"This Feels Like the Taste of Life" ... Traditional Market Bustling After 2 Years

One Week Before Seollal Holiday, Crowds Gather at Gwangjang and Mangwon Markets
Long Lines for Market Foods Like Hotteok... Stores Except Food Stalls Remain Quiet

One week before the Lunar New Year holiday, on the 23rd, citizens are shopping at Mangwon Market in Mapo-gu, Seoul. Photo by Moon Honam munonam@

[Asia Economy reporters Jo In-kyung and Im Chun-han] "I have to try one first to see why people line up like this, and then go inside for a glass of Makgeolli with mung bean pancakes."

On the 23rd, about a week before the Lunar New Year holiday, traditional markets across Seoul were bustling with activity. From middle-aged shoppers preparing holiday foods and ceremonial items to young people heading to the markets for weekend outings, the foot traffic increased significantly, keeping merchants busy.

That afternoon, in front of a hotteok (sweet Korean pancake) shop located at the entrance of Gwangjang Market in Jongno-gu, Seoul, a long line stretched at least 50 to 60 meters. The owner and staff were frying more than 10 hotteok at a time, but since the place is considered a hot spot featured on TV programs, the line hardly shortened. Customers receiving a 1,500 won hotteok in a paper cup first took photos with their phones before carefully lowering their masks and taking a bite.

Nearby, a bindaetteok (mung bean pancake) shop was fully occupied at every indoor table with groups of three to five customers, causing a long line outside. The narrow alleys of the market were congested as people moved between food stalls, making it difficult to pass through. A customer in their twenties waiting in line said, "There are many similar pancake shops here and there, but today my friend and I decided to eat yukhoe (Korean beef tartare) and mung bean pancakes here." They added, "It's been a while since I've been to such a lively market, and it feels like the real taste of life, so I'm excited."

On the 23rd, the food stalls at Gwangjang Market in Jongno-gu were bustling with so many people that there were no empty spots.

At the same time, Mangwon Market in Mapo-gu was also crowded with more people than usual. Here, long lines formed in front of shops selling large-sized tteokgalbi (grilled short rib patties) and hotteok, and customers continuously came and went at a butcher shop selling imported beef ribs. Housewife Lee, carrying a shopping basket full of tteokgalbi, said, "Since the large supermarkets are closed today, I came to the market, and compared to two weeks ago, there seem to be three to four times more people." She added, "Instead of preparing something extravagant for the holiday, I plan to buy a little bit of everything that the kids like."

At Namguro Market in Guro-gu, people carrying goods in both hands were overflowing. Merchants called out loudly through their masks, saying, "What can I get for you?" and "Please take some green onions." Kim, who runs a fruit and vegetable shop, said, "There were really no customers for the past two years, but now that it's busy again, it feels good to do business." He added, "I hope it stays like this today."

Housewife Park said, "I thought the market would be quiet because of COVID-19, but I was surprised to see more people than usual." She added, "After comparing prices of fruits and eggs, it's definitely cheaper than supermarkets, so I'm glad I came to shop at the market."

However, even within the same markets, stores selling daily necessities or clothing, excluding food, were quiet without customers, creating a contrast. Many smaller alley-type traditional markets chose to close for the day.

A merchant running a general goods store in Gwangjang Market said, "Who would buy hanbok for kids or eat yakgwa (traditional Korean sweets) just because it's a holiday these days?" He added bitterly, "At least the restaurants are doing well, so it's less bleak than when no one was coming."

A fruit and vegetable shop owner in Yongsan-gu’s Yongmun Market said, "Only the fish cake shop featured on broadcasts and the delivery jokbal (pig’s trotters) shop are doing well here, and more than half of the other shops are closed because it's Sunday." He lamented, "We're tired of using COVID-19 as an excuse, but since customers don't come, merchants don't bring many goods, prices keep rising, and this vicious cycle continues with fewer customers."