[Jo Yongjun's Journey Manli] The Roar of Baekdudaegan Awakens the Choshin

New Year's Journey to Taebaek - A Ball of Hope Rises: Sunrise Spectacle at Taebaeksan and Hambaksan

Breaking through the overlapping Baekdudaegan mountain range, the hopeful New Year of the Year of the Black Tiger has dawned. Hambaeksan (1,573m), meaning "greatly bright," is the sixth highest mountain south of the Korean Peninsula, but since there is a road up to the 70% ridge, you can start hiking a bit more comfortably.

Hambaeksan Mountain Hiking

Hikers climbing Taebaeksan, the sacred mountain of the nation

Taebaeksan Cheonjedan

Cheoram Coal Mine Historical Village

Geomryongso, the source of the Han River

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun] The year 2022, the Year of the Black Tiger (Im In Year, 壬寅年), has dawned. It is also called the 'Year of the Black Tiger.' We hope it will be a year full of the tiger's energy, but reality is not easy. The Omicron variant virus is striking the world, and social distancing continues to be endlessly extended. The pandemic, which has made travel almost impossible, continues into the new year. In this era of travel deprivation caused by COVID-19, we intend to start the year by reconsidering new ways of traveling and re-examining the value of travel. We hope that in the Im In year, we can finally take off the tiresome masks. And that we can comfortably start traveling again. For the first journey of the new year, we chose Taebaek in Gangwon Province. The majestic sunrise of Taebaeksan (1,567m), known as the 'Sacred Mountain of the Nation,' and Hambaksan (1,573m), meaning 'great brightness,' will be a spark of hope for lives that have been withdrawn and difficult. And that's not all. There is Geomryongso, where the long flow of the Han River begins, Hwangji Pond, the source of the Nakdong River, the lifeline of Yeongnam, and Maebongsan Wind Hill ? there is no better place to start the new year’s first trip.

First, we head to Taebaeksan. Taebaeksan (1,567m) is the sacred mountain of the nation, home to the Dangun Shrine and Cheonjedan, an altar for sky worship. It has long been regarded as one of South Korea's representative famous mountains alongside Hallasan and Jirisan.

There are several trails, such as from Dangol Square or the entrance of Yuilsa Temple, but the Yuilsa side is less strenuous and shorter. The course from Yuilsa ticket office through Janggunbong-Cheonjedan-Manggyungsa-Dangol Square takes about 5 hours.

Braving the biting wind, near the summit, Taebaeksan’s 'Jumok' (Taxus cuspidata) trees stand in rows. Known for their strong vitality, these trees are said to live for a thousand years alive and a thousand years dead. As their name suggests, their trunks and branches are reddish, symbolizing their resilience.

Crossing the Baekdudaegan ridge, a red energy rises. The fireball emitted by nature writhes and wraps around the whole body. The mountains layered below and those standing at the summit hold their breath. It feels as if standing on a passage where heaven and earth communicate.

The sunrise at Taebaeksan varies depending on the weather. When clouds gather below, the sun breaking through the sea of clouds is magnificent. On clear days, the sun rises among the bold mountain ranges of Taebaek City, Samcheok City, and Uljin County in Gyeongbuk. Especially notable is the snowy scenery around the main peak Janggunbong, where snow-covered jumok clusters and azaleas blend beautifully.

Hambaksan is right in front, and beyond Maebongsan, the ridges of Dutasan and Cheongoksan stretch vigorously. However, staying long at the summit is not allowed by the biting wind. During the 30 minutes spent watching the sunrise, fingertips and toes froze to the point of numbness.

Passing the Danjong Monument Pavilion below Cheonjedan, you reach Manggyungsa Temple. The temple has a well called Yongjeong (Dragon Well), known as the highest spring in Korea. It rarely dries up and is used for ritual water during the Cheonje ceremony. People who drink a sip of the water and descend seem to shed all worries and walk lightly, as if filled with abundant energy.

Taebaeksan sunrise is perfect for remembering your first heart, but if you cannot bear the three-hour early morning mountain climb, head to nearby Hambaksan.

Hambaksan is a mountain that rises sharply near Taebaek, where the Baekdudaegan range, extending from Seoraksan, Odaesan, and Daegwallyeong, descends southward. Although it is higher than Taebaeksan, a road connects up to about 70% of the mountain, allowing you to reach the summit in about an hour.

The road to Hambaksan starts from the entrance of O2 Resort, passing the Korea Sports Council Taebaek Training Center, and continues for 3 km to Hambaksan Samgeori (three-way intersection). This road, hovering around 1,000 meters above sea level, is a fantastic driving course where the majestic snowy mountains below transform into ink-wash paintings stretching toward the East Sea. If climbing the mountain is difficult, the sunrise here is also fantastic.

Before reaching Manhangjae Pass (1,330m), the highest pass accessible by car, there is a trailhead. A paved road just wide enough for one car leads along the ridge. It is the road leading to the wireless base station just below Hambaksan’s summit.

You can walk along the road or enter the forest trail. This path connects to the main Baekdudaegan ridge. Walking the Baekdudaegan ridge has many charms. Far away, white wind turbines can be seen on the mountain slopes. These are windmills installed on the Baekdudaegan ridge near Samsuryeong, where the Osipcheon River flows into the East Sea, West Sea, and South Sea.

Climbing a steep slope covered entirely with snow, the road reappears, and soon you reach Hambaksan’s summit. Surrounded by mostly 1,400m high peaks such as Taebaeksan to the south, Geumdaebong and Maebongsan to the north, and Baegunsan, Duwibong, and Jangsan to the west, you can fully enjoy the grandeur of the Baekdudaegan. The sun rises on the ridge. It is a magnificent and powerful East Sea sun that rivals the sunrise at Taebaeksan.

For those confident in winter hiking, the Hambaksan traverse course is worth challenging. Starting from Dumundongjae, passing Eundaebong, Hambaksan, and ending at Manhangjae, it is a Baekdudaegan snow flower trekking route. The gentle slopes and abundance of jumok trees make it one of the best trekking courses.

If you visit Taebaek in the new year, you cannot miss Geomryongso, where the Han River begins its 1,300-ri winding flow. The waterway beside the road is frozen solid. Looking up, the sound of wind passing through the winter forest hums, and listening under the ice, the sound of flowing water follows.

The surface of Geomryongso, filled with clear water, is calm, but water rushes down below. The water that springs here flows under the frozen valley ice and travels through plains and mountains such as Jeongseon, Yeongwol, Chungju, Yangpyeong, and Gimpo, joining other streams to become the Han River. It is a great river stretching 514 km.

The water springing from Geomryongso, known to have formed during the Cretaceous period about 150 million years ago, amounts to 2,000 tons per day. However, the actual springing water cannot be seen with the naked eye. Only the overflowing water forming a waterfall allows one to sense how much water is springing.

The water temperature of Geomryongso remains at an average of 9 degrees Celsius regardless of the season. Ice cracks on the rocks splashed by water, but no thin ice forms on the waterway itself. Visiting Geomryongso in the new year is thus a way to meet your 'first heart.'

Taebaek = Text & Photos by Jo Yong-jun, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there=From Yeongdong Expressway, exit at Jecheon Interchange on the Jungang Expressway and take National Route 38 toward Yeongwol. Passing through the Dumundongjae Tunnel connecting Jeongseon and Taebaek leads to Taebaek City.

△Attractions=Maebongsan Wind Power Plant, Cabbage Fields, Samsuryeong, Yongyeon Cave, Gumunso, Coal Museum, Yesuwon, Cheoram Coal Mine Historical Village, and more.

△Food=Taebaek’s specialty is Hanwoo beef and chicken galbi with broth. The taste of high-quality Hanwoo raw meat (photo) grilled over charcoal is exquisite. The chicken galbi is cooked by boiling sweet potatoes, rice cakes, and shepherd’s purse with broth, making it low in fat and light in flavor.