[Jo Yongjun's Journey] The Path into the Painting, Toegye's Words Are Truly True

Journey on Bonghwa National Route 35 to One of Gyeongbuk's Top 3 Remote Areas

A picturesque landscape encountered on National Route 35. The Nakdong River winds sharply below a sheer cliff, and a winding road stretches alongside it. On days when mist rises, it feels like a scene from a fairyland.

Unmanned cafe 'Orange Blossom Scent Blown by the Wind' located halfway up Manlisan Mountain, view of Cheongnyangsan from the large window

Wildflowers Encountered at Cheongnyangsan Mountain

Spring has settled abundantly on the winding road leading into the remote village.

35 National Road viewed from Mallisan Mountain

[Asia Economy, Reporter Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist] We head to Bonghwa, known as one of the three most remote areas in Gyeongbuk along the Nakdong River. The term "remote area" refers to deep mountainous inland regions. In other words, it is a place living at the pace of nature, away from the speed of time. The journey follows National Route 35, which goes from Andong and Bonghwa to Taebaek. The Bonghwa section preserves raw nature with ridges overlapping beyond ridges. As you travel, only mountain birds chatter, and the sound of the Nakdong River flowing continuously accompanies you. Toegye Yi Hwang, who traveled between Dosan Seowon in Andong and Cheongnyangsan in Bonghwa, called this road "a path into a painting." The mountains are deep, and the road is rough, but it holds an untouchable beautiful landscape. As you drive and the altitude gradually rises around each bend, you can feel that you have already entered the painting. Is that all? The world-renowned travel guide, the Michelin Green Guide, even awarded one star to this road along Cheongnyangsan leading to Andong. Social distancing due to the COVID-19 pandemic continues. Although somewhat eased, it is still too early to be fully at ease. This is why we do not explicitly recommend you to "go find" National Route 35 in Bonghwa introduced today. However, when COVID-19 ends or when life in the city feels too harsh, we recommend visiting this place by car. Driving along old paths with few visitors or stopping by hidden mountain villages or remote cafes, you will feel your body being healed.

Bonghwa is surrounded by layers of mountains. Being blocked by mountains on all sides, it has long been considered a remote area. National Route 35 is the road leading to remote villages and Cheongnyangsan, which Toegye Yi Hwang also called Salted River (Sogeumgang). Moreover, the clear waters of the Nakdong River flow alongside the road.

Start the drive at Chunyang Station. The 25km route includes Beombawi Observatory, the Mysterious Road, Nakdong River Origin Park, Seonyugyo Bridge, and Cheongnyangsan.

Shortly after leaving Chunyang Station, the scenery unfolding before your eyes is extraordinary. The altitude gradually rises, and the mountains extend layer upon layer. The gently winding road twists into a zigzag mountain path.

First, Beombawi Observatory appears. A tiger sculpture stands on a cliff rock by the roadside. The view of the Nakdong River from here forms the shape of a mountain taeguk and water taeguk swirling down magnificently. The shape of the front mountain seen from the observatory is called "Galma Eumsu" (Thirsty Horse Drinking Water), meaning a thirsty horse coming down to drink water.

Far below, the Nakdong River makes a large bend and flows gracefully. Mist rises in every narrow and deep valley, causing the Nakdong River and the front mountain to appear and disappear repeatedly. When the wind blows, the mist dances and sways like a dance, curling its tail.

There is an interesting legend about Beombawi. During the reign of King Gojong of Joseon, a man named Songam Kang Young-dal went to Hanyang and on his way back, he bowed from afar to the tomb of his ancestor here. Suddenly, a tiger the size of a house appeared, and he caught the tiger with his bare hands using all his strength. Since then, this place has been called "Beombawi" (Tiger Rock).

After passing Beombawi Observatory, you reach the Mysterious Road. It looks like a downhill road but is actually uphill. When approaching from Beopjeon-myeon to Myeongho-myeon, it appears as an uphill road but is actually a downhill road. There are rest pavilions, restrooms, and parking facilities along the roadside for a short break.

Descending the mountain road, you soon reach Myeongho-myeon. Here is the "Nakdong River Origin Park." Among the 1,634 sources flowing into the Nakdong River, the tributary originating from Hwangji Pond in Taebaek meets Ungokcheon, marking the start of the main Nakdong River. It is also called "Inari Riverside" because two rivers (I and Nari) meet and there were two ferry crossings.

Passing through Myeongho-myeon, the road to the entrance of Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park runs along the riverside. It is straight and smooth without many bends.

After traveling alongside the Nakdong River for a while, you encounter Seonyugyo Bridge (Fairy Bridge). It is said to be a bridge where fairies play. Under the bridge, Baekryongdam Pond is deep, and trees with new shoots sprout beside the cliff, sparkling in the sunlight.

From under Seonyugyo Bridge to Gwanchang 1 Bridge, there is a walking path called "Yedeon-gil." It was created as part of the World Confucian Scholar Culture Park (Nakdong River District) project and continues all the way to Andong.

Passing several villages and bridges, the Cheongnyangsan ridge dominates the view on the left, and Manlisan Mountain suddenly appears close on the right. There is a must-visit place on the way to Cheongnyangsan: Gwanchang-ri Village. It is a remote village nestled on the slopes of Manlisan Mountain opposite Cheongnyangsan. The apple orchards climbing the mountain slopes are astonishing. The winding, steep mountain road leads to a precariously perched village on the cliffside, where there is a cafe with a great view.

As you climb the nearly vertical slope and pass through the orchard road, the road narrows to barely fit one car. It would be a disaster if a car came from the opposite direction.

At the end of the road, the pension-cafe "Orange Flower Scent Blown by the Wind" has a front yard designated by the Korea Tourism Organization as a "Green Spot Perfect for Photography." The proud back view of Cheongnyangsan with its solid figure is majestic. Across the Nakdong River, which looks slender compared to the mountain range, spring has fully settled in Gwanchang Village, which you have arduously passed through. The cafe's large glass windows beautifully frame this scenery like a large picture or screen. The window seat is known as the "King's Seat" passed down in the village and a "Lucky" spot that brings good fortune. Photos taken here posted on social media can easily get many "likes."

The cafe was originally a resting space for pension guests. When the owner is present, seasonal flower teas are served, but otherwise, it operates as an unmanned cafe. The fee is 5,000 KRW per person.

Leaving behind the beautiful scenery and the owner's flower tea filled with the scent of spring, descend the mountain road again and head toward Cheongnyangsan.

Beyond Cheongnyang Bridge, you can see the gate into the mountain. It feels as if the pure energy of Cheongnyangsan is seeping into the car. On the right riverside, delicate layered cliffs rise. This is Haksodae, where cranes have long been said to fly and nest. Cheongnyangsan is not large, with a circumference of only 100 ri (about 39 km), but it is compared to Sogeumgang because of its 12 rocky peaks over 800 meters above sea level connected like a painting.

If you visit Cheongnyangsan, also visit Dudeul Village, which lies beneath the clouds. It is the highest remote village along the Nakdong River near Cheongnyangsan. Early in the morning, the mist rising from every valley of Cheongnyangsan moistens the village and then releases it, creating a mystical scene.

Bonghwa = Text and photos by Cho Yong-jun, Travel Specialist jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

△ Getting There = From the Seoul metropolitan area, take the Yeongdong Expressway and Jungang Expressway, exit at Buk-Yeongju (Punggi) IC, go to Beopjeon-myeon Chunyang Station, and then take National Route 35.

△ Food = The representative dish is grilled pork over charcoal. Instead of oak charcoal, pine charcoal is used to grill the pork moderately, then pine needles are placed on top and grilled several more times to infuse the pine scent. There are pork charcoal grill restaurants operating around Bongseong-myeon. The original Yaksu Restaurant is famous for chicken baeksuk (boiled chicken) and chicken bulgogi (pictured). They captivate the taste buds with vinegar fermented from wild mountain grapes and gochujang (red chili paste).

△ Attractions = Cheongnyangsa Temple, Baekdudaegan National Arboretum, Chunyangmok Forest Cluster, Daksil Village, Cheongoksan Natural Recreation Forest, filming location of "The Way Home," Buncheon Station, and Seungbu Station, among others.