[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Dutasan's Battel Rock Where Immortals Roamed... Getting One Step Closer

Journey to Dutasan in Mureung Valley, Donghae - Spectacular Jagged Rock Formations and Solid Ridge Views, Hanseom Sea Sensibility Trail, Dojwaebigol Sky Valley, and More Attractions

Between Mureung Valley and Dutasan Mountain, there is a majestic rocky peak called Betteulbawi. A new trail has been created in this previously hard-to-find area due to difficult terrain, allowing visitors to fully enjoy the spectacular scenery of the rugged and uniquely shaped rocks.

There is no place like Mureungdowon. Rain falls on Dutasan Mountain, and clouds frequently drift along the Baekdudaegan ridge, creating a fantastic landscape.

Mureung Valley Ssangpok Waterfall

Inscription Engraved on the Mureung Bansuk Stone

Recently Developed Hanseom Emotional Coastal Trail

Recently Developed Hanseom Emotional Coastal Trail

Ddojaebigol Sky Valley

Travelers enjoying the sky glider at Mureung Byeolyucheonji

A mountain dyed with the spring light encountered on the Donghae Expressway

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Yongjun Cho] Expectations for everyday life are swelling. Social distancing due to COVID-19 has been fully lifted after more than two years. Travel has resumed. Steps feel lighter, allowing for more relaxed trips. Although outdoor mask-wearing will remain for a while, the day will soon come when masks can be removed. We look forward to fully enjoying the deepening spring scenery while breathing in plenty of fresh air. However, it is still a bit early to visit crowded tourist spots with complete peace of mind. Instead, we head to the notoriously strenuous hiking spots that were postponed until now. Since these are places where immortals once roamed, there is no need to worry too much about their reputation. The ascent is enjoyable with surrounding scenery, and standing on the Baetle Rock Observatory opposite the cliff offers a magnificent view of rugged rock formations and dense forests. Passing the skyscraper where clouds rest and reaching the twin waterfalls soaked by spring rain, the cascading water sounds like thunder. And that’s not all. The famous inscriptions at Mureung Bansuk, visited by renowned calligraphers of the time, overflow with famous phrases. This is the story of Dutasan Mountain and Mureung Valley in Donghae City, Gangwon Province. There’s more. The newly created ‘Hanseom Emotional Sea Road’ along the sea cliffs is perfect for walking accompanied by the sound of crashing waves. Donghae is full of attractions, including the emerging hot spots Dojjaebigol Sky Valley, Haerang Observatory, Nongoldam-gil, and Chuam Candle Rock.

We head to Mureung Valley and Dutasan Mountain (1,357m). Dutasan is notorious even among experienced Korean hikers for its difficulty. However, since the second half of last year, this reputation has transformed into one of a pleasant walking trail. The reason is this: between Mureung Valley and Dutasan lies Baetle Rock, a grand rocky peak that can be called the essence of Dutasan. Previously, only a few expert mountaineers dared to climb the rugged Baetle Rock, but a new trail has been created to allow anyone to easily access it. Going further, the gorge around the twin waterfalls and the rocky cliff were named ‘Skyscraper’ and combined with the Baetle Rock course to complete a single mountain trail. Because the ascent is easier and the view rivals the best in the world, it has rapidly become a popular hiking destination.

Starting from the Mureung Valley ticket booth entrance, spring rain gently moistens the earth. ‘Mureung’ (武陵) is a Taoist term meaning an idyllic place where immortals play. True to its name, Dutasan shrouded in low clouds on a rainy day is nothing short of a mysterious Mureungdo-won (immortal’s paradise).

The hike follows a path connecting Baetle Rock Observatory, Mireuk Rock, the 12 waterfalls of the mountain fortress, Skyscraper, twin waterfalls, Samhwa Temple, and Mureung Bansuk. It takes a generous 4 to 5 hours.

Passing the ticket booth and crossing a small bridge, you will see a sign for the ‘Baetle Rock Mountain Fortress Trail.’ Going straight along this path leads directly to Mureung Bansuk, Samhwa Temple, and the twin waterfalls.

Step onto the stone stairs on the left to enter the Baetle Rock Mountain Fortress Trail. After passing a trail lined with Korean red pine trees, a little further up is the charcoal kiln site. This is a remnant of when dense native oak trees on Dutasan were cut to produce charcoal for sale. Although charcoal is no longer made here, the site has been restored to reflect its past appearance.

From the kiln site to Baetle Rock, the trail is continuously uphill. It is not a severe climb, but steep enough to make your thighs burn. However, the surrounding mountain scenery is outstanding. Massive boulders, the Jungdae Waterfall, and the vertical cliffs stretching across Mureung Valley alternate to delight the eyes. The procession of clouds frequently crossing the rain-soaked valleys is a spectacular sight.

Most impressive are the Korean red pines encountered throughout the forest. In the rocky, barren, and steep terrain, these trees stretch their thick, reddish trunks vigorously toward the sky.

Just below Baetle Rock is a cluster of Japanese boxwood trees. The sign explains that these trees have stood here for over 100 years in the harsh soil battered by wind and rain. Though modest shrubs, they unfailingly bloom in spring. Their strong fragrance surprises hikers, causing them to look around in astonishment.

Just below the observatory is a staircase. The steps have a large height difference, so auxiliary steps have been added on one side. Although somewhat awkward and uncomfortable to walk on, this staircase is the final section leading to the Baetle Rock Observatory. Climbing these stairs finally places you on the observatory opposite the cliff. It is 1.5 km from the ticket booth and takes about an hour.

The posture of Baetle Rock is truly magnificent. It is hard to appreciate while climbing, but standing on the observatory, you can fully grasp its grandeur. The towering cliff with a rock like a standing awl is harmonized with Korean red pines, creating a picturesque landscape. The name is said to come from its resemblance to a weaving batten, or from a legend of a fairy who had to weave three bolts of hemp to ascend to heaven.

Among mountaineers, it is also called Baetle Ridge Scenic Spot, the World’s Greatest Scenery Zhangjiajie, or Little Geumgang for its stunning views. Now, thanks to the observatory, anyone?not just mountaineers?can easily enjoy Dutasan’s spectacular scenery.

If hiking is not your goal, turning back here is no regret. You can also descend the same way and visit Mureung Bansuk and Samhwa Temple.

Continuing on, from Baetle Rock Observatory, head 200 meters to Mireuk Rock. Climbing wooden stairs on a steep mountain path leads to Mireuk Rock. Depending on the viewing angle, it is said to resemble Maitreya Buddha, a scholar, or an owl. From the Mireuk Rock junction, follow the signposts to Dutasan Gorge Skyscraper. Originally a treacherous area, it is now as comfortable as a promenade. This is because paths were carved into the rugged rocks and sheer cliffs, and many rocks were carefully stacked.

Passing the mountain fortress site, you are greeted by the 12 waterfalls of the fortress. The valley stretches straight but bends 12 times, creating large and small waterfalls. Turning your back to the waterfalls reveals a breathtaking view worthy of a calendar photo. You cannot take your eyes off the majestic nature, and a silent exclamation escapes.

Passing the Yongchu Waterfall signpost and descending at the saddle, a stunning observatory appears on the right, perched on a rocky cliff. This is the Skyscraper, the best place to view Dutasan Gorge. Standing here reveals another world of rocks.

From the Skyscraper Observatory, the Baekdudaegan mountain ridge draws a line clockwise from the left, connecting Cheongoksan, Mangundae, and Galmibong peaks. However, heavy raindrops and clouds blocked the Baekdudaegan scenery, leaving only regret.

Descending from the observatory, follow the cliffside trail, then turn right at the iron stairs of Bakdal Valley toward Yongchu Waterfall. The roaring sounds of the twin waterfalls, Yongchu Waterfall, and Seonnyeo Pond are as powerful as thunder. The water flows relentlessly through smooth rock surfaces shaped like inkstones, forming a valley.

Passing Samhwa Temple marks the end of the long hike. Below Samhwa Temple is the impressive Mureung Bansuk, wide enough to seat hundreds simultaneously. Many inscriptions are carved on the rock, including names of scholars who joined patriotic groups and calligraphy by Kim Si-seup, a famous scholar of the Maewoldang era. Most notably, there are rock carvings reading Mureung Seonwon (Immortal Source of Mureung), Jungdae Cheonseok (Central Terrace Spring and Rock), and Dutadongcheon (Dutasan Cave Heaven). These words are interpreted as a celestial world where immortals played, nature born from the harmony of water and stone, and a pure land free from worldly desires.

Leaving the mountain, we head to the newly created seaside trail. This is the ‘Hanseom Emotional Sea Road,’ a healing tourist spot in the city that connects with the East Coast Haeparang Trail. The section from Gamchu to Hanseom Beach to Gase Beach spans 2.2 km.

At the trail’s hot spot, the Batmeori Observatory, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the open East Sea, and the bizarre rock formations along the coast create another spectacular scene.

The dense pine forest path along the coast offers a healing walk with cool sea breezes and refreshing pine scents. Walking through the forest, you can also see the pebble beach where flat white stones and stone towers, eroded by waves, are scattered.

At night, the Rhythmic Gate, dazzling with lights and music, and the Light Tunnel, famous through social media word-of-mouth, are the most popular spots on Hanseom.

Outside Nongoldam Village overlooking Mukho Port, ‘Dojjaebigol Sky Valley’ has quickly become a hot spot in Donghae since its opening in June last year. ‘Dojjaebi’ is the local dialect for goblin. The Haerang Observatory, shaped like a goblin’s club, offers a taste of walking over the sea, while Sky Valley is a new concept adventure and scenic viewing playground.

‘Mureung Byeolyucheonji,’ opened at the entrance of Mureung Valley at the end of last year, is also gaining popularity. It is a transformed playground from a limestone quarry operated by cement company Ssangyong C&E for over 40 years since 1968. The emerald lake, gallery-cum-observatory caf?, and monster dump truck used to transport rocks are highly popular photo zones.

Mureung Byeolyucheonji offers four types of experience facilities: an alpine coaster that speeds along rails, a roller coaster-style zipline weaving through pine forests on curved aerial rails, and a luge running on quarry management roads, providing unique fun.

Donghae = Text and photos by Yongjun Cho, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway or Yeongdong Expressway, exit at Donghae IC, head toward Samcheok, then at Hyoga Intersection in Donghae City, turn toward Jeongseon and Mureung Valley.

△ Attractions = Donghae’s representative tourist spots include Chuam Candle Rock and Suspension Bridge, Nongoldam-gil, Mukho Port, Cheongok Golden Bat Cave, Mangsang Beach Auto Camping Site (photo), and Samhwa Temple. Recently popular new spots include Dojjaebigol Sky Valley, Dojjaebigol Haerang Observatory, Mureung Byeolyucheonji, and Hanseom Emotional Sea Road.