What If You're Overweight... 'Plus Size' Models Are Rising

"Models Must Be Slim" Prejudice Broken by Emerging Models
Domestic and International Markets Rapidly Growing... US Fashion Market Accounts for 19%
"Love Yourself As You Are"... 'Body Positivity' Also Spreading

A model is posing on the runway at 'The Curve Edit' show during Australian Fashion Week held in Sydney, Australia, last May. [Image source=EPA Yonhap News]

[Asia Economy Culture Intern Reporter Young In] The most notable figure at last March's Chanel F/W runway show was a model named Jill Kotleff (27) from the Netherlands. Among other models with slim physiques, he was the only 'plus-size' model with a fuller figure, receiving applause from the audience for his confident runway walk.

American plus-size model Tess Holliday made headlines by gracing the cover of the October 2018 issue of the fashion magazine Cosmopolitan. Photo by Cosmopolitan

'Plus size' refers to clothing sizes larger than the standard ready-to-wear measurements. It includes terms like 'XXL', 'XXXL', and 'King size'. In the U.S., plus size is defined as size '8' and above for women, with sizes 0-2 classified as XS, 4-6 as S, and 6-8 as M. Converted to Korean sizing, plus size corresponds to women's size '77' and above.

The traditional fashion industry has emphasized garment lines, resulting in models predominantly having slim body types. Consequently, extreme dieting beyond normal levels has become common among models to maintain their figures. Due to these unrealistic body shapes, young people sometimes refer to such models as 'Gaemalla Ingan' (literally 'dog-thin human,' meaning someone so thin that their bones show).

However, actual market interest in 'plus size' is increasing. According to the global market research firm NPD Group, the U.S. plus-size fashion market grows by 4.3% annually. Last year, the market size reached $113.8 billion (approximately 135 trillion KRW), accounting for 19% of the entire U.S. fashion market.

The domestic fashion market is following a similar trend. For example, the fashion platform Ably reported that transactions for 'big size' products grew 174% year-over-year during January and February this year. The number of vendors selling big size clothing on the platform also increased by 95%. Industry analysts attribute this acceleration to customers' demand for a wider range of size options.

Recently, the transaction volume in the 'Big Size' category on the domestic fashion platform Abley has surged. Photo by Abley

Plus-size models are also emerging one after another. Kim Ji-yang, editor-in-chief of the plus-size fashion culture magazine '66100' and a plus-size model herself, stated, "We are working to change the standards of women's beautiful bodies through plus size."

A plus-size model and editor of the plus-size fashion culture magazine '66100', Jiyang Kim operates a big-size shopping mall. Photo by 66100 Shopping Mall (screenshot)

A woman who appeared on last month's Channel S program 'Jingeog-ui Halmae' (Attack of the Grandmas) shared her experiences with people's stares and stalking, explaining that she started as a plus-size model to regain her self-esteem. On the show, she said, "I learned to appreciate the beauty of my body and how to love it as it is."

Professor Jo Ah-young of the Modeling Department at Seoul Institute of the Arts described the increase in plus-size models as "a positive change that breaks the prejudices held by models." She added, "It allows various models to take on challenges, and consumers can purchase products that fit body types similar to their own rather than uniform ones."

Abroad, many famous brands such as Versace, Tory Burch, and Andar feature plus-size models on their runways. In 2017, a 'Plus Size Fashion Show' featuring only models size 110 and above was held in S?o Paulo, Brazil.

Plus-size models are walking the runway at the Versace show during Milan Fashion Week SS21. Photo by Versace

The 'body positivity movement' is also spreading. Models Nyome Nicholas Williams and Enam Asaama are representative figures. They regularly post about larger-bodied women and have even influenced Instagram's nudity photo policies.

Clothing companies are promoting plus-size models. Rihanna launched the lingerie brand 'Savage X Fenty' in 2019 under the LVMH group. This brand advertises with plus-size models and focuses on diversity in lingerie sizes.

Recently, Nike selected comedian Kim Min-kyung as the campaign model for 'Everyone's Playground,' and Adidas featured plus-size yoga instructor Jesaman Stanley in their advertisements. Both companies' ads emphasize 'positive healthy beauty,' receiving favorable responses for pairing well with activewear.

Sportswear brand Adidas has appointed yoga instructor Jesaman Stanley as their model. Photo by Adidas

U.S. lingerie company Victoria's Secret has been hiring models of various body types and races, including plus-size models, since last year. Swimwear brand Chromat has also been praised for breaking stereotypes about bikinis by featuring models with disabilities or older age in their advertisements.

Professor Jo said, "At first, it may feel awkward and uncomfortable to the public, but in the broader view, it will come across as friendly and positive."