[Joyongjun's Travel Journey] Blood-Red Dawn, Tricolor Harmony: A Watercolor Painted on Mountains, Forests, and Sea

Healing Journey to Jangheung, Jeonnam in Late Summer

The pond named 'Songbaekjeong (松百井)', meaning a pond (井) with pine trees (松) and crape myrtles (百), is beautifully colorful as if painted with a watercolor palette.

Morning on Sodeung Island, where director Im Kwon-taek's film 'Chukje' was shot

Mallegil Trail in the Cypress Forest Woodland

Donghojeong

Around the Goyoungwan House, about 100 crape myrtle trees are planted.

Tamnin River's Stone Bridge

Jangheung's delicacies: Jangheung Samhap, Saltwater Eel Shabu-Shabu, Doenjang Mulhoe (from left)

The Charming Path to the Goyoungwan House

[Asia Economy, Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] Is there any place like this in the southern provinces? We are talking about Jangheung, Jeollanam-do. If you draw a straight line south from the heart of Gwanghwamun, Seoul, you reach the southernmost tip of the land where it meets the sea?that's Jangheung. It is called Jeongnamjin because it lies directly south. Mountains stand like folding screens everywhere you go, and clear water overflows in the valleys. It has everything from a sea that stirs your emotions, to charming little islands, and well-known healing forests. Moreover, it is a cradle of literature that has produced numerous writers including Han Seung-won and Lee Cheong-jun. How about the taste? From Jangheung Samhap that surely captures your appetite to gatjangeo (conger eel) shabu-shabu, delicacies abound everywhere. Although the beginning of autumn has passed, if you dream of a late vacation or want to recharge your body and mind tired from COVID-19, I recommend Jangheung. This article captures a day in Jangheung, where trending healing as well as special tastes and charms await.

AM 5:40 - Standing on Sodeungseom Island to Witness the Bloody Sunrise Spectacle

Departed from accommodation in Jangheung-eup at 5 a.m. Heading toward Deukryang Bay. The sea in front of Daeri, Hoejin-myeon at the entrance of Deukryang Bay is a clean sea area. It is home to Korea's first marine fishing park where you can experience the thrilling catch of black porgy all year round. You can fish while enjoying the beautiful scenery of the Dadohae (archipelago) including Sorokdo Island. However, the reason for setting out at dawn is different. Heading to Nampo Village located inside Deukryang Bay. This typical fishing village was the filming location for director Im Kwon-taek's movie "Festival." Right in front of the village is Sodeungseom Island. Although the island is small enough to walk around in a few steps, the view from the village is charming.

The island was named Sodeungseom because when the village men went fishing far out at sea, the women lit lanterns (small lights) on the rocks of Sodeungseom to pray for their safe return.

At low tide, the island connects to the land along a curved path like a bow, and at high tide, the path disappears underwater. In the middle of the island stands a statue representing the women's wishes, and a few pine trees grow stubbornly through the rocks, continuing their resilient life. The true charm of Sodeungseom can only be appreciated at sunrise.

Between Sodeungseom and Nampo Village, the sky begins to be painted in colorful hues. The sky changes from deep navy blue to orange and then to red moment by moment. The beach and the small path to Sodeungseom, dyed entirely in blood-red, are submerged in water. Those who have witnessed this scene once will keep an unforgettable memory. Photos taken here can instantly attract attention as SNS certification shots. In winter, Nampo Village is famous for grilling oysters freshly harvested from the sea right in front of the village.

AM 10:00 - Climbing Sajasan and Eokbulsan to Embrace the Dadohae

Jangheung has harbors, sea, and islands, but it also embraces mountains representing Honam. The most well-known is Cheongwansan (723m), one of the five famous mountains of Honam along with Jirisan, Naejangsan, Wolchulsan, and Naebyeonsan. Cheongwansan is beautiful with its many bizarre rock formations. From the summit, you can see the Namhae archipelago at a glance, and on clear days, even Hallasan can be seen far away. However, this time the destination is not Cheongwansan but Sajasan (666m) and Eokbulsan (518m). Sajasan is named because it resembles a giant lion lying down with its head raised. Eokbulsan is famous for its abundance of cypress trees.

After watching the sunrise at Sodeungseom, we head to Sajasan. The peak near Jangheung-eup looks like a lion's head, so it is called Sajadubong (lion's head peak), and the summit is called Sajamibong (lion's tail peak) along with Namneung. It faces Jeamsan across Gomjae and has a ridge extending 400m east to west.

An official from Jangheung County who accompanied us said, "All the mountains surrounding Jangheung are beautiful, but Sajasan is perfect for the harmony of mountain and sea."

There are several hiking courses, but the popular one connects Jeamsan and Gomjae. If the starting point is the public park cemetery parking lot, you follow the Jeamsan forest road, then at Ganjae, turn right to the tail of Sajasan and the paragliding launch site, reaching the two peaks of Sajasan (head).

Although the beginning of autumn has passed, the midday sun is harsh. However, the path to Sajasan is deep and cool. The sunlight filtered through the leaves is gentle, and under the shaded trees, it is refreshing.

Before reaching the summit, Cheongwansan stands proudly in front, and Jeamsan supports from behind. Far away, the islands of the Dadohae enter the heart. Sorokdo floats in the wide Deukryang Bay as if within reach.

Standing at the top of Sajasan, Jangheung-eup and the Tamjin River lie embraced in the vast plain. On clear days, Gwangju's Mudeungsan, Yeongam's Wolchulsan, and Haenam's Duryunsan seem close enough to touch.

Eokbulsan has many bizarre rocks along the main ridge. The shape of the rocks resembles a standing Buddha, hence the name Eokbulsan. The trail to the summit has wooden decks installed, making it easy to climb. The vast cypress and bamboo forests are great for forest bathing and walking. The cypress trees are known as the species that emit the most phytoncides and negative ions, beneficial for health.

The cypress forest called 'Jeongnamjin Cypress Forest Woodland' has facilities such as log houses, loess houses, and traditional Korean houses where you can experience health activities in the forest.

PM 16:00 - Colorful Flowers Bloom at Songbaekjeong Pond

If you visit Eokbulsan, you should also go to 'Sangseon Yaksu Village' in Pyeonghwa-ri, the lower village. The most enchanting spot in Pyeonghwa-ri is the pond surrounded by old pine and crape myrtle trees. It is named 'Songbaekjeong (松百井)' because it has pine (松), crape myrtle (百), and pond (井). The pond was created by the great-grandfather of Go Young-wan, an independence activist and former member of the National Assembly. Over 50 crape myrtle trees over 100 years old proudly display their splendid appearance. The red crape myrtle stands out even more under the sunlight. Watching the crape myrtle and summer flowers reflected in the pond creates a splendid watercolor-like scene.

At the end of the short forest path right next to the pond is the Go Young-wan house. From the entrance, a huge old tree spreads its trunk under the fence. Around the curved stone stairs, moss and ferns sparkle with moistness. Next to the stone stairs, a tree with a thick base protrudes toward the path, and another tree climbs over it, touching each other. On one side, a bamboo grove covers the sky. The low sound of wind and birdsong continues endlessly. It is truly a refreshing and invigorating scene.

PM 19:00 - Jangheung Samhap, Korean Beef, Shiitake, and Pen Shell Meet for Juicy Explosion

They say even Mount Geumgang is best enjoyed after a meal, and after wandering around Jangheung's attractions all day, I finally met Jangheung's specialty: 'Jangheung Samhap.' Samhap (三合) means three things that go well together. In Jangheung, it refers to Korean beef, pen shell scallops, and shiitake mushrooms.

Place the meat on the grill. Broth gathers around the edges. Add lightly grilled pen shell scallops and shiitake mushrooms. Put a large scallop topped with meat and shiitake in one bite. The savory meat, chewy scallop, and rich shiitake juice blend together, bursting with juice all at once.

The chewy yet fresh taste of pen shell acts as a flavor enhancer to what could otherwise be a heavy taste. Thus, the harmony of these somewhat unfamiliar three ingredients is a fantastic combination.

Depending on personal taste, dipping in soy sauce mixed with mustard or salt sauce enhances the soft and mild flavor. Since the ingredients are fresh, grilling them lightly without overcooking fills the mouth with gentle yet ample flavor.

Also, 'gatjangeo shabu-shabu,' where conger eel is blanched in soybean paste broth, is a summer delicacy in Jangheung. Conger eel living in mudflats is rich in protein, minerals, and vitamin A, making it one of the best health foods.

Jangheung locals mainly call conger eel 'Hamo,' and it is eaten from May to October, with this period being the tastiest and in season.

There is also soybean paste mulhoe (cold raw fish soup) that completely wipes away summer heat. It is entirely different from mulhoe made with spicy vinegar sauce. When you try it, you wonder what kind of taste this is. It is made by mixing the flesh of rockfish, sea bream, and other fish slightly cooked with young radish kimchi and soybean paste, along with onion, green chili, garlic, and aged vinegar. Each restaurant has slight variations, but the broth tastes great when eaten with noodles or poured over warm rice.

Jangheung = Written and photographed by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From Seoul or the metropolitan area, take the Gyeongbu Expressway → Cheonan-Nonsan Expressway → Honam Expressway → Suncheon-Wanju Expressway → Yeongam-Suncheon Expressway → Jangheung Interchange. It takes about 4 hours 30 minutes to 5 hours. If using KTX, get off at Gwangju Songjeong Station or Naju Station and rent a car.