[Jo Yongjun's Travel Journey] The Barbed Wire Disappeared from Geojin Coastal Road... Short but Feels Long and Thrilling

Gangwon-do Goseong Contactless Journey - Ayajin - Songjiho - Geojin - Hwajinpo - Machajin - Myeongpa Coastal Road Drive

Recently, the barbed wire along the coastal road in Geojin has been removed. Although it is a short section, the feeling of driving along the coastal road while looking at the sea is long and thrilling.

Hwajinpo and Hwajinpo Beach as seen from Eungbong Observatory

Behind Daejin Lighthouse, the northernmost lighthouse in our country, the northern Haegumgang comes into view.

The coastal barbed wire fence in Goseong will be partially dismantled this year.

Goseong Beach showing a quiet scene due to the impact of COVID-19

Daejin Port

A landscape painting of Geojin coastal road where the barbed wire fence has disappeared

[Asia Economy, Travel Specialist Reporter Jo Yongjun] Due to the novel coronavirus infection (COVID-19), I have been struggling every week to decide on travel destinations. This is because social distancing is in full effect. Last week, I received a phone call from an acquaintance. It was news that the barbed wire fence along the coastal road in Geojin, Goseong, the northernmost part of Gangwon Province in South Korea, had been removed. The barbed wire that had long blocked the beautiful scenery of the East Coast had always been a sore sight, so hearing that it was gone was truly delightful. I immediately drove to Goseong. Using the removal of the Geojin coastal road barbed wire as an excuse, I planned to head north along the coast from Ayajin in the south of Goseong to the northernmost Myeongpa Beach, visiting famous spots along the way. This is a non-contact journey by car along the coast. I recommend that once COVID-19 passes, you take a drive along this route.

First, I start from Ayajin Beach. This place, with a soft, bow-shaped curve of white sand, has a unique atmosphere due to a rock on one side that is rounded smoothly. The beach forms a cozy curve, and the contrast between the wide white sand and the crystal-clear water is fantastic.

Although not well known to outsiders, this beach is a perfect starting point for a coastal drive in Goseong.

The coastal road along the Ayajin sea leads to Munam Port. Near Munam Port, there is Neungpadae, a coastal rock formation with strange shapes. Neungpadae is a massive group of rocks with large and small holes called 'tafoni,' which give a mysterious and diverse impression. A well-made walking trail is available for enjoying Neungpadae.

Passing Baekdo from Munam, you soon reach Songjiho Beach. The beach is so large and wide that it hosts a campground and various facilities. Although still recovering from last year's Goseong wildfire, the Songjiho sea is remarkably clear and clean. Crossing the road from the beach, there is Songjiho, a lagoon shaped by the traces of time.

Exiting the trail and climbing up to a pretty three-story observatory offers a splendid view of the lake. To the left, the Ulsanbawi Rock of Seoraksan Mountain forms a natural screen, and in front, a quaint pavilion sits charmingly by the lakeside.

Next, I head to Gonghyeonjin. Here, the Smutgae Rock connected to the northern breakwater is more famous than the beach itself. Known as Opbawi among people, it is a famous sunrise spot. The sunrise rising between the long stretches of rocky shore at Smutgae is well known among photographers.

Passing Gajin Beach and continuing north along the coastal road, you encounter the seaside cafe Square Route. This cafe is famous for its sunsets. Built as an exposed concrete structure on the site of an old raw fish restaurant, the cafe has a somewhat sophisticated feel. The cafe, overlooking a long white sand beach and the sea beyond the barbed wire fence, offers an impeccable view and atmosphere. The rooftop, styled as a rooftop bar, provides a romantic view at sunset.

After the cafe, passing Banam Beach, you soon reach Geojin Port. This is the reason for visiting the Goseong coastal road. The coastal road connecting the harbor to the sea has changed. Locals call this area Dwitjang Beach. The moment you enter the coast, you are surprised. The sea, which until recently was enclosed by barbed wire much taller than a person, is now open and refreshing. The scenery without the obstructing barbed wire feels somewhat awkward yet moving.

A military culture and tourism official said, "Starting with the Geojin coastal road, the removal of barbed wire fences around Goseong will continue this year." The recently removed barbed wire stretches about 1.6 km along the coastal road. Although a short section, the taste of the East Sea viewed while driving along it was long-lasting and unique. I parked my car in the spare space along the coastal road and gazed for a long time at the sea beyond the vanished barbed wire.

The biggest feature of Dwitjang Beach is that there is no sand. The entire coast is rocky, not sandy. The sea is so transparent that the bottom is clearly visible. Residents are busy harvesting seaweed such as dolmiyeok on the shallow rocky shore.

After passing Geojin, you reach Hwajinpo. Hwajinpo is so famous that it hardly needs explanation, but briefly, it is the largest lagoon on the East Coast with a circumference of 16 km. Thousands of migratory birds and swans fly over the vast reed fields, and the dense pine forest is outstanding. It is home to the former President Rhee Syngman, former Vice President Lee Ki-bung, and former North Korean leader Kim Il-sung's villas.

I introduce a place where you can step back a few steps from Hwajinpo and take in the views of the lake and sea at once. The destination is Eungbongsan. The peak is named with the character for 'hawk' because it resembles a hawk sitting. Driving along Hwajinpo by the lake, there is a side road on the right leading to the temple 'Geumgang Samsa.' Parking at the temple and following the trail behind it leads to the summit.

Although the elevation is only 122 meters, this height is enough to enjoy the magnificent views of Hwajinpo and the surrounding beach area. From the summit, on the left, you can see the deep blue Hwajinpo Lake, on the right, the jade-colored Hwajinpo Sea, and in the distance, the ridges of Geumgangsan Mountain approach your view.

At Daejin Port, the northernmost port in South Korea, there is the manned Daejin Lighthouse. Climbing the lighthouse offers a panoramic view of Daejin Port. On clear days, you can even see Haegumgang in the North. The lined-up boats nod to the waves in the morning sunlight, and seagulls fly leisurely among the docked fishing boats.

Continuing north past Daejin Port, you reach Machajin Beach, where the Geumgangsan Condo is located. The sea view from the condo rooms facing the sea is superb.

The road continuing north along the sea ends at Myeongpa Beach. The open northernmost beach is Myeongpa. This place is worth visiting just for its symbolism as the northernmost last beach. The beach is surrounded by double and triple layers of barbed wire fences, and warning signs are posted everywhere, creating a strict atmosphere. However, this barbed wire will soon be removed as well. We look forward to a beach that becomes one with nature.

If you have come this far, you cannot miss the Goseong Unification Observatory and the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Museum. However, due to COVID-19, access is completely restricted, so unfortunately, you have to turn back. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL), Haegumgang area, and the distant ridges of Geumgangsan are drawn before your eyes. The unseen northern landscape is suddenly missed anew.

Goseong (Gangwon Province) = Text and photos by Jo Yongjun, Travel Specialist Reporter jun21@

◇ Travel Notes

▲ Getting there = From the metropolitan area, use the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, exit at Yangyang Junction, and head toward Sokcho. When entering the Goseong boundary from Sokcho, the coastal road begins and continues through Ayajin, Songjiho, Geojin, and Hwajinpo. If you plan the route in reverse from northern Goseong, exit Donghongcheon IC on the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, pass through Inje, and cross Jinburyeong.