[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Wanju Mangyeonggang Ecological Trail, Late Autumn Sunset Stroll

Ecological Journey Along Wanju Mangyeong River - Walking the Wide Fields and Red Waters, Wanju Mangyeong River Trail

Mankyung River, known as the lifeline of Jeonbuk, serves as a sanctuary for numerous flora and fauna, sustaining a vibrant ecosystem. An ecological trail has been established along this river. The total length is 44 km, divided into 7 courses, and the sunset is setting at Mankyung River Railroad Bridge, the endpoint of Course 6.

Silver Silvergrass in Mangyeonggang Wetland

Daee Reservoir, a popular driving destination

Late Autumn at Hwaamsa Temple

Cheonho Seongji

Autumn at Dae Reservoir

Daedunsan

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun]Man-gyeong River is the lifeline of Jeollabuk-do, crossing the Honam Plain. It originates in Dongsang-myeon, Wanju-gun, flowing through Jeonju, Iksan, Gimje, and Gunsan before emptying into the West Sea. The abundant waters irrigate the fields, nurturing crops and serving as a sanctuary for countless flora and fauna. In late autumn, the yellow-billed spoonbill (a natural monument) visits to spend the winter. Recently, a walking trail along the Man-gyeong River with a healthy ecosystem has been established in Wanju. It is called the 'Wanju Man-gyeong River Trail,' connecting existing mountain paths, village roads, embankments, and bicycle paths. The trail stretches about 44 km from Bamsaem in Dongsang-myeon, the river's source, to Haejeon Village in Samnye-eup, divided into seven courses. When walking the mountain paths, you temporarily move away from the river, but upon reaching the embankment and bicycle paths, you walk alongside the river, so there is no chance to feel bored or dull. You can see mallards and swans (natural monuments), pass through the ecological treasure Shinchon Wetlands, and enjoy the red sunset at dusk.

About 60% of the entire Man-gyeong River section lies within Wanju. Course 1, Bamsaem-gil (round trip 4.6 km), connects Bamtimaeul and Bamsaem in Dongsang-myeon. It is convenient to start at the Dream Tree Experience Observation Learning Center in Bamtimaeul. Parking is available, and course information can be obtained there. Walking along village and mountain paths for 30 to 40 minutes leads to Bamsaem. It is fascinating how such a small spring forms a thin stream, meets tributaries, and gradually grows into a massive river.

Returning to the Dream Tree Experience Observation Learning Center, you head toward Geoin Village, crossing unpaved roads, village roads, and mountain paths. This is Course 2, Gubit-gil (8.3 km). During the approximately 2 hours and 20 minutes walk, you encounter warm nature and village scenery. The stream that started at Bamsaem gathers into Dongsang Reservoir and Dae-a Reservoir after passing Geoin Village. Since only car roads surround the reservoirs, the course restarts at Gosan-myeon.

Course 3, Changpo-gil (5.9 km), starts from Changpo Village, where a colony of iris flowers grows, and reaches Sesimjeong in about 1 hour and 40 minutes. Sesimjeong is a pavilion from the Joseon Dynasty, meaning 'always wash your heart clean.' Descending the stairs, you can see Sesimbo, a weir crossing the river. It is said that village children bathed here in the 1970s and 1980s. Course 4, Sesimjeong-gil (8.1 km), continues from Sesimjeong to Sangjanggi Park in Bongdong-eup.

Walking all seven courses is not easy. If choosing one or two courses, Courses 5 and 6 are recommended: Saenggang-gil (7.2 km) and Shinchon Wetlands-gil (5.5 km). Course 5 covers Sangjanggi Park - Bongdong Bridge - Hoepodae Bridge, and Course 6 covers Hoepodae Bridge - Hari Bridge - Samnye Bridge - Bibijeong section. Walking both courses consecutively takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes. The embankment from Sangjanggi Park to Bongdong Bridge is car-free. One side is lined with zelkova trees, the other with cherry trees, especially beautiful in spring but pleasant even now. After Bongdong Bridge, many cars use the embankment, so it is better to use the bicycle path.

The 2 km section from Hoepodae Bridge to Hari Bridge is the Shinchon Wetlands, called the 'lungs of the Man-gyeong River.' Hoepodae Bridge is where Gosancheon and Soyangcheon converge. The river is wide, and slow water flow causes sediment to accumulate, forming small island-like landforms here and there, fostering diverse vegetation. Endangered wild species such as the oriental stork, leopard cat, and yellow-billed spoonbill are also visible. In 2017, Shinchon Wetlands received the Korea Environmental Journalists Club Award in the citizen contest 'Let's Protect This Place' organized by the Korea National Trust.

Bibijeong is a scenic spot overlooking the Man-gyeong River and the old Man-gyeong River railway bridge (a registered national cultural heritage). The Man-gyeong River railway bridge, built during the Japanese colonial period to export rice, ceased operation in 2011 when the Jeolla Line was double-tracked. The bridge was remodeled into the Bibijeong Art Train, a restaurant, gallery, and cafe. It is a great place to enjoy the sunset glow. Course 7, Bibijeong-gil (round trip 4.5 km), continues from here to Haejeon Village. If walking Courses 5 and 6 consecutively, it is easier to start from Samnye, which has better transportation, and walk backward.

At the center of activities to protect and preserve the Man-gyeong River is the Man-gyeong River Love Keepers. This local community voluntarily formed after completing the one-year 'Man-gyeong River Ecology Academy' hosted by Wanju-gun in 2017. They regularly monitor the Man-gyeong River and Shinchon Wetlands, organize cleaning, education, and migratory bird watching trips. In the first half of 2021, they conducted 'Sseudam Walking,' picking up trash along the Man-gyeong River while walking.

The waterfront road connecting Dae-a Reservoir and Dongsang Reservoir is a famous driving course. Driving while admiring the splendid late autumn foliage is a perfect healing experience. The early morning mist rising over the water is also dreamy. Dae-a Reservoir, created by a dam built during the Japanese colonial period, is surrounded by the rugged cliffs of Unamsan and the elegant, gentle Dongsungsan, making it beautiful all year round. It connects to the southern Dongsang Reservoir. Nearby are Dae-a Arboretum, Wibong Fortress, and Wibongsa Temple.

Wibong Fortress in Wanju (Historic Site) is a large-scale stone fortress built in the 17th century. It has a circumference of about 8.6 km and a height of 1.8 to 2.6 meters. It became famous after BTS filmed their '2019 Summer Package in Korea' video there. While fortresses are usually military facilities for war preparedness, Wibong Fortress also aimed to protect the royal portrait and memorial tablets of King Taejo Lee Seong-gye enshrined in Jeonju Gyeonggijeon in emergencies. During the Donghak Peasant Revolution, the royal portrait and tablets were reportedly moved to the Wibongsa temple hall inside the fortress.

Gosan Miso Market in Gosan-myeon, which Courses 3 and 4 of the Wanju Man-gyeong River Trail pass through, is also interesting. In 2013, it was reborn as a cultural tourism-themed market along with the traditional oil market. Veteran merchants with decades of experience and young merchants run it together. About 30 stores include a bookstore selling handmade products, a food workshop sharing handmade snacks and syrups, a cafe famous for cookies and donuts, a curated store exhibiting and selling local community products, a Korean beef sales shop, and a craft experience center. On the last Saturday of each month, performances, movie screenings, and flea markets are held.

Wanju = Text and photos by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = Exit Samnye IC on the Honam Expressway, head toward Wanggung and Samnye, pass the Samnye IC intersection toward Samnye Cultural Arts Village, Woosuk University, and Samnye, then take Chunghon-gil to Bibijeong (the terminus of Wanju Man-gyeong River Trail Course 6).

△ Attractions = Oseong Hanok Village, famous as a BTS music video filming location, Dae-a Arboretum, Sangkwan Gonggi Village Cypress Forest, Mountain Lighthouse, Dae-a Reservoir, Samnye Cultural Arts Village, Daedunsan Mountain, Cheonho Holy Ground, and Hwaamsa Temple, among others.