[Jo Yongjun's Journey] Under the Bridge of Self-Cultivation of Desirelessness, Each Stone Piled as a Tower of Hope

The Road to Baekdamsa in Inje - Finding Han Yongun's 'Silence of the Beloved' and Climbing Guguryangjang to a Peacefully Situated Temple

The numerous stone pagodas lined up along the valley beneath Susimgyo Bridge at Baekdamsa Temple are stone pagodas that contain the joys, sorrows, resentments, and worries of those who visit this place. After the summer monsoon sweeps through, they are rebuilt again by the next summer.

Susuimgyo Bridge in Sanmun

Statue of Manhae Han Yong-un

A monk striking the Beopgo drum at Beomjongru Pavilion

Baekdam Valley

Baekdamsa

Baekdam Village located on the way to Baekdamsa Temple

[Asia Economy Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yong-jun]'Dudung~dungdungdung~dudu~dungdungdung~' Naeseorak echoes and the forest vibrates. The valley's water flows dance, and the monk's hand movements stir the soul. The sound of the temple bell and wooden drum at Baekdamsa’s Beomjongru immerses you like a movie. Visitors who were wandering around the temple gradually gather, and the drumbeats penetrate Naeseorak more grandly and beautifully. The temple bell responds with a clear (淸雅) yet profound sound. Like offering comfort to those weary in body and mind from COVID-19, the wooden drum and bell continuously exchange beautiful sounds. Numerous stone pagodas line the valley leading to the temple, creating a unique landscape. They are the landmark of Baekdamsa. These stone pagodas, built with the wishes of many, are swept away by the summer floods but are rebuilt again, continuing endlessly. The path to Baekdamsa curves once and then again, revealing a completely different inner beauty of Naeseorak. The water is so clear and deep that it has a greenish hue. Just gazing at the water’s color is beautiful enough to erase all worries. Baekdamsa is famous as the place where 'Manhae Han Yong-un' wrote 'The Silence of the Beloved.' This week’s travel journey is a path to Baekdamsa, a journey to receive comfort for the heart.

Baekdam Village in Yongdae-ri, Inje-gun, is located in a deep valley of western Naeseorak, centered around Daecheongbong Peak (1708m) of Seoraksan Mountain, between Hangyeryeong and Misiryeong. Along the valley, winds from the East Sea meet winds blowing from the west, and water flows gather beneath Daecheongbong. In this deep mountain area, along the clear waterway, stands Baekdamsa. Situated in a remote part of Naeseorak, it was once a place of practice rarely visited by people.

You can reach Baekdamsa by walking or by bus. It is about 7 km from the village parking lot to Baekdamsa. Although walking the mountain path may feel burdensome, walking slowly allows you to shed all worldly dust and feel one with nature.

Usually, on weekends, it was difficult to tour the temple due to crowds. You had to wait hours to catch a bus, but with fewer travelers due to COVID-19, you can now use the bus more comfortably to visit the temple.

Whether by bus or on foot, the road to Baekdamsa unfolds truly spectacular scenery. Climbing the precarious mountain path along the valley, the road soon twists and turns like a winding ribbon. The clean water, home to fish like the Korean dark sleeper (Eoreumchi) and the Korean trout (Yeolmokeo), is so deep it appears green. Looking down at the narrow, precarious road from inside the bus makes your legs tingle.

After about 15 minutes by bus or 2 hours on foot, upon arriving at the entrance to Baekdamsa, the first thing that catches your eye is a unique sight: countless stone pagodas lined up in the valley beneath Susimgyo (Bridge of Cultivating the Mind). These stone pagodas were built by visitors to Baekdamsa or Seoraksan Mountain, each carrying their wishes. After last summer’s flood swept through, joys and sorrows, resentments and worries of life are all piled up again until the next summer. When others build so many stone pagodas, there must be a reason. Quietly joining the ranks of the pagodas, placing a small stone on top, I think about what I earnestly wish for.

The water, swollen from last week’s rain, flows powerfully, and the ridges of Seorak hold white clouds in every valley. The stone pagodas, the valley, and the ridges of Seorak blend to create a fantastic landscape. That scenery alone was enough. I even thought I might not need to enter Baekdamsa. But you can’t just turn back. Crossing Susimgyo, I enter the temple gate. The temple gate symbolizes separation from the secular world. In that sense, Baekdamsa is a completely isolated and secluded space.

Passing Susimgyo, the temple courtyard feels peaceful. It is amazing that such a spacious and cozy site was chosen for a temple in the midst of layered mountains.

According to the 'Baekdamsa Historical Records,' in 647 AD, Jajang (慈藏) founded the temple in Hangye-ri of Seoraksan and named it Hangyesa (寒溪寺). Later, it was called Bigeumsa (琵琴寺), Unheungsa (雲興寺), Seongusa (旋龜寺), Yeongchuksa (靈鷲寺), and in 1783, it was renamed Baekdamsa, which has been used since.

In modern times, Baekdamsa was associated with the monk 'Manhae Han Yong-un.' He stayed here and wrote several books, making this place known as the hometown of Manhae’s philosophy. There is a 'Manhae Memorial Hall' on the temple grounds where you can see his footprints at a glance. It clearly exhibits his ordination and practice, the March 1st Movement and prison struggles, enlightenment activities, and literary works.

Also on display are his calligraphy works and the first edition and various versions of his poetry collection 'The Silence of the Beloved.' However, the decisive moment when Baekdamsa became widely known was when a former president stayed here. During the stay of Jeon Du-hwan and his wife, the media spotlight was intense.

At the tea house on the temple grounds, I take a moment to enjoy a cup of tea. Since it’s tea served at a temple, it somehow feels like it carries special care. After lingering leisurely for a while, I bought a tea cup coaster and left.

A tree in the middle of the courtyard catches my eye. It has a nameplate saying 'Yagwang Tree' (Luminous Tree). Young shoots sprout from the branches of the large tree losing its light, shining like they are lighting a fire, and its appearance is radiant.

Following the hiking trail from Baekdamsa, there is a path where Han Yong-un is said to have attained enlightenment. You can also visit Oseam, where a five-year-old prodigy called upon Avalokitesvara and attained enlightenment, leading to the temple’s name change, and Bongjeongam, one of Korea’s five major Jeokmyeolbogung (Buddhist shrines of Nirvana).

Bongjeongam is named because a phoenix disappeared into the Buddha’s forehead. It is a subsidiary hermitage of Baekdamsa located at Madeungnyeong, the highest point (1,224m) in Naeseorak.

On the way back, a monk climbs Beomjongru. The powerful drumbeats echo through Naeseorak as if to announce that today was endured well, overcome well, and lived well.

Inje = Text and photos by Travel Specialist Jo Yong-jun jun21@

◇Travel Notes

△Getting there=From the metropolitan area, take the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, exit at Donghongcheon IC, then take National Road 44 passing Inje towards Misiryeong, and you will reach Yongdae-ri. You can park at Baekdamsa parking lot and take a village bus. Adult one-way fare is 2,500 KRW.

△Attractions=Naerincheon River, Bangdong Mineral Spring, Daemamsan Yongneup (Dragon Marsh), Wondaeri Birch Forest, Sibiseonnyeontang (Twelve-Year Hot Spring), Gombaeryeong, Park In-hwan Literature Museum, Manhae Village, and many more attractions.