be sure to check the schedule. Besides Paroho, there are many attractions such as Mansan-dong Valley, Gokun Gugok, Yongdam Valley, Bungeo Island, Ttansan Recreation Area, Georye-ri Love Tree, and Sanso 100-ri Trail. Although suspended due to COVID-19, the winter Sancheoneo Festival is famous.