[Michelin Muk-eobollang] The Life-Changing Gukbap Restaurant Found in the Heart of Seoul

Clear and Refreshing Dwaejigukbap? A Visit to Gwanghwamun Gukbap

Editor's NoteIf you are interested in food, you have probably heard of the bestseller "Michelin Guide." According to the official website, it provides useful information for those seeking unforgettable experiences. So, the Drinkit editors took on the challenge to see if these Michelin Guide restaurants can offer impressive flavors even to us, the very ordinary and popular crowd. Michelin Guide restaurants, here we come!

The cold wind naturally makes you curl up your body. It is also a time when you keep wondering what kind of coat to wear. On such days, a warm bowl of gukbap (soup with rice) comes to mind. The steaming hot gukbap broth warms my body as it passes down the esophagus into the stomach.

Yes, the season for gukbap has arrived. But guess what? Even pork gukbap is listed in the Michelin Guide. The star here is "Gwanghwamun Gukbap," run by Chef Park Chan-il. Located in the heart of Seoul, Gwanghwamun Gukbap was our destination. To try various dishes, we ordered the basic pork gukbap, blood sausage (pisundae), and boiled pork slices (suyuk). Squid jeotgal (fermented squid), kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi), garlic, and chili peppers were served as basic side dishes. The squid jeotgal and kkakdugi were not spicy but rather slightly sweet in flavor.

The neatly arranged 20 pieces of pisundae came out first. Pisundae is mainly made by mixing meat, tofu, eggs, and blood. If not done well, it can be fishy or tasteless. However, Gwanghwamun Gukbap’s pisundae had a perfectly chewy texture, fully stuffed filling, and no fishy taste?nothing to complain about. Dipping the sausage lightly in salt and eating piece by piece, the plate was soon empty. I want more...!

Then, the suyuk and gukbap appeared almost simultaneously. The boiled pork slices, made from pork belly and front leg meat, were served cold. Although cold, they were neither tough nor overly greasy, which was pleasant. Personally, I recommend eating the pork belly part first, which has both fat and lean meat. Put some salted shrimp on the suyuk, add a piece of garlic and chili dipped in ssamjang (fermented soybean paste), and enjoy.

Both pisundae and boiled pork slices showed satisfying flavors. However, since I did not feel a big difference between the meat in the pork gukbap and the boiled pork slices, if I revisit, I think I would only eat the pisundae.

The charm of clear pork gukbap is...

Now, the star of the day: the steaming hot pork gukbap. The gukbap is already seasoned with the right amount of salt, so there are signs around the restaurant advising to taste the broth first and then add a little salted shrimp according to preference. It is said that the deep flavor comes only from the lean meat of Jeju black pork. Fluffy rice is served separately.

Do you usually add dadegi (minced seasoning) to your gukbap? It is recommended not to add dadegi to Gwanghwamun Gukbap’s soup. Although it may vary by person, I felt it lacked the spicy umami that dadegi usually adds. The clear broth with a slight spiciness from chili powder seemed to interfere with the clean taste of the broth. The editor seasoned it only with salted shrimp.

Unlike the previously tasted Pyongyang naengmyeon, the evaluation of Gwanghwamun Gukbap was generally consistent. "The clean yet umami-rich broth is impressive," was the consensus. The broth is not milky white but clear and transparent, similar to seolleongtang or clear beef bone soup. It feels somewhat unfamiliar but maintains a good balance?not too heavy nor too light. Also, the tender texture of the pork meat inside the gukbap was pleasing.

One colleague who joined the gukbap gathering said they usually do not enjoy pork gukbap because of its distinctive fishy smell. However, this colleague was also captivated by the clean broth here. They even mentioned wanting to buy the meal kit sold at Gwanghwamun Gukbap.

As an editor who usually enjoys Busan-style pork gukbap with various offal and innards, Gwanghwamun Gukbap felt somewhat like a thin soup, but the taste itself was not lacking. It may feel unfamiliar since it is not the thick type that comes to mind when thinking of "pork gukbap," but without the typical pork odor, it was easy to eat without burden.

Visiting during lunchtime may require waiting, but due to the nature of the menu, turnover is relatively fast. The price for a bowl of pork gukbap is 8,500 won. The Michelin Bib Gourmand recognizes it as a "restaurant offering excellent food at reasonable prices." Considering the average prices of nearby restaurants, it boasts very satisfactory price and taste. Somehow, I feel I will visit again before this winter ends.

▷ Check out Michelin Eat-All Part 1, “Pyongyang Naengmyeon” Review

Photos by Kim Tae-in, Choi Ji-hyun