"The Day We Are Closest to Our Ancestors"... Why the Autumn Equinox Is a Public Holiday [Nichiyoil Nichibunka]

A Week Around the Equinoxes Is "Ohigan"
Day and Night Are Equal... The Closest Time Between This World and the Afterlife
A Tradition of Making Red Bean Rice Cakes Similar to Songpyeon

Did everyone have a good Chuseok holiday? Since it’s essentially the last weekend of the holiday, it feels even more precious.

When people think of Japan’s version of Chuseok, most recall “Obon,” which is observed on August 15 by the solar calendar. However, Japan also has a tradition of visiting ancestral graves around the same time as Korea’s lunar Chuseok. Unlike Obon, there is a lesser-known custom in Japan called “Ohigan.” This is also tied to the reason why the vernal and autumnal equinoxes are national holidays in Japan. On this final weekend of Chuseok, let me introduce Japan’s Ohigan culture.

The “Higan” in Ohigan is a Buddhist term meaning “the other shore.” The word originates from the Sanskrit “paramita,” which you may have heard as “baramil” in Korean Buddhism, referring to reaching the world of enlightenment. In Buddhism, our current world is called “Shigan” (this shore), while the world of enlightenment, which is free and liberated, is called “Higan” (the other shore). These two worlds are said to be separated by the Sando River. The time when these two worlds come closest is during the vernal and autumnal equinoxes, when day and night are of equal length. Because this is when the distance between this world and the afterlife is shortest, it is considered the best time to meet one’s ancestors.

People visiting ancestral graves on Ohigan. Nipponkodo.

In Japan, Ohigan is observed for a week, including the three days before and after the vernal and autumnal equinoxes. The equinox days themselves are designated as public holidays in Japan. This year, the autumn Ohigan was from September 20 to 26. This period is even closer to Korea’s Chuseok than Obon is.

Ohigan is an old custom that has been handed down since the Heian period (794-1185). The equinoxes not only have equal day and night, but also mark a temperate season that is neither hot nor cold, and the sun sets directly in the west. These factors made it an ideal time to honor Amitabha Buddha, who is believed to reside in the Western Pure Land. The Heian period was a time of frequent conflicts and power struggles among regional aristocrats. In this turbulent society, Ohigan gradually became a day for longing for the afterlife and honoring ancestors, according to its origin story.

So, how is Ohigan different from Obon? Obon is said to be the day when ancestors temporarily return to this world to visit their descendants. That is why people light fires and prepare ritual tables to guide their ancestors home. In short, Obon is an event for welcoming ancestors into the home. Historically, Obon was held on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month, but after Japan adopted the solar calendar in 1873, it was fixed to August 15. While Obon is the day when ancestors come to visit their descendants, Ohigan is when descendants themselves go to visit their ancestors at the most auspicious time. That is the main difference.

Making red bean rice cakes called 'Ohagi' that are usually eaten during Ohigan. Hasegawa Group.

During Ohigan, which occurs twice a year, it is customary to clean and organize the household Buddhist altar and visit ancestral graves. Just as Koreans offer songpyeon during Chuseok, the Japanese place and share a type of rice cake on the altar during this period-red bean rice cakes. These are round rice cakes covered with sweet red bean paste. Similar to Korea, red beans in Japan are believed to ward off evil spirits. In addition, sugar, which was once a precious commodity, is used to express gratitude to ancestors.

However, the name and appearance of these rice cakes differ depending on whether it is the vernal or autumnal equinox. The rice cake eaten during the spring Ohigan is called “Botamochi,” named after the peony flower (“botan” in Japanese) that blooms in spring. The rice cake for the autumn Ohigan is called “Ohagi,” named after the bush clover (“hagi” in Japanese) that blooms from July to October. It is fascinating that the rice cakes are named after seasonal flowers.

Although Buddhism has long been revered by the three East Asian countries, Ohigan is a unique custom found only in Japan. The names may differ-Chuseok, Obon, Seollal, Ohigan-but the tradition of remembering loved ones with family and friends seems to be universal.