[Future of Seochon]③ Hwang Pyeong-woo, Director of Cultural Heritage Policy Institute: "Seochon is Seochon... Must Become an 'Eco-Museum' Where History and Economic Life Coexist"

Seochon, Reflecting 600 Years of Seoul's Identity
Development Issues: Much to Lose
Height Should Match Gyeongbokgung Rather Than High-Rise
Consider 'Indirect Currency' as Alternative to Persuade Residents
Preserving Area and Economy Together Through 'Eco Museum'

Seochon Village, Jongno-gu, Seoul. Narrow alleys run between the hanok houses. Photo by Jinhyung Kang aymsdream@
Hwang Pyeong-woo, Director of the Cultural Heritage Policy Research Institute (provided by the individual)

The relocation of the presidential office to Yongsan also heralds the 'Seochon Era.' The now-vacant Blue House has been filled with the footsteps of tourists and the desire for old town redevelopment. Real estate agencies in the Seochon, Samcheong-dong, and Cheongunhyoja-dong areas have been receiving a continuous stream of investment inquiries, and commercial property asking prices have soared.

However, on the other hand, voices are growing that the increase in tourists and the revitalization of commercial districts are not the entirety of the 'Seochon Era,' nor should they be. With the power that symbolically suppressed the heart of Seoul moving out, it has become an opportunity to rethink the space called Seochon.

Seochon is the old town in the heart of the city, possessing a unique historical and traditional character. At the same time, it shares the common issue of Korean cities as a neglected old town. In that sense, Seochon represents both the present and future of Korean cities. What has Seochon looked like so far, and what should it look like going forward? Asia Economy met with Seochon residents, merchants, public officials, and politicians to hear various stories about Seochon's past, present, and future. [Editor's Note]

Hwang Pyeong-woo, director of the Cultural Heritage Policy Research Institute, said that Seochon is the space that best embodies the identity of '600 years of Seoul.' This is because the thread of housing history, from Goryeo-era hanok to Joseon, Japanese colonial period, and modern times, flows through this place, Seochon. For this reason, Director Hwang has been interested in Seochon's cultural heritage since the 1990s and has conducted investigations. When we met in Seochon on the afternoon of the 13th, he emphasized that Seochon should become an 'eco-museum' where residents can preserve history and engage in economic activities together, rather than reckless development.

---What is the historical significance of Seochon within the city of Seoul?

▶(Hwang Pyeong-woo) I believe Seochon can show the identity of Seoul as a 600-year-old capital city better than Bukchon. Bukchon has many hanoks that are highly standardized due to heavy capital investment, whereas Seochon is a place where the irregularity, that is, many curves, remain alive, harmonizing naturally with people's lives. In every alley, there are hanoks with different forms from the early Joseon period to the Japanese colonial era. Seochon, which holds a significant place in the flow of housing history, best preserves the identity of 600 years of Seoul. Although there are not many records, Seochon also has historical sites from the Goryeo period, such as the Namgyeong relic site, and even prehistoric relics.

---The historical significance of Seochon seems great. Then, what are some symbolic places in Seochon?

▶There are many symbolic places, such as the Hong Geon-ik House, designated as a Seoul City Folklore Cultural Property. But if you go deeper inside, there are rows of hanoks where ordinary people lived. I consider these precious as well.

Also, I want to mention something important: 'Songseokwon.' Seochon was a place where cultural artists born as illegitimate children stayed, and where yeohang and wihang literature blossomed. Songseokwon was a place where these people gathered to drink and discuss philosophy and literature. There is a rock inscription that says 'Songseokwon,' but it is buried in concrete and not visible. We collaborated with Kongju National University to find the exact location of this rock inscription but unfortunately could not find it. I hope more meaningful sites like this will be discovered one by one.

The 'Okryudong' rock inscription remaining in the Okryudong Valley near Songseokwon. Its location was unknown after the 1950s until it was discovered in 2019. The 'Songseokwon' rock inscription has not yet been found. / Source: Wikipedia

※Songseokwon (松石園): According to the Blue House and surrounding historical and cultural heritage, Songseokwon was the name of the house where the commoner poet Cheon Su-gyeong lived during the Joseon King Jeongjo era. It was located deep in the valley of Inwangsan Mountain and was famous for its scenic beauty where pine trees and rocks harmonized. In July of the 10th year of Jeongjo's reign (1786), Cheon Su-gyeong formed a poetry literary society (Sisa) with 13 poets of the same middle-class status, including Cha Jwa-il, Jang Hon, and Jo Su-sam, in Okgyo, also known as Okryudong, where Songseokwon is located. This society was called Songseokwon Sisa or Okgyo Sisa. During the Japanese colonial period, Songseokwon became Byeoksusanjang, the villa of Yun Deok-young, who collaborated with the Japanese. (Source: Naver Encyclopedia)

※Wihang Literature (委巷文學): A literary style formed in late Joseon centered in Seoul by lower-ranking officials and commoners from the jungin, seol, and seori classes. Also called Yeohang Literature (閭巷文學). From the 18th century, classes below the yangban aristocracy, including merchants and commoners, participated in classical Chinese literary activities, and from the 19th century, their activities formed a major trend in the poetry scene. The term 'wihang' was used for convenience, referring to the lower classes below jungin, who were called wihangin. This literature expanded into a social mobility movement and reached its peak in the 18th century Wihang literary movement. (Source: Naver Encyclopedia)

A panoramic view of the Seochon area. Low-rise buildings such as hanok and villas are clustered together.

---There are expectations for Seochon's development potential. Director, I understand you have argued that development around Gyeongbokgung should be strictly controlled from the perspective of historical and cultural landscape. Is your position similar this time?

▶ The problem with development is that much is lost. Once gone, it is difficult to reproduce. When people think of historical and cultural landscapes, they often consider only the skyline, but I think about the meaning of the space. Places that have been capitals for over a thousand years are rare worldwide. Seoul has been a capital for about 1,300 years, from the Baekje capital to Goryeo's Namgyeong and Joseon's capital. The symbolism of that history is contained in this area.

Also, Seochon has a history of diplomatic and cultural exchange. Jungin such as interpreters lived in Seochon. Literary figures of yeohang literature, including Park Ji-won, Park Je-ga, and Jeong Yak-yong, who promoted Silhak (practical learning), requested interpreters to import foreign books to accept new cultures. Moving into modern times, Seochon was also a residential area for people who moved to Seoul from the provinces struggling to make a living. There is also a history of artists such as poets Cheon Sang-byeong, Yun Dong-ju, and novelist Lee Sang. There are houses built during the Japanese colonial period, such as the Dongyang Cheoksik Company officials' residences, and houses with traces of Japanese rule. As I mentioned earlier, Seochon is not only an interesting area but also a very meaningful one. It is important that it is still maintained and lived in as it is. Reconstruction would erase this historical and cultural landscape and space. Also, the residents living here would have to leave.

Although I am a cultural heritage expert, I believe the term 'restoration' should be used cautiously. True restoration requires restoring time, space, and sentiment. Rebuilding or newly constructing is replication, not restoration. Restoration itself has become difficult for places like the Namgyeong relic site or Changuigung site. The view from Pilundae, where Baeksa Yi Hang-bok is said to have looked down on Hanyang Fortress, is now blocked by new 5-6 story concrete buildings. This is very regrettable. Under the current circumstances, what can be done is to preserve well rather than build high-rise developments.

I hope no high-rise buildings are constructed in Seochon. People are contradictory when you think about it. When traveling abroad, people visit old towns like Paris, Rome, and Florence, where high-rise buildings are rare. Korea should mature culturally rather than develop chasing money and profit. Around Gyeongbokgung, development should be aligned with the hanok houses, similar to Gyeongbokgung, rather than building high-rise buildings.

Gatekeepers dressed in traditional clothing guard in front of Gwanghwamun, the main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Photo by Hwang Seoyul

---However, since the Blue House opened to the public, some residents have expressed expectations for development. What do you think is necessary to persuade these residents toward the direction of 'preservation'?

▶ I think support in the form of 'indirect currency' for residents is necessary. This means giving benefits equivalent to those for national merit recipients to people living in cultural heritage protection zones or natural monument protection zones. In the 21st century, those who suffer to protect cultural heritage or natural monuments can also be considered national merit recipients. There will inevitably be discussions about infringement on residents' property rights. The government could buy the land as an alternative, but some residents may not want to leave the area. Instead of giving them direct money, economic benefits such as various tax exemptions and transportation subsidies can instill pride in contributing to preserving the area. I believe such institutional and systemic support can encourage preservation and be a sustainable alternative.

---Then, what is needed for Seochon to gain synergy effects along with the opening of the Blue House?

▶ With the Blue House opening, many outsiders will come for tourism. Unlike the Blue House or Gyeongbokgung, Seochon is a living space for ordinary people, so it is neither grand nor flashy. Rather than coming solely for tourism, content that can be seen and felt together is needed. But this should not be artificially created. It should not be content started by someone in power and made exclusive, but a public-private governance where residents and experts participate together. I think open discussions where these groups integrate and express opinions are necessary.

I hope the inner life is healthy. The city should not just create flashy hanoks on the surface. Considering Seochon's cultural and historical significance, hanoks should not be significantly altered from their existing state, and they should be operated as actual living spaces, not just managed hanoks. Cultural spaces are good, but they should not be places that are used briefly and then closed. They should be used as residential areas. For example, long-term leases could be given to young people to live in hanoks, and young people could create programs to interact with local residents, thus developing cultural spaces.

The night of the 8th, two days before the full opening to the public, in front of Cheongwadae. Barricades are set up at the gate leading to Cheongwadae.
Photo by Hwang Seoyul

---Earlier, you mentioned the term 'eco-museum.' Does this align with your vision for Seochon's development?

▶ Yes. I hope Seochon becomes an eco-museum. An eco-museum is where residents live in the area, engage in economic activities, preserve the region, and maintain cultural spaces. Yongin Folk Village is also an eco-museum, but people commute there. It would be good if local residents live in Seochon, form a village community, and manage and coordinate the entire village. Experts can also participate in discussions. For example, important village issues like the excessive influx of cafes can be discussed and decided collectively and proactively by the community.

※Eco-museum: A type of museum where local residents preserve and inherit the unique culture, natural and cultural heritage of the region while informing the general public. Residents directly operate the museum and run experiential programs, so it is also called a 'living museum.'

---Finally, if you were to name Seochon as 'what kind of village it is,' what would you say?

▶ Seochon is just Seochon. Not every special noun or proper noun is necessarily good. Common nouns include everything. Many historical figures have passed through here, and you cannot pinpoint just one representative figure. It is called 'Seochon' because it is west of Gyeongbokgung. I think that name best captures Seochon's history.